Milestones: Learning to eat, drink, and explore their brooder. Sleeping a lot but also active in short bursts.
Care: Keep them in a warm brooder at 90-95°F with a heat source. Ensure they have clean water with probiotics/electrolytes, starter feed, and baby chick grit if they are eating anything other than crumble (like tiny treats or greens).
Week 2-3: Feather Growth & Exploration
Milestones: Wing feathers developing; starting to flutter and hop.
Care:Lower brooder temp by ~5°F per week (so aim for 85-90°F in week 2, then 80-85°F in week 3).
Food & Water: Still on chick starter feed. You can introduce occasional soft treats (like scrambled eggs or finely chopped greens) with chick grit.
Week 4-5: Feathering Out & Curious Behavior
Milestones: Growing tail feathers, becoming more independent.
Care:Brooder temp around 75-80°F. If they’re in a warm area, they might not need supplemental heat during the day.
Milestones: Almost fully feathered. Can regulate body temperature better.
Care: If nighttime temps are above 50°F, they can transition outside. Ensure their coop is predator-proof.
Food & Water: At 6 weeks, you can start phasing in grower feed if they’re not staying on starter until 8 weeks. (Grower feed has less protein than starter but supports steady growth.)
Week 8-16: Adolescence (“Pullets”)
Milestones: Combs & wattles begin developing. Some early egg-layers may start showing interest in nesting areas.
Care: They’re now fully adjusted to outdoor life and can free-range or explore a run.
Food & Water: Switch fully to grower feed. No layer feed yet—it has too much calcium for growing birds!
Week 16-20+: Preparing for Laying
Milestones: Hens may start squatting when touched (a sign eggs are coming soon).
Care: Provide a nest box with soft bedding and encourage them to check it out.
Food & Water:Switch to layer feed around 18-20 weeks, when they are close to laying. Introduce free-choice oyster shell for calcium.
For Grand Rapids, MI, you’ll want cold-hardy breeds that can handle snowy winters and occasional hot summers. You’ll also want breeds that are predator-savvy since you’re in the woods. Here are some great options for your climate and setting:
Best Cold-Hardy, Predator-Savvy Chicken Breeds
Plymouth Rock (Barred Rock) 🖤⚪
Hardy in cold & heat, lays 250+ brown eggs/year
Smart, predator-aware, and friendly
Dual-purpose (good for eggs & meat)
Australorp (Black Australorp)
Super cold-hardy, lays 250-300 large brown eggs/year
Calm, docile, and easy to handle
Black feathers help absorb warmth in winter
Wyandotte (Silver or Gold Laced) 🖤🟡⚪
Very cold-hardy with a rose comb (less prone to frostbite)
Lays 200-250 brown eggs/year
Independent, predator-aware, and good foragers
Orpington (Buff Orpington) 🟡
Cold-hardy due to fluffy feathers, lays 200-280 brown eggs/year
Very gentle and affectionate (great if you want friendly birds)
A bit less predator-savvy, so they need a secure run
Rhode Island Red ❤️
Tough, predator-savvy, lays 250-300 brown eggs/year
Hardy in all weather, strong forager
Can be a little feisty but great for a mixed flock
Dominique ⚫⚪
Similar to Barred Rocks but with a rose comb (better for frostbite prevention)
Great foragers, very predator-aware
Lays 230-270 brown eggs/year
Easter Egger 🥚 (Colorful Egg Layers!)
Super hardy, lays 200-250 blue/green eggs per year
Friendly and curious, good for beginners
Predator-aware and good at hiding
Breeds to Avoid for Your Area
🚫 Leghorns – Great layers but have big combs that get frostbite easily. 🚫 Silkies – Too small and fluffy; they don’t handle cold or predators well. 🚫 Polish – Their head crests block vision, making them easy predator targets.
Would you like a mix of breeds or are you leaning toward one type? If you want variety, a mix of Wyandottes, Barred Rocks, and Easter Eggers would give you a beautiful, diverse flock with great egg production!