It’s important to keep our aquariums within a certain temperature range to make sure the fish and other aquatic creatures we keep are happy and healthy. Too high or too low, and our aquatic pets will suffer. The temperature range that’s best for each creature depends on what part of the world they’re native to. Tropical fish, for example, do best between 75° and 80°F, goldfish and other “cold-water” species prefer temperatures below 70°F, and temperate fish can be found in habitats that overlap tropical and cold-water realms.

Fish are cold-blooded – aka ectothermic or poikilothermic – animals, meaning they cannot control their body temperature. Instead, they rely on the temperature of their environment to regulate their metabolisms and activity levels. When it’s too cold, they’re less active, their appetite is reduced and their immune systems are compromised, making them more susceptible to disease.

When it’s too warm, their metabolisms and breathing speed up, and they use more oxygen. The problem is, as water warms up it holds less oxygen, which further stresses the fish. Once again, they become more susceptible to disease, and in extreme cases, they can experience organ damage or even suffocate. Making matters worse, above 90°F, the beneficial bacteria that maintain balance in an aquarium begin to die, creating the potential for dangerous ammonia and nitrite spikes.

In the Wild

Water temperature in nature isn’t always constant. In fact, it can fluctuate quite a bit. Some days are sunny, some are cloudy. There may be seasonal changes as you get further away from the equator. Sometimes it rains, which can cool things down considerably. The water near the surface is usually quite a bit warmer than just a few feet below. And what happens when the sun goes down at night?

There are two major differences between natural habitats and our aquariums when it comes to temperature. First, fish in the wild can usually move to a more desirable spot if they don’t like the temperature. And second, temperature changes tend to occur gradually in nature due to the massive volumes of water involved, so fish have time to adapt, or move. Not so in an aquarium.

In the Aquarium

Unlike nature, where water temperature can vary in different micro-habitats, the temperature in an aquarium tends to be uniform throughout the tank. Aquarium fish can’t move from a less favorable spot to one that’s more comfortable if the temperature is outside their preferred range. In addition, temperature changes are often more extreme and happen much more rapidly in an aquarium, giving our fish less time to adapt.

Fish that are kept at the wrong temperature long-term may not grow as large, their colors may be muted, they may be less inclined to breed, and they may not live as long. A sudden drop in temperature is often linked to the onset of Ick and other parasite outbreaks.

Maintaining Proper Temperature

Now that we understand how important maintaining proper water temperature is for our fish, let’s look at how to achieve it:

Avoid placing your aquarium near sunny windows, exterior doorways, heating and air conditioning vents, fireplaces and drafty areas that can affect water temperature.
Choose a quality heater that is designed for your tank size. (Large aquariums may require more than one heater.) Use the Aqueon Heater Guide to select the right size heater for your aquarium.
Make sure there is adequate circulation around your heater to ensure even heat distribution. (This will also prolong the life of the heater.)
Install an accurate thermometer and check it regularly to make sure your heater is maintaining the right temperature.
When performing water exchanges, match the temperature of replacement water as closely as possible to your aquarium.

Heating an aquarium is relatively straight-forward, but what happens when hot weather makes your aquarium too warm? Dialing the A/C down a few notches can be expensive, and what if you don’t have air conditioning? An easy solution is to open the tank lid and direct a fan across the water surface to create evaporative cooling. (Lower the water level slightly to prevent fish from jumping out.) Aquariums with cold-water fish or sensitive corals may require a chiller. For additional tips on cooling your aquarium, visit How to Keep Your Aquarium Cool in Summer Heat.

Mixing Different Fish

When stocking your aquarium, choose fish whose preferred temperature ranges match the temperature of your tank. Things can get a little tricky, however, when the upper limit of one species coincides with the lower limit of another. Trying to find a happy middle ground may stress both fish because one is always a little cold, and the other is a little warm. While they may tolerate the situation, neither of them will thrive. Always set your heater for the middle of your fishes’ preferred temperature range and choose fish that share the same temperature requirements.

Maintaining a stable temperature that matches your fishes’ needs isn’t difficult, and your fish will thank you for it!

Source: https://www.aqueon.com/

February 3, 2024February 3, 2024

How to Cycle a New Tank

By far the most tedious aspect of owning an aquarium is the initial setup. This involves setting up the pumps, filters, and decorations before adding appropriately filtered water. Once the tank’s components are put in place, the longest of setup processes, cycling, is ready to begin. Aquarium cycling is often overlooked by beginners who wish to see their tank alive, but it is a crucial step in creating an environment for happy, long-living fish. Below you can find information on what cycling is, why it is important, and how to cycle your aquarium.

What is aquarium cycling?

Aquarium cycling is the process of creating a biologically safe environment for fish in a new tank. It involves introducing nitrifying bacteria into the aquarium to regulate the nitrogen cycle. These bacteria curb the effects of ammonia buildup caused by the breaking down of fish waste. To complete the nitrogen cycle, ammonia must be converted to nitrite, and the nitrite must be converted to nitrate.

Why do aquariums need to be cycled?

Before fish are introduced into the environment, nitrifying bacteria must spread themselves across the aquarium’s biological filters to handle the volume of ammonia produced by the fish. If fish are introduced to the tank too quickly or if too many fish are introduced at once, the biofilters will not be able to keep up with the amount of ammonia produced by the fish. Even after cycling an aquarium properly, it is best to introduce your fish one at a time to ensure the tank is biologically prepared for more fish.

If you do not cycle your aquarium, the nitrogen cycle will still occur, but your fish will likely be harmed in the process. The effects of built-up toxins in a new aquarium contribute to what is known as “New Tank Syndrome.” Species of fish that are not hardy are more prone to symptoms of ammonia exposure and require a cycled aquarium to live healthy lives.

How long does an aquarium take to cycle?

Aquariums generally take four to eight weeks to cycle. Factors such as the size of the tank and the water’s pH and temperature can affect how long cycling takes. To prevent the cycling process from taking longer than necessary, closely monitor the temperature and pH of your aquarium’s water. The pH should remain between 7.0 and 7.8, while the temperature should maintain a range of 83°F to 87°F. Not only does this expedite the tank’s cycling, but it will also ensure the stability of the environment the fish will live in. You should also test the tank’s ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels every one to two days when cycling your aquarium. If the aquarium is cycling properly, you will first notice a drop in ammonia and a significant spike in nitrites. Once the nitrite levels are high enough, nitrate-producing bacteria will begin populating the tank. Once these bacteria populate the tank, nitrite levels will fall. Once the ammonia and nitrite levels reach zero and nitrates are being produced, the cycle is complete.

What do I need to cycle an aquarium?

Before cycling an aquarium, ensure you have the following items available:

Fish food
Aquarium test kit
All necessary aquarium components (pumps, filters, substrate)
A quality water filter (preferably reverse osmosis)

An aquarium cannot be cycled until it is equipped with all of the components it requires to house the fish. Certain water contaminants, such as chlorine and chloramine, affect the nitrogen cycle and the water’s PH, so a quality water filter is necessary when filling your tank.

Learn more: Why you should use reverse osmosis water for your aquarium

How to cycle an aquarium

When cycling your aquarium, you have the option to cycle without fish, with fish, or with plants in the tank. It is highly recommended that you cycle your tank without fish, especially if you are a beginner. Fish in the tank during this process are exposed to higher-than-normal levels of ammonia, and even hardy fish can suffer as a result. Plants, on the other hand, are unpredictable and can lead to frustration when cycling a tank.

Cycling without fish

Cycling an aquarium without fish is more time-consuming than cycling with fish, but it is also more humane. Consequently, it is the more popular way to cycle an aquarium. Note that you should introduce fish with this method once your aquarium shows signs that it has cycled.

1. Set up the tank’s components

Before cycling the tank, you must ensure that the pumps, filters, substrate, and other tank components are set up and functioning properly. While the aquarium is cycling, all bubblers, heaters, pumps, and filters should be kept running. This allows nitrifying bacteria to accumulate on the surfaces of the aquarium, particularly the filters and substrate. The bacteria that cling to these surfaces reproduce and maintain the nitrogen cycle when fish are added to the tank.

Learn more: What is an aquarium air pump? | What is an aquarium water pump?

2. Check the water’s pH

Maintaining a pH of 7.0-7.8 is ideal for the nitrogen cycle to occur the most efficiently. It is also the perfect pH for most freshwater fish. Water that is too acidic (pH of less than 7.0) is particularly detrimental to the nitrogen cycle because it allows ammonia levels to rise when it is not wanted. Chlorine, a chemical present in tap water, drops the pH of water below desired levels. In contrast, too high of a pH is also detrimental to the nitrogen cycle. When the pH rises above 9.0, ammonium converts into ammonia, disrupting the tank’s environment. Throughout the whole process of cycling and after fish are added to the aquarium, it is important to check and maintain the water’s pH to preserve the health of your fish. The pH of water can be tested with pH test strips or an all-in-one test kit.

3. Add ammonia to the tank

To begin the nitrogen cycle, ammonia must be present in the tank. A simple and effective way to raise ammonia levels in an aquarium is by adding fish food. You should add the amount of food that you would if fish were present in the tank. If you plan on incorporating six fish in your tank, for example, you should add an appropriate amount of food for six fish. When the food decays, it releases ammonia into the water, kickstarting the nitrogen cycle.

4. Check ammonia levels

Once the food decays, check the ammonia levels of the water. The ideal ammonia concentration in a tank is about 3 parts per million (ppm). Ammonia levels as high as 5 ppm are acceptable, but fewer than 3 ppm of ammonia may fail to produce enough nitrite to properly cycle your tank. If the ammonia levels are too low, add more fish food, allow it to decay, and check the levels once more. If the ammonia levels are too high, change out about 10 to 20 percent of the tank’s water with treated water.

Check the ammonia daily for one week and add food if the ammonia drops below 3 ppm. Likewise, perform a water change if the ammonia rises above 5 ppm. Ammonia, alongside pH, nitrites, and nitrates, can be checked with an aquarium test kit.

5. Check nitrite levels

Once the water has maintained appropriate ammonia levels for a week, the nitrite levels in the tank should be detectable. If nitrites are not detectable yet, allow a little more time and continue to monitor the ammonia levels and pH. Once nitrite levels begin to rise, they will spike quickly as there is nothing to regulate them yet. The nitrites feed on ammonia, so you must maintain ammonia levels during this stage as well. If the ammonia runs out, the nitrates can disappear, and you will need to start the cycle over again. Once the nitrite levels begin to drop while the ammonia levels are suitable, you can move on to the next step.

6. Check nitrate levels

When nitrite levels decline in a tank, that is a sign that either nitrifying bacteria are feeding on the nitrite or that ammonia levels are too low. If nitrates are detectable in your tank, that is a sign that the nitrite levels are declining due to the presence of bacteria. Once nitrate levels are detectable, it is the beginning of the end of the cycle. To ensure the bacteria have enough to feed on, add half as much fish food as you did on the first day about once every two to three days. You should notice that the ammonia and nitrite levels continue to decrease. Once the ammonia and nitrite levels reach zero and the nitrate levels remain, the tank has finished cycling.

7. Introduce fish into the tank

Once the tank has finished cycling, incorporate fish into the tank slowly. To begin, add one or two fish so the bacteria do not become overwhelmed. After a day or two, check the ammonia levels in the tank. If they remain at zero, you can incorporate more fish into the aquarium. Continuing to monitor and regulate the ammonia, nitrite, and pH levels of the aquarium is essential in maintaining the health of your fish.

Learn more: How to maintain a freshwater aquarium

Cycling with fish

Cycling a tank with fish is similar to cycling a tank without fish, but the source of ammonia differs. Rather than adding food to the water, the fish provide ammonia in the form of waste. In addition, you will need to perform frequent water changes with fish present. Fish-in cycling is not recommended in most situations, but it can be effective if you populate your tank with hardy fish.

1. Set up the tank’s components

This step is identical to step one of fishless cycling. Before you add fish to your tank, ensure all components are installed properly and are in working order. This includes all pumps, filters, bubblers, temperature regulators, and all other components. This creates a suitable environment for your fish to live in.

2. Add a few hardy fish to the tank

Hardy fish are less affected by ammonia and other contaminants than most fish species, so they are the only suitable type of fish to be in the tank while cycling. Do not add more than three fish to the tank. If too many fish live in the tank during the cycle, they will produce too much waste and cause ammonia levels to spike too high.

3. Feed the fish

Once the fish have been added, you will want to feed them sparingly. This can mean feeding them less frequently or feeding them smaller amounts at a normal frequency. Avoid overfeeding the fish, as this will cause them to produce more waste and lead to the additional production of ammonia via decayed food. Once the cycle kicks off, you can begin feeding the fish regular amounts of food.

4. Perform water changes

Change about 10 to 20 percent of the tank’s water twice every week. This helps regulate ammonia, nitrite, and other contaminants’ levels. Water changes of this frequency should continue as long as your aquarium operates.

5. Monitor contamination levels

While making water changes, you will need to constantly monitor the tank’s ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Once the nitrate levels remain consistent and the ammonia and nitrite levels are undetectable, the cycle has been completed. Additional fish can then be added to the tank.

Cycling with plants

Aquarium cycling with plants is far less predictable of a method than fishless and fish-in cycling. Plant death and algae growth can cause the cycle to fail and require you to start the process over. As a result, this method is not recommended over fishless cycling, but it is more humane than fish-in cycling. Before cycling a tank with plants, you will need to purchase nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

1. Setup the components of the aquarium

Like step one in the previous methods, ensure that all pumps, bubblers, filters, heaters, and other components are added to the aquarium.

2. Disinfect and add plants to the aquarium

Before adding plants to the aquarium, disinfect them to reduce the risk of outside bacteria and parasites from harming the tank’s environment. Hardy plants are the best plant type to add to an aquarium while cycling. Water column feeders are ideal because they absorb ammonia and nitrate better than other plant types.

3. Incorporate aquarium lighting

The lighting of a planted aquarium is essential in allow the plant to photosynthesize. Ensure that the lighting setup you use is optimal for your plants both while cycling and after. At this stage, plants should receive about ten to twelve hours of light per day.

4. Add fertilizer

Now that the lighting is set up, you can add fertilizer to the tank. If you are using water column feeders, liquid fertilizer is the best option. For root plants, place root tabs directly under the plants’ roots.

5. Perform water changes

When cycling with plants, you should change about 30 percent of the tank’s water each week. This reduces algae growth, especially in the first few weeks after introducing plants to the water.

6. Watch for new growth

If you see new growth in your tank, that is a sign that the tank is completing its cycle. You may notice some algae growth along the tank walls and substrate. In this phase, some algae growth is acceptable because it signals there are enough nutrients for the plants to thrive. If your tank has an abundance of algae, lower the lighting duration to about eight to ten hours a day.

7. Monitoring the water contamination levels

Throughout this process, you will need to monitor the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels of the aquarium’s water. To test if your tank is cycled, add around one ppm of ammonia to the tank. If ammonia levels are undetectable after 24 hours, nitrites are undetectable, and nitrates are present, the tank has completed its cycle.

Can I cycle an aquarium in 24 hours?

Adding bacteria manually can help a tank cycle quickly, but it can lead to problems for your fish later on. If you choose to speed up the hydrogen cycle in your tank, you will need a filter and substrate from an already cycled tank to produce the most desirable results. While bottled bacteria and recycled filters and substrate speed up the nitrogen cycle, the best option for your aquarium is to let the process carry out naturally.

Source: https://www.freshwatersystems.com/blogs/blog/how-to-cycle-a-fish-tank

February 3, 2024February 3, 2024

Corydoras Habrosus

Salt and Pepper Pygmy Cory Catfish (Corydoras habrosus)

The Salt and Pepper Pygmy Cory Catfish (Corydoras habrosus) is a very animated, distinctively marked schooling fish that is perfect for the community and planted aquarium. As its name suggests, it has a light tan body covered with black and shiny silver spotting and broken striping. This is a much smaller species than the similarly-named Peppered Cory Catfish (Corydoras paleatus), which we also offer.

The Salt and Pepper Pygmy Cory Catfish is a very peaceful schooling fish that is compatible with most nano aquarium animals. It might eat dwarf shrimp fry, but is generally safe to keep with adult dwarf shrimp. It is a classic scavenger and will inhabit and feed at the aquarium floor, which should be comprised of sand or smooth gravel. Very coarse substrate can damage its delicate barbells and underbelly. This fish is otherwise very undemanding as it will accept most dry and frozen foods. It is adaptable to most tropical freshwater conditions as long as standard regular maintenance is performed.

Source: https://aquaticarts.com/products/salt-and-pepper-cory-catfish

February 3, 2024February 3, 2024

Otos

Care Guide for Otocinclus Catfish — Peaceful, Schooling Algae Eater

If you start getting algae in your new fish tank, most major pet stores will recommend that you buy a pleco or suckermouth catfish. The problem is that most plecos grow rather large, especially the common pleco that can reach up to 2 feet (60 cm). Instead, why not get their much smaller cousin, the otocinclus catfish? They are the perfect fish that have a peaceful personality and amazing cleaning skills. Learn how to keep these adorable algae-eaters and make sure they’re getting enough to eat.

What are Otocinclus Catfish?

This genus of South American catfish consists of about 20 species so far and are often referred to as “otos” for short. Common species in the aquarium hobby include O. vittatus (common otocinclus), O. macrospilus (dwarf otocinclus), and O. cocama (zebra oto). Otocinclus typically range from 1.5–2 inches (4–5 cm), and many kinds are known for having a black horizontal line, dark grayish-brown back, and white belly. Unlike many catfish, they are diurnal (or awake during the daytime). They can usually be found grazing or resting on the ground and flat surfaces (e.g., plant leaves, hardscape, and tank walls) until they suddenly zip away to the other side of the tank.

Are otocinclus good algae eaters? These little critters love nothing more than to nibble algae off plants, glass, tank decor, and other smooth surfaces. They specialize in eating softer algae such as soft green algae and brown diatoms and tend to avoid harder types like black beard or green spot algae. They also love to eat the biofilm that grows on driftwood and other botanicals that are slowly breaking down in the aquarium.

Otocinclus perched on an aquarium plant

How to Purchase Otocinclus Catfish

Otocinclus have a reputation for being sensitive fish that are hard to keep alive, but experienced aquarists will tell you that otos are actually very resilient fish and they often avoid catching common illnesses that plague other fish. Their greatest weakness is not getting enough to eat. Currently, most otocinclus are caught from the wild and sent to an exporter’s warehouse, where they are fasted for several days so that they won’t produce too much waste when they are shipped out. Then they arrive at a wholesaler, and hundreds of them are put into a bare aquarium where they may spend a few weeks without getting enough food. By the time the fish store buys the otos from the wholesaler, the fish may not have eaten well for the past 3–6 weeks and will come in pretty skinny.

Even through all that stress, there’s a good chance that otocinclus can still thrive in your aquarium if you follow a few simple tips to greatly increase their survivability:

Make sure you have tons of algae in an aquarium for them to pig out on when you bring them home. The best way to accomplish this is to set up a quarantine tank and simply leave the light on for a week or so until algae is growing all over the place.
Go buy the otos the day after they come into the pet or fish store. This goes against conventional wisdom which says that you want to buy fish that have been at the pet store longer to prove their longevity and lessen the shock of being transported too soon after arrival. Given that the otocinclus are typically grouped together in large numbers and put into tanks that can’t produce enough algae, you want to pick out the strongest fish and take them home to pamper as soon as possible.
Pick the healthiest otos with round, pearly abdomens that are happily swimming around and feeding in the tank. The problem with scrawny otocinclus catfish is that once they have been starved of food, it is often hard to get them to eat again.
Besides algae, try offering them lots of different kinds of foods to see what they’ll eat. See the below section on dietary requirements for more ideas.

You know you have achieved success in finding a good food balance for your otos if they have lived in your tank for more than a month or two. Once your fish have survived that long, it means they are getting enough food to continue happily navigating their new home.
3 healthy otocinclus with rounded, pearl-like bellies

How to Set Up an Aquarium for Otocinclus

Otos are relatively hardy in terms of water parameters and can live in fish tanks with temperatures between 70-79°F (21-26°C), pH of 6.0–7.5, and soft to hard water. As mentioned before, they do best in a mature aquarium with lots of algae and biofilm, especially one that is planted and has plenty of hiding spots. In fact, when we collected fish in Peru, we often found them by lifting up pieces of wood from the water, so they probably feel safer there and like foraging on the driftwood for microfauna. The rivers we found them in were murky with silt and tannins, so some hobbyists like to dim the lights or add catappa leaves to tint the water. Consider getting slow-growing plants with flat leaves that are known to be algae-magnets, such as Anubias barteri. Also, we tend to only scrape off algae from the front aquarium panel so that it can grow on the other three walls and provide more food for the otos.

How many otocinclus should be kept together? Usually, we suggest keeping schooling fish in as large of a group as possible, but the problem with otocinclus is that too many of them may end up consuming all the algae in the aquarium. It is much better to have a couple of plump and healthy otos than a school of six that are slowly starving to death over time. The best thing you can do is to not overstock the tank with otocinclus (and other algae eaters) to make sure there’s enough algae and food to go around.

What fish can live with otocinclus? Otocinclus don’t have a mean bone in their bodies and are well-suited for peaceful community setups. Avoid any aggressive species that will pick on them or are large enough to eat them. Instead, choose other similar-sized, docile tank mates that won’t outcompete them for food — such as tetras, rasboras, corydoras, kuhli loaches, snails, and dwarf shrimp. While all fish will opportunistically eat whatever can fit in their mouths, we have even housed our otos with baby fish and shrimp and experienced minimal casualties.

Otocinclus hanging out with a school of blackline tetras

What Do Otocinclus Catfish Eat?

The reason why otocinclus have such specialized dietary requirements is because they are aufwuchs grazers that primarily suck off the slimy layer that grows on underwater plants and hardscape. This biofilm is made up of algae, diatoms, insect larvae, tiny crustaceans, and other microorganisms. That is why otos don’t tend to take to flake foods, pellets, or other normal community fish foods. Instead, they need foods that allow them to constantly graze, last for a long time in the water without breaking apart, and won’t be immediately gulped down by other species.

Not every oto eats the same thing, so keep trying different foods to see what they like — like canned green beans, algae wafers, and softened zucchini slices that have been blanched (or slightly boiled) and sitting in the aquarium water for more than 24 hours. One of our favorite foods to feed them is Repashy Soilent Green gel food, which is specially formulated for aufwuchs grazers. Just stir the powder in hot water, and while the mixture is still runny, paint it or spoon it onto a round rock or piece of driftwood. In fact, don’t forget to add driftwood and catappa leaves into their tank (even without Repashy gel food) because otos like to graze on the natural biofilm that forms as the plant fibers break down. You can tell when they are full because their bellies look like a round, white pearl.

Oto munching on a slice of zucchini

How to Breed Otocinclus Catfish

In general, otocinclus have breeding behaviors that are very similar to corydoras catfish. The females are a little bigger and broader than males, especially when they are full of eggs. To condition them for spawning, feed them lots of their normal foods and introduce more protein in their diet — such as live and frozen baby brine shrimp and micro worms. Some hobbyists try to induce breeding by doing 50% water changes to imitate seasonal flooding and heavy rainfall. Like cory catfish, the mating pair forms a T position and then the female lays adhesive eggs on plant leaves and other surfaces. These clutches of 30–40 eggs should be removed or they may get eaten by other fish. Sometimes the eggs can be extremely sticky and hard to roll off.

Put the eggs into a hatching container with an air stone and wait about 3 days for the fry to hatch. The fry can be fed green water, soft algae that grows on surfaces, spirulina powder, live paramecium, soft vegetables, and tiny, 5–50 micron powdered fry foods. Eventually, you can add live baby brine shrimp to their diet for faster growth. Because of their miniscule size, make sure to use gentle flow with a sponge filter or block the intake tube of your filter with a pre-filter sponge.

Zebra or tiger otocinclus (O. cocama)

Otocinclus catfish are the sweetest, little fish to add to your planted community tank, and if you invest some love and care, they will happily thrive for years.

Source: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/otocinclus-catfish

February 3, 2024February 3, 2024

Pygmy Corydoras

Pygmy Coriadorables!

Care Guide for Pygmy Corydoras – The World’s Tiniest Cory Catfish

Cory catfish are beloved in the freshwater aquarium hobby because of their happy-go-lucky nature and interesting behaviors, such as constantly shuffling through the substrate for snacks. While some hobbyists enjoy keeping the larger species, like the hognosed brochis (Corydoras multiradiatus) or emerald cory catfish (C. splendens), nano aquarium enthusiasts take special pleasure in finding the most petite corys. The pygmy cory (C. pygmaeus) has become quite popular because of its adorable appearance and unique swimming style. Learn about what it takes to care for one of the smallest corydoras in the world.

Pygmy cory perched on a plant leaf

What are Pygmy Cory Catfish?

This tiny South American schooling fish grows to a grand total of 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length, with females being slightly rounder and longer than males. Its silvery body with a horizontal, black stripe is not particularly colorful, but it’s hard to resist those big, black eyes and little whiskers that look like a mustache. Like many cory catfish, they like to “wink” by quickly looking down and will dart up to the water surface to take the occasional gulp of air. In contrast though, most corydoras are known as bottom dwellers, whereas pygmy corys have the unusual habit of hovering midwater by flapping their fins, almost like an underwater hummingbird.

What is the difference between the habrosus, hastatus, and pygmy cory? All three of these dwarf corydoras are similar in size and coloration. However, they have clear differences in their patterns that you can easily identify:

C. habrosus (salt and pepper cory): silvery body with an uneven, horizontal black stripe, a tail covered with stripes, and darker splotches on the head and back
C. hastatus (tail spot cory): silvery body with a big, black spot at the base of the tail that is flanked by small, white dots
C. pygmaeus (pygmy cory): silvery body with a thin, horizontal black stripe

Left to right: C. hasbrosus, C. hastatus, and C. pygmaeus

How to Set Up an Aquarium for Pygmy Corys

Pygmy corydoras were originally discovered in the river basins of Brazil, so they are used to pH of 6.4–7.5 and moderately soft water. They also appreciate slightly cooler temperatures between 72–78°F (22–26°C). In the wild, they are prone to predation and therefore like to hide amongst the tree roots and vegetation along the riverbanks. To make them feel more comfortable in your home aquarium, add plenty of plants and hardscape for cover. We often find them perched on anubias leaves and driftwood branches to give them a bird’s eye view of what’s going on in the tank.

How many pygmy corys should be kept together? While a small group could technically fit in a 5-gallon nano tank, they can be a bit shy. Instead, get a 10-gallon or larger aquarium so that you can keep a bigger school of at least 8–12 pygmies that will be less afraid to come out.

What fish can live with pygmy corydoras? Like most cory catfish, pygmy corys are very peaceful community fish that wouldn’t harm a fly. Because they are fairly petite, make sure not to pair them with anything big enough to eat them. Also, they are not the fastest eaters, so don’t let them get outcompeted for food during mealtimes. We find that they do well with other nano species — like neon tetras, chili rasboras, celestial pearl danios, otocinclus, and even a chill betta fish. Also, they won’t bother your snails or adult-sized dwarf shrimp, although they may accidentally slurp up a baby shrimp while foraging.

Pygmy corys swimming midwater with lambchop rasboras

What Do Pygmy Corydoras Eat?

As a species that hangs out in the lower half of the aquarium, they prefer to graze off the ground or on the surfaces of plant leaves. Their little, downturned mouths are most suited for eating sinking foods that are either tiny in size or soft enough to nibble on. For example, frozen bloodworms are often too hefty to easily swallow, but frozen daphnia, cyclops, and baby brine shrimp are perfectly bite-sized. In terms of dry foods, nano pellets, freeze-dried tubifex worm, and sinking wafers are all good options that have worked well for us. One of their favorite foods is Repashy gel food — whenever we drop in a chunk, they all seem to swarm on it like bees to honey.

How to Breed Pygmy Corydoras

While pygmy corys may not be as easy to breed as bronze or albino corys (C. aeneus), many hobbyists have had success with them in home aquariums. Take a mature, 10-gallon tank that is full of plants, mulm, and microfauna for the fry to feed on. Add a colony of at least six corys to increase your chances of having both males and females and feed them well. Be patience because it may take a little while for newly purchased corys to mature if you got them as juveniles. When the female is ready and full of eggs, she is often followed by an entourage of smaller males who are hoping to mate with her.

Unlike other corys that usually lay a cluster of eggs all in the same spot, the female pygmy will deposit a single, sticky egg — about 1 mm in diameter — on a strand of java moss or the roots of floating water sprite. Then she will swim to another location to place the next egg and repeat this process until tens of eggs have been laid. There are varying reports on whether or not the parents tend to eat their own eggs, but just in case, some breeders like to gently remove the eggs with their fingers and place them in a well-aerated spawning container. They may add a few drops of methylene blue, some alder cones, or even dwarf shrimp to clean off any fungal growth.

The eggs start off as translucent white and then eventually change colors. Fertilized eggs become a translucent yellow-tan, whereas unfertilized eggs turn solid white and should be removed to prevent fungus from spreading. Depending on the water temperature, the eggs usually hatch within 2–5 days, and the newborn fry have a translucent body, two black eyes, and a black band behind their head. Within a couple of days, they develop three more black dots down their back, which eventually become a fully mottled pattern all over the body to help with camouflage. Eventually, these splotches combine to form the classic black stripe running their lateral line. This rapid transformation happens within a month or so, such that the juveniles look just like miniature adults and can be hard to tell apart from their parents.

As with most babies of nano species, start off with nearly microscopic foods like vinegar eels, infusoria, and 5–50 micron golden pearls until they’re big enough to eat live baby brine shrimp and Repashy gel food. Provide frequent small meals and frequent small water changes to keep the water quality high.

Pygmy corys love laying their eggs in dense foliage like java moss.

Source: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/pygmy-corydoras

February 3, 2024February 3, 2024

Betta Fish

Betta Fish Species Overview

Betta fish are great first-time pets for anyone. They are calm, slow-moving fish that don’t require the space that many other fish do.

Here is everything you need to know about caring for your new betta fish–ensuring they have a long and happy life.

Characteristics of Betta Fish

Difficulty of Care	Beginner
Average Life Span	3–5 years with proper care
Average Adult Size	2.5 inches long, not including tail
Diet	Carnivorous
Minimum Habitat Size	1 gallon or larger
Water Temperature	72–82 F
pH	6.0–8.0

Betta Fish Supply Checklist

To keep a betta happy and healthy, keep these basic supplies on hand:

Appropriate size aquarium
Appropriate food (dry and frozen)

Décor
Water Test Strips
Water conditioner
Net
Freshwater substrate

Filter
Heater
Freshwater aquarium salt

Betta Fish Habitat

Choosing the Right Enclosure

Single betta fish should be kept in an aquarium with at least a 1-gallon capacity. Bettas need to be able to breathe from the surface of the water. Keep in mind, betta like to jump out of aquariums, so there must be space at the top of the aquarium below the lid for them to surface and breathe.

Male bettas need to be kept individually and do best in habitats that are 1 gallon or larger. Male bettas can live successfully in a community aquarium that’s 10 gallons or larger if the tank
does not have aggressive fish species (such as tiger barbs, gouramis, or giant danios) or fish that bettas may become aggressive toward (such as fancy guppies).

Female bettas can be housed with other community fish or other female bettas of a similar size. If deciding to keep female betta fish in a small group, make sure that the aquarium’s capacity is at least 15 gallons (depending on the number of fish) and provide numerous hiding places within the habitat.

Selecting Tankmates

Bettas can be territorial and prone to fight–male bettas must be housed separately or be the only betta fish in a community tank stocked with non-aggressive fish species. Male and female betta fish should not be kept in the same aquarium.

Female betta fish can be housed alongside other community fish or female bettas. If more than one female betta is kept in the same tank, be sure to provide them with ample space to swim, hide, and establish territories.

It’s important to know that male bettas will attack other male bettas, and males have been known to attack similar-looking fish or fish with flowing fins. It is highly recommended that male bettas are not housed together or with other long-fin species. If you choose to get more than one betta fish, be sure to ask the sex of the fishes so you select two females.

Filtration

Even in smaller aquariums, betta fish can benefit from the addition of a filtration system to their habitat. Aside from keeping tanks looking clean, filters remove harmful toxins like ammonia from the aquarium’s water and add oxygen to the water so fish can breathe.

An aquarium’s filter should be powerful enough to process all the water in the tank at least four times an hour. For example, a 5-gallon tank should ideally have an aquarium filter with a flow rate that’s at least 20 gallons per hour (GPH). If only a 10 or 30 GPH filter is available, purchase the 30 GPH option.

Bettas aren’t fans of a ton of movement in their environment, so look for a filter that allows them to control the flow rate so they can keep current speeds low in the tank.

Selecting Tankmates

Filtration

Bettas aren’t fans of a ton of movement in their environment, so look for a filter that allows them to control the flow rate so they can keep current speeds low in the tank.

Temperature

To keep a betta fish healthy, ensure the water temperature is maintained at 72-82 F. An aquatic heater should be installed in the tank to ensure that water temperatures stay within an ideal range and do not fluctuate more than +/- 2 F in a single day. Heaters should be paired with a thermostat to regulate the aquarium’s temperature and prevent the water from rising above the ideal range.

Check the water temperature of the tank daily using an aquarium thermometer.

Décor & Accessories

The bottom of a betta fish’s aquarium should be lined with at least 1–2 inches of freshwater substrate.

Aquariums need about 1 ½-pounds of substrate for each gallon of water in the tank. For example, a 10-gallon tank will require about 15 pounds of substrate to create a 1- to 2-inch layer.

Be sure to rinse the substrate with clean, running water before adding it to the tank.

Cleaning & Maintenance of Betta Fish

Pet parents can maintain the condition of their betta’s tank by performing routine water changes (no more than 10-25% of the aquarium’s total water volume) every two to four weeks. Avoid draining and replacing all the water. Removing all the water will also remove the beneficial bacteria in the tank that helps keep the habitat’s ecosystem healthy.

Most aquariums will need a full cleaning once a month, depending on the number of fish in the tank. To fully clean a fish tank, take these steps:

Before cleaning or performing any maintenance on an aquarium, wash your hands thoroughly, to remove any traces of lotions, perfumes, or other toxic chemicals that can harm fish. Do not remove the fish from the aquarium because it will stress them out and possibly injure them.
Use a soft sponge or scrubber to scrape the inside walls of the aquarium. To prevent unsightly scrapes and scratches, acrylic tanks should only be cleaned with specialized cleaning tools designed for acrylic aquariums, such as the API Extra Long Algae Scraper for Acrylic Aquariums or API Algae Pad for Acrylic Aquariums.
Remove the aquarium’s accessories and any artificial plants that have significant algae growth. Use an algae pad and hot water to scrub any build-up or debris.
If the décor is still visibly dirty after being scrubbed, use a 3% bleach solution to remove the stubborn build-up. Accessories should soak in the diluted bleach solution for 15 minutes before being rinsed thoroughly with running water until there are no residual smells from the bleach. After cleaning, leave the accessories to air-dry fully.
Inspect the aquarium’s filter to ensure it’s working properly and doesn’t have any algae buildup. If the filter needs to be cleaned, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Use a siphon vacuum to remove waste or old food from the bottom of the tank. This step will also drain water from the tank and prepare the aquarium for a water change.
Once the aquarium’s gravel is vacuumed, check on the cleaned décor to ensure that all furnishings are fully dried and do not have a bleachy smell before adding them back to the tank.
Add new, dechlorinated water to the tank to replace the water that was siphoned out. The new water must be detoxified with a water conditioner to remove toxic chemicals like chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. The added water should be at the same temperature as the existing water in the tank.
Use an aquarium-safe cleaner to clean the outer walls of the aquarium. Household cleaners should be avoided, as they often have ammonia and other chemicals that are toxic to fish.

Diet & Nutrition for Betta Fish

Betta fish are prone to obesity and bloating, so only feed them once a day.. Overfeeding can also cloud and foul tank water (especially in smaller, unfiltered aquariums). Uneaten food should be removed to prevent excess nitrite and ammonia in the water.

A well-balanced betta fish diet consists of:

A variety of meat-based fish foods, including flakes, pellets, freeze-dried bloodworms, daphnia, and frozen foods.
Frozen foods should be thawed before feeding.
Baby betta fish should be fed a smaller pellet or finely crushed flake food.

Treats, including frozen/thawed or live blood worms or brine shrimp, offered in limited quantities; feed treats in moderation to prevent obesity.

Caring for Your Betta Fish

Change 10–25% of the total volume of the water evert two to four weeks, or more often if needed. The tank’s water quality should be tested at least once a week for two months (with any new fish/plants/equipment) and then monthly thereafter to check the pH, nitrite, nitrate, ammonia, carbonate, and general hardness levels.

Before being added to an aquarium, water must be treated with a water conditioner to remove toxic chemicals like chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. The added water should be at the same temperature as the existing water in the tank.

Veterinary Care for Betta Fish

Annual Care

You can perform your own water quality tests and water changes weekly, and to only utilize a veterinarian if there is a problem with your betta. Almost all bettas first introduced to your home will likely have at least one health issue, so it is recommended to have them and your setup assessed by a veterinarian within a week of establishing them at your home.

A veterinarian will assess your fish if they are moved from a quarantine tank to a larger tank with other fish. While a betta can be transported to a vet, it is recommended to find an aquatics veterinarian who will make house calls or can chat via telehealth.

Signs of a Healthy Betta

Bright coloration
Full range of motion of fin movement, equal on both sides
Intact fins all the way to the edges with no discoloration
Regular and active swim pattern
Large appetite

When to Call a Vet

Changes to the betta’s coloration: becoming dull, focal spots of change, stripes or bands of color change
Lethargic swimming when the fish is circling, listing to the side, staying on the top or bottom of the tank, etc.
Receding fin edges with or without discoloration at the edges
Decreased appetite for more than a day
Itching
Rapid breathing potentially with flared gills
Gill color changes
Presence of lumps/bumps/masses
White growths/spots of any kind

Common Illnesses in Betta Fish

Fin/tail rot
Dropsy (fluid filled body cavity)
Parasites
Bacterial infections
Cancer
Ich
Pop eye
Fungal oral or skin infections
Swim bladder disorders

Betta Fish FAQs

Are betta fish easy to care for?

Bettas are extremely easy to care for! Once you have their tank set up and arranged appropriately, they have minimal daily and weekly care needs.

What do betta fish need in their tank?

Betta fish need a minimum 5-gallon, ideally 10-gallon tank size with a filter and a heater. It’s recommended to opt for live plants rather than plastic ones for decorations because the plastic plants can hurt and damage their fins.

Can betta fish live in tap water?

Bettas are freshwater fish but can live in tap water. Keep in mind the tap water must be treated first.

How do you know a betta fish is happy?

A happy betta fish will have an active and curious personality, eat well daily, have gorgeous colorful intact fins, and swim comfortably around their tank with no odd behaviors.

MALE VS FEMALE BETTA

The Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens) is one of the most interesting tropical fish in the aquarium hobby. Many experienced fish keepers started out with just a single male betta fish, and you can walk into pretty much any pet store and find a selection of these wonderful fish.

Surprisingly, females are much rarer, and many people have never even seen one! But why are female betta fish rare, and how are they different from the males? Read along to find out!

Key Takeaways

Female bettas usually have smaller fins and less color than male bettas
Most bettas in pet stores are male
Female bettas are less aggressive than males, but they will still fight with each other
It is possible to keep female bettas together, but male bettas should be kept on their own

Male Vs Female Betta Appearance

Male and female bettas can look very similar unless you know exactly what to look for. Let’s say you just walked into the pet store and you want to pick out a single female betta fish. How would you know which is which? The best approach is to look at a combination of small differences.

Ready to learn? Let’s get started!

Size and Body Shape

Male bettas are slightly longer and leaner than females. The length difference usually only comes down to about a quarter inch or so, but the body width can be pretty noticeable. Females are wider across the back and belly, which is especially noticeable when viewed from above.

Fins

Bettas are loved for their amazing long fins. There are loads of different betta breeds, and some look very different from others. Elephant ear bettas are just bursting with fins, while plakat betta fish have relatively small, and compact fins.

So how do you tell female and male betta fish apart by their fins? Male betta fish generally have larger fins and females have shorter fins. The difference is pretty clear in most betta breeds, but in smaller-finned varieties, the ventral fin is the best place to look.

Let’s take a look at the various betta fish fins and how they differ:

Pelvic/Ventral fin

The ventral fins are the paired fins that hang down below the body, just behind the gills. Male betta fish have much larger and longer ventral fins.

Anal Fins

The anal fin is the long flowing fin that extends from behind the ventral fin all the way to the tail. This is the largest fin on some betta fish breeds. Male betta fish have much longer anal fins than females, and this can be a good clue for telling them apart.

Caudal fin (tail)

Male betta fish have longer tails than females. The size difference is very obvious in some breeds like the rose tails, but not very clear with plakat betta fish.

Color

Male betta fish are usually more colorful than females. Females tend to have more gray and silver colors, but sometimes they can be even more colorful than male bettas.

Egg Spot

Female bettas have an egg spot between their ventral and anal fins. This small bump is the ovipositor tube where the eggs are released. The egg spot is another useful clue for telling male and female betta fish apart.

Gill Plate Cover

Betta fish can flare out their gill plate covers (operculum). Both male and female betta fish do this to show dominance and aggression, but the male fish tend to flare more often.

The larger gill plate cover of male betta fish looks kind of like a beard, so that’s a good way to remember this difference.

Behavior

Male and female betta fish can look a lot alike, but some unique behaviors really help set them apart.

Here’s what to look for:

Bubble Nests

Bettas are from the Osphronemidae family, a group of fish that build bubble nests where the eggs develop in a more oxygen-rich environment. Males create bubble nests, and they will do this even if they are kept alone in their own tanks.

Bubble nests are basically small rafts of bubbles that float together at the water’s surface. The size of the bubble nest varies, and it can often be found in the corner of an aquarium, especially after a water change. Female betta fish can also make bubble nests but this is pretty rare.

Temperament

Captive-bred betta fish tend to be far more aggressive than the wild fish they were bred from. There are many types of wild bettas, however, so it really depends on the species.

Domesticated Betta splendens are extremely popular in the fish-keeping hobby today but they were originally bred for sport. That’s right, bettas were bred to fight, and generations of winners have produced a pretty mean breed of fish!

Male bettas tend to be more aggressive than females, but each fish has his or her own personality. The difference in temperament means female betta fish are a little more flexible when it comes to tank mates. Read more about this later in the article.

Care

Male and female betta fish have very similar care needs. There are some slight differences that we’ll get into below, but both sexes need good water quality, enough space, and a healthy diet to live a long, happy life.

Tank Setup

Betta fish need an aquarium of at least 5 gallons. You might buy them in a cup over at the pet store, but they will not live for very long in such cramped conditions. Here’s a basic setup for male or female betta fish:

5-gallon+ tank (with hood)
Aquarium heater
Filter (HOB, sponge, etc.)
Aquarium light with timer

Those four core components are vital for keeping your fish healthy. You’ll also want to decorate your tank of course, and that’s where some potential differences come into play.

Aquarium Decorations

Betta fish do not need to have substrate in their tank, but you’ll probably want to add a layer of aquarium-safe gravel to the bottom of your aquarium for aesthetic reasons.

Caves and ornaments will add interest to your tank and make it a more natural and stimulating environment for your fish.

Unfortunately, the long, flowing fins of the male betta fish can tear very easily, so you need to be extra careful when choosing decorations. Avoid anything with sharp edges that could cause damage. Females are less vulnerable than male bettas because they have short fins, but it’s still something to think about.

Plastic plants can be especially dangerous for your fish so choose soft, silk plants, or even better, grow the real thing! Aquatic plants are surprisingly easy and fun to grow and care for.

Water Quality

Keeping male or female betta fish healthy in the long run requires good water quality. So how do you make sure your water is safe and healthy for your fish?

Let’s take a look at the basics of betta fish tank maintenance.

The water in your betta fish tank changes over time as fish waste and excess food accumulate. This causes chemical changes in the water due to the nitrogen cycle, and the water becomes more and more toxic for your fish.

The only way to monitor these changes is to test your water regularly and perform partial water changes whenever necessary. Growing some live aquatic plants can certainly improve your water quality, but you’ll still need to roll up your sleeves once, twice, or even four times each month.

Feeding Your Betta Fish

Male and female betta fish can be fed the same diet. You can feed these tropical fish small prepared foods for freshwater aquarium fish or choose from some excellent betta pellets made specifically for your siamese fighting fish. A high-quality diet can bring out the best in your betta fish colors.

Supplementary live and frozen foods like bloodworms make a tasty treat for your Siamese-fighting fish and are a great way to get your fish into good spawning condition if you plan on breeding them.

Tank Mates

The only real downside to betta fish is their aggressive behavior towards other bettas. Most Siamese fighting fish keepers keep just one fish in their own tank.

These beautiful fish can actually get along just fine with many species in a community aquarium, however. But how do you know which other fish will get along with your betta?

Betta fish can be kept with other small tropical fish that enjoy the same water parameters and tank conditions. They should only be kept with peaceful fish, of course, because bettas can be bullied and hurt by other species.

Never keep Siamese fighting fish with fin nippers like tiger barbs, or any aggressive or large and predatory fish.

Read on for some great betta fish community tank mates!

Betta Tank Mates

Female Betta Sororities

Betta fish tend to fight with their own species, which is why it’s always best to keep them on their own. You probably know that male bettas should never be kept with other males. It is possible to keep a female fish with other female betta fish, however, and this is known as a betta sorority.

Betta sororities don’t always work out because female bettas can still be aggressive toward other females. If you do go this route, a 20+ gallon tank size is going to be your safest bet, and you’ll need to carefully monitor your fish and be ready to move them to another tank if you notice any aggression.

Bettas are not very social fish, so there’s nothing wrong with keeping a single female in her own tank.

Keeping Male and Female Bettas Together

Keeping male and female betta fish together in the same tank is a bad idea! These fish can be very aggressive towards their own species and will often hurt each other very badly- or worse.

It is possible to keep two bettas together in the same tank if you have a divider in the aquarium. A tank divider is a physical barrier that keeps the fish apart but allows water to flow between both sides of the tank, making water quality easier to maintain.

A divider that is opaque or partially clear is the best bet because this minimizes flaring and fighting between the fish on either side of the divider. Your bettas will be able to sense each other even with a solid divider in the tank, so using separate tanks is recommended unless you plan on breeding the fish.

Breeding Betta fish

You’re probably wondering how betta fish breed if the males and females are so aggressive toward each other! There is a good video by Aquaplanets that shows the process below.

It is possible to breed betta fish at home, although you need to be quite careful to avoid aggression and fighting. Keeping the pair together in a divided tank is a great way to introduce them safely since they will be able to sense each other’s hormones and prepare to reproduce.

Only healthy, well-conditioned male and female bettas should be bred, and the pair should be moved into a separate, dedicated breeding tank. The female can be kept in a breeder box until the male has built his bubble nest and they are ready to mate.

Once the eggs are laid, the female should be removed from the tank because the male will begin to attack her. He does this because female bettas will eat their own eggs. The male fish can be kept in the breeding tank until all the eggs have hatched and the fry are free swimming.

FAQs

Is a male or female betta better?

Both male and female bettas make wonderful pets, so it’s impossible to choose which is best! Male betta fish usually have a better variety of bright colors and longer fins, however, so they tend to be more popular as display fish.

Can 1 male and 2 female betta fish live together?

You should not attempt to keep male and betta fish together in the same tank. Sure, it does work out now and then, but there’s a good chance that it will end in tragedy because these fish often fight to the death.

Are male or female bettas easier to take care of?

Male and female bettas have the same general care needs, so they are equally easy to care for.

Are female bettas less aggressive than males?

Females tend to be less aggressive than male bettas but this is not always the case. In fact, female bettas often kill males, so both sexes should be treated as aggressive fish.

Can female bettas be kept together?

It is possible to keep females together but this is not advisable for beginner fish keepers. This type of setup is known as a betta sorority and should consist of at least 5 females in a tank size of 20 gallons or more.

Should female bettas be alone?

Female betta fish can be kept alone, and this is the easiest and safest way to care for them. They need a heated and filtered tank of at least 5 gallons to stay healthy in the long run.

Are female bettas aggressive?

Female betta fish can be very aggressive. They tend to be less aggressive than the male bettas but each female betta fish has her own personality of course.

How can you tell if a betta fish is a female?

Female betta fish tend to be smaller and less colorful than their male counterparts. They also have a thicker body, shorter ventral and anal fins, a smaller gill plate cover, and a characteristic egg spot at their vent.

Final Thoughts

Knowing how to tell the sexes apart is really important, especially if you plan on breeding these fish or setting up a sorority tank. Unfortunately, pet stores don’t always keep female betta fish in stock because they aren’t as colorful as the males, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t awesome pets!

Source: https://aquariumstoredepot.com/blogs/news/male-vs-female-betta

Betta Sororities

Souce: Prime Time Aquatics

HOW TO START A FEMALE BETTA SORORITY TANK

In this topic, will be explaining how to successfully keep a Female Betta Sorority, the basics, how to, setting up, etc.

First and foremost, you may ask: “What is a Betta sorority tank?”. A Betta sorority is a tank full of female bettas that (Hopefully) can live in peace together. I bet your thinking, “But I thought when Bettas are together, they fight?”. You see females are generally more peaceful / passive than male Bettas, they can in most cases be kept in set ups with multiple other female bettas & community set-ups (Unlike most males). Again, let me remind you that a Betta sorority tank has a 50/50 chance of being successful (Every betta has a different personality – it really just depends on each of the individuals bettas personalities if they can do ok with each other). I have found that, in most sororities, the female bettas form a pecking order and are able to successfully live with one another. Anyway, enough talk about a sorority, let’s get on to the tank details.

Tank Size:

For keeping a sorority, at least a 10 gallon minimum is recommended (Some may disagree though), preferably a 20 gallon aquarium minimum. Anything under 10 gallons will not work due to room and bioload issues. Why I recommend a 10 gallon is because in a sorority, you will need at least 4 – 6 girls or more (And a 10 gallon can hold up to 6 girls comfortably). Don’t ever put just two or three females together, it won’t work. You see, with two females, there will be one Superior female and one Inferior female – the Superior female will have the dominance of the tank most indefinitely attack the Inferior female and most likely kill her. With three, the two dominant females will gang up on the more passive girl and kill her given the opportunity. Four, I have had success with, but I would recommend that you start out with a higher number.

Make sure that you have a lid for your sorority as females bettas are excellent jumpers. I have had 2 deaths from Bettas jumping (Female) so far and it wasn’t pleasant. From what I have looked at, it seems that females jump more often than males (Why I said is because with all that extra finnage, males don’t really attempt to jump out of the tank as often as females – though this does not mean it isn’t possible for males either).

I would as well recommend a light for the tank. It’s more appealing to view your bettas with a light than it is without and the tank just doesn’t look as good without a light. Some lights, like fluorescent as well bring out the Bettas best color. Lights are a must if you plan on keeping live plants (And it depends on the type of plants you want to keep you might have to get more lighting or not).

Substrate:

Really any substrate for this set-up will do. You could either do sand, regular aquarium gravel, etc. But if you do decide to use sand, make sure that you pop the nitrogen pockets in the sand every water change because if not, it could be deadly to your females (And other fish as well). Just when doing the water changes, simply stir your fingers around in the sand. Or as an alternative, just buy some Malaysian Trumpet Snails (They bury themselves deeper than what other snails would and will pop the nitrogen pockets for you instead. If you plan on keeping the tank planted, don’t bother vacuuming the tank, just do a regular water change.

I use black aqua soil in my 10 gallon sorority and the females don’t mind it at all. The black makes the green from the plants pop more as well.

Filter:

Now you will need to look for a nice filter for the tank, just like any other tank. The filter rules applies to this tank just as it does any other tank. Just in case you don’t know, I will teach you. Generally you will be wanting a filter that turns over the water 8X – 10X the water volume and that equals the amount of GPH (Gallons Per Hour) required for the filter. So basically: 10 gallons X 10 = 100 GPH, 30 gallons X 10 = 300 GPH, 55 gallons X 10 = 550 GPH, and so on. I would recommend that you use 10X (I personally the most filtration I can get on a tank without a problem). So when choosing your filter, make sure that it you look at the GPH of the filter prior to purchase (It should be somewhere on the back or bottom or wherever). The only thing that you need to watch out for is if the flow is strong on the filter or not (Bettas are not very found of strong flows at all) – if your filter does have a strong flow, add some filter floss at the output (Put enough so that the flow is reduced, but not stopped).

If you plan on having no filter on your tank and daily 100% water changes a day, that’s fine too. It’s a lot of work, but I love that people are that dedicated to their fish. Just make sure to include plants in your tank because they work as a form of filtration by neutralizing all the waste your fish make, and making the water safe for your fish.

I personally recommend the AquaClear series for smaller tanks because they don’t produce much of a strong flow and the flow is adjustable. I have an AC20 on my 10 gallon sorority and a AC30 on my 10 gallon Endler breeding tank and neither the bettas or endlers are bothered by the soft flow.

Heater & Thermometer:

Another important need for a Betta sorority (Really any tank) is a heater. Bettas are a Tropical species and will always do better in warmer waters than cooler waters (Although they can survive in cooler waters, again they are a tropical fish, would not be as comfortable and would have some health issues as well). If you plan on heating your tank simply by room temperature, that’s your choice. Now, you will need to look for a heater that will be able to heat the tank up to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (As in some situations you may need it). A good general rule to choosing a heater is using the 50 watts per 10 gallon rule.

As for a thermometer, don’t buy the ones that stick to the glass as they are inaccurate. Use glass thermometers, they will most likely give the most accurate result. You may even get an electronic thermometer. I personally like the electronic thermometer, easy to use and doesn’t take much space.

Decorations:

This is one of the most important things to focus on when keeping a sorority. Each of the females will need to claim their own territory or “home” that they can patrol around and hide in when necessary. There are many decorations to choose from, but I would recommend that you at least have a few caves and quite a few plants (Real or fake) in there with them. If you look to use fake plants, I recommend that you use silk plants so they won’t rip the bettas fins (There are a few plastic plants that will work, but you will have to test the plastic plants before you put them in your tank. To perform this test, you will need to get a piece of panty hose and run it across the fake plant – if the panty hose goes over the plant just fine, the plant is safe, if it snags, it will most likely do the same thing to your bettas fins).

If you plan on making your tank planted, go ahead, it’ll make it seem more natural for your Bettas. But if you do plant the tank, make sure that you meet the requirements of the plant you have.

I have live and plastic plants in my sorority currently as well as a few caves and my bettas love it. I plan on removing the plastic plants soon and make it all real plants.

Picking and Adding your Betta Females:

First and foremost, before you add any females to your tank, make sure that the tank is cycled and ready for their introduction. When choosing your Bettas, get them from a good source. If you can, try and get sisters as they would have been together since they were hatched and would be used to each other, however this is not always possible. Also, make sure that they are generally all the same size, none bigger and smaller than the others.

Now, adding the female Bettas is not the same as adding other fish, like 2 to 3 at a time. You have to add the Bettas all within the same time, if not, you would most definitely have to rearrange your tank and try to introduce them together again. Now, the technique that I am about to tell you was picked up a long time ago from another longtime fishkeeper and always has worked for me. You start with your most passive female, put her in the tank and give her 15 or 20 minutes to nose around and check things out. Then you add the next least aggressive female and watch them closely, always being ready to pull one out immediately if things get too rough. A small amount of fin nipping and body slamming is to be expected, but if you see one aggressively attacking another then it is time to make other arrangements for one of them. Continue to add your females, one every 15 to 20 minutes in the order of most passive to most aggressive with your most aggressive Female going in last.

Watch the tank carefully the next week or two. At first, the females will be chasing and nipping each other, but it shouldn’t be too bad. Eventually, they will most likely form a pecking order among themselves and all the fighting will subside.

Make sure not to overstock the tank either, 6 is the max female bettas, 4 is the minimum (but I would really recommend that 6 is the minimum as well). Bettas, unlike other fish, seem to like it overcrowded with other female Bettas. If you decide to add more fish, besides bettas, I would recommend that you get a bigger tank and compatible tanks-mates.

That pretty much covers all the basics to keeping a female Betta sorority tank. But always have a back-up plan in case that any female Betta you have is too aggressive to be kept in a sorority and must be kept by itself.

Source: https://coastgemusa.com/blogs/info/how-to-start-a-female-betta-sorority-tank