Transferring data from an old phone to a new iPhone is pretty straightforward, and Apple provides a few different methods to make it easy.
Here are the best ways to transfer data:
1. Using Quick Start (Best Method for iPhone-to-iPhone Transfer)
What you need: Both old and new iPhones, and both should be running iOS 11 or later.
Steps:
Turn on your new iPhone and place it near your old iPhone.
The Quick Start screen will appear on your old iPhone, prompting you to use your Apple ID for the setup.
Scan the animation on your new iPhone with the old iPhone (using the camera).
Follow the prompts to transfer your data (this can include apps, photos, settings, etc.). You can transfer everything from your old device, including apps and media.
2. Using iCloud Backup
What you need: A stable Wi-Fi connection and enough iCloud storage space.
Steps:
On your old iPhone, go to Settings > [your name] > iCloud > iCloud Backup and tap Back Up Now to make sure your latest data is saved.
When setting up your new iPhone, choose Restore from iCloud Backup during the setup process.
Sign in to your Apple ID, choose the most recent backup, and let the device restore.
3. Using iTunes or Finder (for Older macOS or Windows Users)
What you need: A Mac or Windows computer with the latest version of iTunes (for macOS Mojave or earlier) or Finder (for macOS Catalina and later).
Steps:
Connect your old iPhone to the computer and open iTunes (or Finder for macOS Catalina and later).
Select your iPhone, and then click Back Up Now under the Backups section.
Once the backup is complete, connect your new iPhone to the same computer.
When prompted, choose Restore from Backup and select the most recent backup you made from your old device.
4. Using a Cable (iPhone-to-iPhone Transfer via Lightning-to-USB Cable)
What you need: A Lightning-to-USB cable to connect your old iPhone to your new iPhone.
Steps:
Connect your old iPhone to your new iPhone using the appropriate cable.
When the Quick Start screen appears, follow the prompts to transfer your data directly.
5. Transfer from Android to iPhone (Using Move to iOS App)
What you need: Your old Android phone, the new iPhone, and the Move to iOS app installed on your Android device.
Steps:
On your Android phone, download and open the Move to iOS app from the Google Play Store.
On your new iPhone, during the setup process, select Move Data from Android.
Follow the on-screen instructions to connect the devices and transfer your data (contacts, messages, photos, etc.).
Tip: Make sure both phones are fully charged, or keep them plugged into power sources during the transfer to avoid interruptions.
Transfer from Android to iPhone using the Move to iOS App:
What you’ll need:
Both phones: Your dad’s Android phone and the new iPhone.
Wi-Fi connection: Both phones need to be connected to the same Wi-Fi network during the transfer.
The Move to iOS app: This app needs to be installed on the Android phone.
Steps to transfer:
Install the Move to iOS app on your dad’s Android phone:
Go to the Google Play Store on the Android device.
Search for Move to iOS and install the app.
Set up the new iPhone:
Start setting up the new iPhone as usual.
When you reach the Apps & Data screen during the setup process, select Move Data from Android.
Connect the devices:
Open the Move to iOS app on the Android phone.
Tap Next, and follow the instructions.
On the iPhone, you’ll see a 6-10 digit code appear on the screen.
Enter that code into the Android phone.
Transfer data:
The Android phone will connect to the iPhone over Wi-Fi.
You’ll be asked to select which types of data to transfer (e.g., contacts, message history, photos, videos, web bookmarks, and apps that are available on the App Store).
Once selected, tap Next and the data transfer will begin. The time it takes will depend on the amount of data being transferred.
Finish setup:
Once the transfer is complete, tap Done on the Android phone.
On the iPhone, finish setting up the rest of the device, including logging into your dad’s Apple ID and setting preferences.
Any apps that were transferred will need to be installed from the App Store (the ones that aren’t automatically available on iOS).
Note:
WhatsApp messages and other apps that don’t transfer via the Move to iOS app might need separate transfers or manual setups.
If there are specific apps on the Android phone that are not available on iOS, you’ll need to find alternatives or transfer any relevant data manually.
This method works well for transferring most types of data and is relatively easy.
A gutter system for rainwater collection on a chicken coop is definitely doable. There are a few ways to approach it, depending on your material choice for the roof.
Here are a few good starting points:
DIY PVC Gutter System – If you want something lightweight and easy to modify, PVC pipe split in half lengthwise can work as a small-scale gutter. There are quite a few tutorials online for using heat to shape PVC into a functional gutter.
Metal or Vinyl Gutters – You can use standard aluminum or vinyl gutters from a hardware store and cut them to size. The challenge will be ensuring proper slope and securing them to the structure.
Corrugated Roof Water Collection – If you go with galvanized steel sheets, you can make a simple gutter using another piece of metal bent into a U-shape or attach a pre-made gutter along the lower edge. A lot of homesteaders have shared methods on YouTube for rainwater collection from corrugated metal roofing.
Rainwater Diverter & Barrel Setup – To prevent overflow, you can add a simple downspout diverter to redirect excess water once the barrel is full.
Let me do a quick search for some solid tutorials or plans. One sec! 👍
That sounds like a fantastic project! Setting up a gutter system to channel rainwater from your chicken coop’s roof into a rain barrel is both eco-friendly and practical. Here’s how you can approach this:
1. Choosing the Roof Material:
Translucent Vinyl Roofing: This material is lightweight and allows natural light into the coop. It’s relatively easy to work with and can be cut to size with standard tools.
Galvanized Steel Sheets: Durable and long-lasting, galvanized steel provides excellent protection against the elements. However, it requires proper tools for cutting and handling due to its weight and rigidity.
2. Installing the Gutter System:
Regardless of the roofing material you choose, installing a gutter system involves similar steps:
Measure and Plan: Determine the length of the roof edge where the gutter will be installed. Plan for a slight slope (about 1/2 inch for every 10 feet) towards the downspout to ensure proper water flow.
Select Gutter Material: Vinyl gutters are lightweight and easy to install, making them suitable for DIY projects. Aluminum gutters are also a good option due to their durability and resistance to rust.
Install Gutter Hangers: Attach gutter hangers along the fascia board of the roof, spacing them about 24 inches apart. Ensure they follow the planned slope.
Attach the Gutter: Cut the gutter to the required length and secure it onto the hangers. Seal any joints to prevent leaks.
Install the Downspout: Attach a downspout to the gutter’s endpoint, directing it towards your rain barrel. Use elbows as needed to navigate the downspout’s path.
For a visual guide on installing gutters on a metal roof, you might find this video helpful:
3. Setting Up the Rain Barrel:
Positioning: Place the rain barrel on a stable, elevated platform near the downspout to facilitate water flow and access.
Connecting the Downspout: Direct the downspout into the top of the rain barrel. Consider installing a downspout diverter to channel water into the barrel and redirect overflow away from the coop.
Overflow Management: Ensure the rain barrel has an overflow outlet. Attach a hose to this outlet to direct excess water away from the coop, preventing potential flooding.
For detailed instructions on installing a rain barrel, refer to this guide:
Water Quality: Regularly clean the gutter and rain barrel to prevent debris buildup, which can affect water quality.
Safety: Secure the rain barrel to prevent tipping, especially if you have children or animals around.
Winter Preparation: In colder climates, consider disconnecting the rain barrel during winter to prevent freezing and potential damage.
By following these steps, you’ll create an efficient rainwater collection system for your chicken coop, promoting sustainability and providing a convenient water source for your flock.
To ensure the peak of your plexiglass-covered chicken run is watertight, here are a few good options:
1. Use a Ridge Cap
A polycarbonate or metal ridge cap is the best option for sealing the peak. These are designed to bridge the gap between sloped panels and prevent leaks. You can find them in clear or tinted polycarbonate to match your plexiglass.
Overlap the ridge cap onto both sides of the plexiglass panels.
Use butyl tape or silicone sealant along the edges where the ridge cap meets the panels.
Secure it with screws, using rubber washer roofing screws to prevent leaks.
2. Overlapping the Plexiglass Panels
If a ridge cap isn’t an option, you can slightly overlap the plexiglass sheets at the peak:
Cut the top edges of the panels at an angle to meet snugly.
Allow for a 2–3″ overlap between panels.
Apply clear silicone sealant between the overlapping edges.
Secure with polycarbonate fasteners to avoid cracking.
3. H-Channel or U-Channel Connectors
For a cleaner look, you can use H-channel or U-channel connectors (typically made of polycarbonate or aluminum) to bridge the gap. These:
Provide structural support.
Prevent water seepage when used with silicone sealant inside the channel.
Allow for slight movement due to temperature changes.
4. Flashing with Waterproof Tape
If you’re using a wooden ridge beam under the peak, you can:
Use EPDM or butyl waterproof tape along the joints for extra sealing.
Attach flashing (aluminum or polycarbonate) over the peak.
Diatomaceous Earth (Food Grade) – Add a small amount (about 1 cup per 5 gallons of the mix). This helps to control parasites like mites and lice, but it should be used sparingly because too much can irritate their respiratory system.
Dirt – Start with about 2-3 inches of dry, loose dirt or soil as the base. This provides the primary surface for the chickens to dig into.
Sand – Add a layer of fine, dry sand (about 1-2 inches). Sand helps to absorb moisture, dries out the dust bath, and makes it easy for chickens to fluff their feathers.
Wood Ash – Add about 1-2 cups of wood ash for every 5 gallons of the dust bath mix. Wood ash helps with keeping the bath dry and also has natural pest-repelling properties.
Dried Herbs – A little something extra for the girls to enjoy 🙂
Here’s a summary of everything you need to care for baby chicks so they grow up happy and healthy.
Essential Supplies for Raising Baby Chicks
Brooder Box – A safe, enclosed space to keep chicks warm. A large plastic tote, stock tank, or wooden box lined with something easy to clean works well.
Heat Source – Chicks need a consistent heat source.
Best option: A heat plate brooder (safer, mimics a mother hen).
Other option: A heat lamp (use a red bulb to reduce stress and avoid overheating).
Temperature:
First week: 95°F
Lower by 5°F each week until they are fully feathered (~6 weeks).
Bedding – Pine shavings are best (not cedar—it’s toxic). Paper towels can be used for the first few days to help them learn to eat. Avoid slippery surfaces like newspaper.
Feeder & Chick Starter Feed –
Use chick starter feed (medicated or non-medicated depending on if you vaccinate for coccidiosis).
Keep feed available at all times.
Waterer & Fresh Water –
Use a shallow chick waterer to prevent drowning.
Add clean marbles or pebbles to the dish for the first week to keep them safe.
Change water daily to avoid contamination.
Electrolytes & Probiotics – Helpful for the first few days to prevent stress and dehydration.
Grit (optional, but helpful if giving treats) – Chicks don’t need grit if only eating starter ,feed, but they do if you give them anything else.
For a safe and effective brooder heater, a heat plate or a ceramic heat emitter are both excellent choices. Here’s a breakdown of options you can consider:
1. Brooder Heat Plate (Recommended for Safety and Efficiency)
A heat plate mimics the warmth of a mother hen, offering a more natural heat source without the fire risk of a heat lamp. They are typically adjustable to different heights as the chicks grow.
Brinsea EcoGlow 20 Brooder
Pros: Safe, energy-efficient, adjustable height, and perfect for small to medium-sized flocks (up to 20 chicks).
Cons: Higher initial cost, but a solid investment for multiple brooder setups over time.
Premier 1 Supplies Brooder Heat Plate
Pros: Adjustable, energy-efficient, and provides a natural heat source, similar to a mother hen.
Cons: Can only be used in a safe, enclosed brooder area (like your kiddie pool setup).
2. Ceramic Heat Emitter (If You Prefer a Non-Lighting Heat Source)
Ceramic heat emitters provide heat without light, which can help prevent chicks from getting overly stressed by bright lights.
Zoo Med ReptiTherm Ceramic Heat Emitter
Pros: Provides steady, non-light heat, easy to mount in a brooder, safe for long-term use.
Cons: Requires a heat lamp fixture and a thermostat to control the temperature.
3. Infrared Heat Lamp (If You Prefer a Light-Based Heat Source)
While heat lamps can work, they come with more safety risks, especially if knocked over or improperly secured. If you decide to go with one, consider a red or amber bulb to avoid startling the chicks with harsh light.
Mighty Nest LED Heat Lamp
Pros: Low wattage LED, safer than traditional incandescent lamps.
Cons: It may not heat as efficiently as heat plates, so ensure the temperature stays stable.
General Tips:
Thermometers: Use a thermometer to keep track of the temperature in the brooder. The ideal temperature starts at around 95°F in the first week, and you can decrease it by about 5°F each week until they’re fully feathered (around 6-8 weeks).
Safety: No matter the heat source, make sure everything is secure to prevent fire hazards. For heat lamps, use a clamp or guard to secure the lamp in place.
Given your cozy porch setup, I’d recommend going with a heat plate or ceramic emitter for the safest, most consistent heat without the worry of fires.
Daily Care for Baby Chicks
Temperature Check: If chicks huddle together under the heat source, they’re too cold. If they spread far away, it’s too hot. If they move around happily, it’s just right.
Food & Water: Make sure they always have fresh feed and water.
Bedding Maintenance: Spot-clean daily and do a full bedding change as needed.
Socialization: Handle them gently every day so they get used to you. Sitting quietly near the brooder and letting them approach your hand helps build trust.
Health Checks: Look for signs of pasty butt (dried poop blocking the vent). If you see it, gently clean with a warm, damp cloth to prevent health issues.
Hatchery & Farm Store Recommendations
If you decide to order chicks, here are some good sources that ship to Michigan:
1. Meyer Hatchery (Ohio)
One of the best hatcheries in the Midwest—great for cold-hardy breeds.
Offers small orders (even just 3 chicks), which is great for backyard flocks.
Has a wide selection, including Easter Eggers, Buff Orpingtons, and Plymouth Rocks.
4. Local Farm Stores (Tractor Supply, Rural King, Family Farm & Home)
Many stores start carrying chicks in late February or March.
Check breed availability early—they often sell out fast!
Store chicks may be a little more stressed from travel, so check for pasty butt when selecting.
Great Cold-Hardy Breeds for a Mixed Flock in Michigan
Since you want good layers that can handle Michigan winters, here are some great options that also tend to be friendly and easygoing:
Buff Orpingtons – Super sweet, great layers, and very cold-hardy.
Plymouth Rocks (Barred or White) – Reliable layers with fun personalities.
Easter Eggers – Lay blue, green, or even pinkish eggs—fun variety!
Australorps – Black, glossy birds with great egg production and gentle temperaments.
Speckled Sussex – Friendly, curious, and beautiful feather patterning.
Wyandottes (Silver or Gold Laced) – Cold-hardy, gorgeous, and great layers.
Brahmas – Big, fluffy birds with feathered feet; very cold-resistant.
All of these breeds should get along well, especially if they’re raised together from chicks. If you get them from your friend, you might get a surprise mix depending on what breeds her rooster has been mingling with!
ChatGPT said:
Got it! That means you’ll want sexed pullets (female chicks) to avoid ending up with an unexpected rooster. If you’re getting chicks from your friend, you might want to ask if she knows how to sex them or if she has older pullets available—otherwise, with straight-run chicks, there’s always a chance of getting a rooster or two.
If you do end up with a surprise roo, you’ll have some time before he starts crowing (usually around 12-16 weeks). But since you can’t keep one, it might be good to have a plan for rehoming, just in case!
Chick Nursery Setup
We have a cozy four-season porch. I was planning on keeping them in an a protected cat “play pen” and placing a 4’ wide “kiddie pool” inside into which I’ll place the bedding, brooder heater, food and water, etc.
ChatGPT said:
That sounds like an ideal setup! The four-season porch will give them a safe, warm space with some natural light, and the cat playpen will add extra protection. A kiddie pool is a great idea—it’s spacious and easy to clean.
A Few Tips for Your Setup:
Draft Protection: Since your porch might be a bit cooler than indoors, you might want to add a wind-block (like cardboard or foam board) around the sides of the playpen to keep drafts out.
Brooder Heater Placement: If using a heat plate, make sure it has room for chicks to move in and out freely. If using a heat lamp, clamp it securely and double-check the height to maintain the right temp.
Escape Prevention: As they grow, chicks will start testing their wings by about 2-3 weeks old. A mesh cover (or hardware cloth) over the top will keep them from flying out of the pool.
Easy Cleaning: Lining the bottom with puppy pads under the bedding can make cleanup easier. Spot-clean daily to keep things dry and reduce odor.
ChatGPT said:
That sounds like a perfect number—small enough to manage easily but still giving them a little flock dynamic! Plus, with a cozy brooder setup, they’ll stay warm and social without overcrowding.
Since you’ll only have 3-4, you might want to aim for docile, friendly breeds that will integrate well together. If you’re getting them from a hatchery or farm store, you can probably choose exactly which ones you want. But if you’re getting them from your friend, you might get some fun surprise genetics!
ChatGPT said:
That’s perfect! Handling them daily from a young age will make a huge difference in how friendly and social they become.
Tips for Raising Extra-Friendly Chicks:
Hand-Feeding Treats: Once they’re a few days old, try offering small treats like scrambled eggs or finely crushed mealworms from your hand—they’ll start associating you with good things!
Talking to Them: Chicks get used to voices quickly. Talking softly while feeding or cleaning helps them recognize you as safe.
Slow Movements: Move gently when reaching into the brooder so they don’t get startled.
Lap Time: Once they’re comfortable, let them perch on your hand or sit with them in your lap. They’ll start seeking you out for warmth and comfort.
Finger Perching: Encourage them to hop onto your finger/hand by placing it in front of them—this builds trust and makes future handling easier.
By the time they move to the coop, they’ll likely follow you around and come running when they see you!
There are a few key medications and vaccinations that are commonly recommended for chickens to ensure they stay strong and disease-free.
Essential Vaccinations for Chicks:
Marek’s Disease Vaccine
When: Given at the hatchery (usually day 1 for chicks) or within the first week if you’re raising them yourself.
Why: Marek’s Disease is a viral disease that affects chickens’ nervous systems. Vaccination is highly recommended to prevent it, as it’s easily spread.
Coccidiosis Vaccine (Coccivac)
When: Typically given at day 1 (or within the first few days after hatching).
Why: Coccidiosis is a common parasitic infection that can cause digestive distress. Vaccinating against it helps protect your chicks as their immune systems develop.
Newcastle Disease and Infectious Bronchitis
When: Some hatcheries provide a combination vaccine for these diseases. Otherwise, the vaccine is given later, around 6-8 weeks, if needed.
Why: These are viral respiratory diseases that can spread rapidly among flocks, causing high mortality in young birds.
Other Health Considerations:
Deworming:
When: Chickens are usually dewormed at around 8 weeks and then every 6 months or as needed, based on local parasite risks.
Why: Worms can cause weight loss, lethargy, and digestive issues in chickens. Common dewormers include Ivermectin or Fenbendazole, but always check with your vet for the best option for your area.
Feather Mites or Lice Treatment:
When: If you notice signs of feather mites or lice (like scratching or visible bugs), treat your chickens with a poultry dust or an insecticidal spray that’s safe for birds.
Why: External parasites can cause discomfort, skin irritation, and even anemia in severe cases. Regular monitoring and cleaning of the coop can help prevent infestations.
Basic Care Tips:
Clean Water: Make sure they always have access to fresh, clean water to help with digestion and overall health.
Good Nutrition: A high-quality chick starter feed helps them grow strong and builds immunity to infections. Once they’re older, you can switch to layer feed with added calcium.
Monitoring: Keep an eye out for signs of illness (lethargy, changes in egg production, diarrhea) and seek vet advice if needed.
You can order both vaccines and dewormers online, but it’s important to make sure you’re getting them from reputable sources that specialize in poultry care. Here are some places where you can find what you need:
For Vaccines:
Meyer Hatchery
They offer various vaccines like the Marek’s Disease vaccine and Coccivac, which can be shipped directly to you when you order chicks or separately.
Ideal Poultry
This site provides poultry vaccinations, including the Marek’s and Coccidia vaccines, for both chicks and adult chickens.
Tractor Supply Co.
You can find poultry vaccines in-store or online, including common ones like Marek’s and Newcastle Disease.
First State Veterinary Supply
Specializes in veterinary supplies and vaccines, including poultry products.
For Dewormers:
Farm & Fleet
They offer various dewormers, including Ivermectin and Fenbendazole, for poultry.
The Chicken Chick’s Online Store
You can find a range of poultry supplies, including natural deworming options.
Amazon
A wide selection of poultry dewormers, though be sure to check reviews and ensure the product is safe for chickens.
A Few Things to Keep in Mind:
Consult with a vet if you’re unsure which specific vaccines or dewormers your chickens need based on your region.
Shipping Restrictions: Some states may have restrictions on shipping live vaccines or certain medications, so it’s always a good idea to check local regulations.
If the gas in the burner is moving fast enough, the gas can’t burn down inside the burner and must burn on top of the burner where it should. If it’s moving too slowly (as it is when the gas is shut off) there is a tendency for the gas to burn down inside the burner tube, causing the extinction pop.
So you probably need to lool for ways to increase the gas flow through the burner a bit — by checking to make sure you have a properly sized burner orifice, proper manifold gas pressure and a properly adjusted and clean primary air shutter.
This is not generally a hazard —just an annoyance.
If your gas burner doesn’t immediately turn off when you switch it off and then “explodes,” it likely means there’s a buildup of gas around the burner due to a faulty valve or a clogged burner port, causing a sudden ignition when enough gas accumulates and finds an ignition source, which could be a spark from the igniter or even just a nearby flame; this is a serious safety concern and you should immediately turn off the gas supply to your stove and call a professional appliance repair technician to diagnose and fix the issue.
Possible reasons for this problem:
Faulty burner valve:The valve might not be closing completely, allowing gas to continue leaking even when the knob is turned off.
Clogged burner ports:Grease or debris can build up in the burner holes, disrupting the gas flow and causing uneven burning or delayed ignition.
Damaged flame spreader:The metal plate distributing the flame could be damaged, causing gas to escape unevenly.
Faulty thermocouple:This safety device, which keeps the gas valve open when a flame is present, might be malfunctioning, allowing gas to continue flowing even when the flame is extinguished.
What to do:
Turn off the gas supply:Immediately locate the gas shut-off valve under your stove or near your gas line and turn it off.
Do not attempt to light the burner:Do not try to light the burner yourself as this could worsen the situation.
Ventilate the area:Open windows and doors to air out the kitchen.
Call a professional:Contact a licensed appliance repair technician to diagnose and fix the problem.
Important safety points to remember:
Never ignore gas leaks: If you smell gas, evacuate your home immediately and call the gas company.
Regular maintenance: Clean your stovetop regularly to prevent buildup of grease and food debris on the burner.
Inspect burner components: Check the burner ports for clogs and ensure the flame spreader is properly seated.
