Chick Growth Milestones & Care Adjustments

Week 1: Getting Settled

  • Milestones: Learning to eat, drink, and explore their brooder. Sleeping a lot but also active in short bursts.
  • Care: Keep them in a warm brooder at 90-95°F with a heat source. Ensure they have clean water with probiotics/electrolytes, starter feed, and baby chick grit if they are eating anything other than crumble (like tiny treats or greens).

Week 2-3: Feather Growth & Exploration

  • Milestones: Wing feathers developing; starting to flutter and hop.
  • Care: Lower brooder temp by ~5°F per week (so aim for 85-90°F in week 2, then 80-85°F in week 3).
  • Food & Water: Still on chick starter feed. You can introduce occasional soft treats (like scrambled eggs or finely chopped greens) with chick grit.

Week 4-5: Feathering Out & Curious Behavior

  • Milestones: Growing tail feathers, becoming more independent.
  • Care: Brooder temp around 75-80°F. If they’re in a warm area, they might not need supplemental heat during the day.
  • Food & Water: Continue chick starter feed. Offer fresh water daily.

Week 6-8: Transition to the Coop

  • Milestones: Almost fully feathered. Can regulate body temperature better.
  • Care: If nighttime temps are above 50°F, they can transition outside. Ensure their coop is predator-proof.
  • Food & Water: At 6 weeks, you can start phasing in grower feed if they’re not staying on starter until 8 weeks. (Grower feed has less protein than starter but supports steady growth.)

Week 8-16: Adolescence (“Pullets”)

  • Milestones: Combs & wattles begin developing. Some early egg-layers may start showing interest in nesting areas.
  • Care: They’re now fully adjusted to outdoor life and can free-range or explore a run.
  • Food & Water: Switch fully to grower feed. No layer feed yet—it has too much calcium for growing birds!

Week 16-20+: Preparing for Laying

  • Milestones: Hens may start squatting when touched (a sign eggs are coming soon).
  • Care: Provide a nest box with soft bedding and encourage them to check it out.
  • Food & Water: Switch to layer feed around 18-20 weeks, when they are close to laying. Introduce free-choice oyster shell for calcium.

Chick Vaccines & Medications

Common Vaccines & Medications for Chicks

  1. Marek’s Disease Vaccine
    • What It Prevents: Marek’s is a highly contagious and often fatal viral disease that causes tumors and paralysis in chickens.
    • When to Vaccinate: At hatch or within 24 hours for best protection, but you can still give it later if needed.
    • How to Administer:
      • It’s an injection (subcutaneous, under the skin, at the back of the neck).
      • Vaccine comes in a frozen vial that must be mixed and used quickly.
      • You’ll need sterile syringes and needles (often 0.5 mL per chick).
  2. Coccidiosis Prevention (Medicated Feed or Amprolium)
    • What It Prevents: A common parasite that causes diarrhea, weakness, and death in young chicks.
    • How to Prevent:
      • Medicated chick starter feed (contains amprolium) – Easiest way to protect them.
      • Amprolium (Corid) in water – If you’re using unmedicated feed, you can mix this into their drinking water if needed.
  3. Newcastle Disease & Infectious Bronchitis Vaccine(Optional but Recommended)
    • What It Prevents: Respiratory diseases that spread easily and cause coughing, sneezing, and egg production issues.
    • When to Vaccinate: Around 2 weeks old, with a booster later.
    • How to Administer: Given as eye drops, spray, or in drinking water.
  4. Fowl Pox Vaccine(Optional, if mosquitoes are common in your area)
    • What It Prevents: A virus spread by mosquitoes that causes wart-like lesions.
    • When to Vaccinate: At 4 weeks old.
    • How to Administer: A wing-web stab (poke a small needle into the wing web).

Where to Get Vaccines?

  • Local farm supply stores (some may carry Marek’s or Coccidiosis prevention).
  • Online hatchery suppliers (Meyer Hatchery, Stromberg’s, McMurray Hatchery).
  • Veterinarians who work with poultry (some carry vaccines or can order them).

General Care for Healthy Chicks

  • Heat: Keep the brooder at 95°F the first week, then decrease by 5°F each week.
  • Feed & Water: Provide clean, fresh water at all times.
  • Bedding: Pine shavings work well (avoid cedar).
  • Socialization: Handle them gently to get them used to you!

Best—and Worst—Chicken Breeds for Cold Climates

For Grand Rapids, MI, you’ll want cold-hardy breeds that can handle snowy winters and occasional hot summers. You’ll also want breeds that are predator-savvy since you’re in the woods. Here are some great options for your climate and setting:

Best Cold-Hardy, Predator-Savvy Chicken Breeds

Plymouth Rock (Barred Rock) 🖤⚪

  1. Hardy in cold & heat, lays 250+ brown eggs/year
  2. Smart, predator-aware, and friendly
  3. Dual-purpose (good for eggs & meat)

Australorp (Black Australorp)

    1. Super cold-hardy, lays 250-300 large brown eggs/year
    2. Calm, docile, and easy to handle
    3. Black feathers help absorb warmth in winter

    Wyandotte (Silver or Gold Laced) 🖤🟡⚪

      1. Very cold-hardy with a rose comb (less prone to frostbite)
      2. Lays 200-250 brown eggs/year
      3. Independent, predator-aware, and good foragers

      Orpington (Buff Orpington) 🟡

        1. Cold-hardy due to fluffy feathers, lays 200-280 brown eggs/year
        2. Very gentle and affectionate (great if you want friendly birds)
        3. A bit less predator-savvy, so they need a secure run

        Rhode Island Red ❤️

          1. Tough, predator-savvy, lays 250-300 brown eggs/year
          2. Hardy in all weather, strong forager
          3. Can be a little feisty but great for a mixed flock

          Dominique ⚫⚪

            1. Similar to Barred Rocks but with a rose comb (better for frostbite prevention)
            2. Great foragers, very predator-aware
            3. Lays 230-270 brown eggs/year

            Easter Egger 🥚 (Colorful Egg Layers!)

              1. Super hardy, lays 200-250 blue/green eggs per year
              2. Friendly and curious, good for beginners
              3. Predator-aware and good at hiding

              Breeds to Avoid for Your Area

              🚫 Leghorns – Great layers but have big combs that get frostbite easily.
              🚫 Silkies – Too small and fluffy; they don’t handle cold or predators well.
              🚫 Polish – Their head crests block vision, making them easy predator targets.

              Would you like a mix of breeds or are you leaning toward one type? If you want variety, a mix of Wyandottes, Barred Rocks, and Easter Eggers would give you a beautiful, diverse flock with great egg production!