Notes & Documents
Shed Build Ideas
Chicken Coop Roof & Gutter System
A gutter system for rainwater collection on a chicken coop is definitely doable. There are a few ways to approach it, depending on your material choice for the roof.
Here are a few good starting points:
- DIY PVC Gutter System – If you want something lightweight and easy to modify, PVC pipe split in half lengthwise can work as a small-scale gutter. There are quite a few tutorials online for using heat to shape PVC into a functional gutter.
- Metal or Vinyl Gutters – You can use standard aluminum or vinyl gutters from a hardware store and cut them to size. The challenge will be ensuring proper slope and securing them to the structure.
- Corrugated Roof Water Collection – If you go with galvanized steel sheets, you can make a simple gutter using another piece of metal bent into a U-shape or attach a pre-made gutter along the lower edge. A lot of homesteaders have shared methods on YouTube for rainwater collection from corrugated metal roofing.
- Rainwater Diverter & Barrel Setup – To prevent overflow, you can add a simple downspout diverter to redirect excess water once the barrel is full.
Let me do a quick search for some solid tutorials or plans. One sec! 👍
That sounds like a fantastic project! Setting up a gutter system to channel rainwater from your chicken coop’s roof into a rain barrel is both eco-friendly and practical. Here’s how you can approach this:
1. Choosing the Roof Material:
- Translucent Vinyl Roofing: This material is lightweight and allows natural light into the coop. It’s relatively easy to work with and can be cut to size with standard tools.
- Galvanized Steel Sheets: Durable and long-lasting, galvanized steel provides excellent protection against the elements. However, it requires proper tools for cutting and handling due to its weight and rigidity.
2. Installing the Gutter System:
Regardless of the roofing material you choose, installing a gutter system involves similar steps:
- Measure and Plan: Determine the length of the roof edge where the gutter will be installed. Plan for a slight slope (about 1/2 inch for every 10 feet) towards the downspout to ensure proper water flow.
- Select Gutter Material: Vinyl gutters are lightweight and easy to install, making them suitable for DIY projects. Aluminum gutters are also a good option due to their durability and resistance to rust.
- Install Gutter Hangers: Attach gutter hangers along the fascia board of the roof, spacing them about 24 inches apart. Ensure they follow the planned slope.
- Attach the Gutter: Cut the gutter to the required length and secure it onto the hangers. Seal any joints to prevent leaks.
- Install the Downspout: Attach a downspout to the gutter’s endpoint, directing it towards your rain barrel. Use elbows as needed to navigate the downspout’s path.
For a visual guide on installing gutters on a metal roof, you might find this video helpful:
3. Setting Up the Rain Barrel:
- Positioning: Place the rain barrel on a stable, elevated platform near the downspout to facilitate water flow and access.
- Connecting the Downspout: Direct the downspout into the top of the rain barrel. Consider installing a downspout diverter to channel water into the barrel and redirect overflow away from the coop.
- Overflow Management: Ensure the rain barrel has an overflow outlet. Attach a hose to this outlet to direct excess water away from the coop, preventing potential flooding.
For detailed instructions on installing a rain barrel, refer to this guide:
4. Additional Considerations:
- Water Quality: Regularly clean the gutter and rain barrel to prevent debris buildup, which can affect water quality.
- Safety: Secure the rain barrel to prevent tipping, especially if you have children or animals around.
- Winter Preparation: In colder climates, consider disconnecting the rain barrel during winter to prevent freezing and potential damage.
By following these steps, you’ll create an efficient rainwater collection system for your chicken coop, promoting sustainability and providing a convenient water source for your flock.
Raised Garden Bed Samples
Raised beds can be built on hillsides to improve drainage, extend the growing season, and make gardening easier.
Benefits
- Improved drainage: Raised beds on hillsides can improve drainage.
- Extended growing season: Raised beds on hillsides can extend the growing season.
- Even water and nutrient distribution: Raised beds on hillsides can help ensure even water and nutrient distribution.
- Reduced erosion: Raised beds on hillsides can reduce erosion.
- Less weed growth: Raised beds on hillsides can reduce weed growth.
- More control over soil quality: Raised beds on hillsides can give you more control over soil quality.
- Easier gardening: Raised beds on hillsides can make gardening easier.
Construction
- Dig out footing to approximate level.
- Add a thin layer of gravel to the footing for better drainage.
- Assemble the bottom layer.
- Cut and attach upper course boards.
- Attach end boards to the frame.
- Fill the bed with soil.
- Cut and attach seat rail boards.
Tips
- For very steep slopes, you may need to build beds on top of each other.
- You can use stakes to help ensure the bed is stable.
- You can use braces to secure the corners and boards.
- You can use a plastic damp proof membrane to line the bed.
You can also watch this video to learn how to build a raised garden bed on a slope:
Fun concepts to consider:
(Corten Steel Fence)
Roof Over Chicken Run
To ensure the peak of your plexiglass-covered chicken run is watertight, here are a few good options:
1. Use a Ridge Cap
A polycarbonate or metal ridge cap is the best option for sealing the peak. These are designed to bridge the gap between sloped panels and prevent leaks. You can find them in clear or tinted polycarbonate to match your plexiglass.
- Overlap the ridge cap onto both sides of the plexiglass panels.
- Use butyl tape or silicone sealant along the edges where the ridge cap meets the panels.
- Secure it with screws, using rubber washer roofing screws to prevent leaks.
2. Overlapping the Plexiglass Panels
If a ridge cap isn’t an option, you can slightly overlap the plexiglass sheets at the peak:
- Cut the top edges of the panels at an angle to meet snugly.
- Allow for a 2–3″ overlap between panels.
- Apply clear silicone sealant between the overlapping edges.
- Secure with polycarbonate fasteners to avoid cracking.
3. H-Channel or U-Channel Connectors
For a cleaner look, you can use H-channel or U-channel connectors (typically made of polycarbonate or aluminum) to bridge the gap. These:
- Provide structural support.
- Prevent water seepage when used with silicone sealant inside the channel.
- Allow for slight movement due to temperature changes.
4. Flashing with Waterproof Tape
If you’re using a wooden ridge beam under the peak, you can:
Use EPDM or butyl waterproof tape along the joints for extra sealing.
Attach flashing (aluminum or polycarbonate) over the peak.
Chicken Dust Bath “Recipe”
Create dust bath in an old tire.
Chicken Dust Bath “Recipe”:
Diatomaceous Earth (Food Grade) – Add a small amount (about 1 cup per 5 gallons of the mix). This helps to control parasites like mites and lice, but it should be used sparingly because too much can irritate their respiratory system.
Dirt – Start with about 2-3 inches of dry, loose dirt or soil as the base. This provides the primary surface for the chickens to dig into.
Sand – Add a layer of fine, dry sand (about 1-2 inches). Sand helps to absorb moisture, dries out the dust bath, and makes it easy for chickens to fluff their feathers.
Wood Ash – Add about 1-2 cups of wood ash for every 5 gallons of the dust bath mix. Wood ash helps with keeping the bath dry and also has natural pest-repelling properties.
Dried Herbs – A little something extra for the girls to enjoy 🙂
Baby Chicks – Care, Feeding, and Supplies Needed
Here’s a summary of everything you need to care for baby chicks so they grow up happy and healthy.
Essential Supplies for Raising Baby Chicks
- Brooder Box – A safe, enclosed space to keep chicks warm. A large plastic tote, stock tank, or wooden box lined with something easy to clean works well.
- Heat Source – Chicks need a consistent heat source.
- Best option: A heat plate brooder (safer, mimics a mother hen).
- Other option: A heat lamp (use a red bulb to reduce stress and avoid overheating).
- Temperature:
- First week: 95°F
- Lower by 5°F each week until they are fully feathered (~6 weeks).
- Bedding – Pine shavings are best (not cedar—it’s toxic). Paper towels can be used for the first few days to help them learn to eat. Avoid slippery surfaces like newspaper.
- Feeder & Chick Starter Feed –
- Use chick starter feed (medicated or non-medicated depending on if you vaccinate for coccidiosis).
- Keep feed available at all times.
- Waterer & Fresh Water –
- Use a shallow chick waterer to prevent drowning.
- Add clean marbles or pebbles to the dish for the first week to keep them safe.
- Change water daily to avoid contamination.
- Electrolytes & Probiotics – Helpful for the first few days to prevent stress and dehydration.
- Grit (optional, but helpful if giving treats) – Chicks don’t need grit if only eating starter ,feed, but they do if you give them anything else.
For a safe and effective brooder heater, a heat plate or a ceramic heat emitter are both excellent choices. Here’s a breakdown of options you can consider:
1. Brooder Heat Plate (Recommended for Safety and Efficiency)
A heat plate mimics the warmth of a mother hen, offering a more natural heat source without the fire risk of a heat lamp. They are typically adjustable to different heights as the chicks grow.
- Brinsea EcoGlow 20 Brooder
- Pros: Safe, energy-efficient, adjustable height, and perfect for small to medium-sized flocks (up to 20 chicks).
- Cons: Higher initial cost, but a solid investment for multiple brooder setups over time.
- Premier 1 Supplies Brooder Heat Plate
- Pros: Adjustable, energy-efficient, and provides a natural heat source, similar to a mother hen.
- Cons: Can only be used in a safe, enclosed brooder area (like your kiddie pool setup).
2. Ceramic Heat Emitter (If You Prefer a Non-Lighting Heat Source)
Ceramic heat emitters provide heat without light, which can help prevent chicks from getting overly stressed by bright lights.
- Zoo Med ReptiTherm Ceramic Heat Emitter
- Pros: Provides steady, non-light heat, easy to mount in a brooder, safe for long-term use.
- Cons: Requires a heat lamp fixture and a thermostat to control the temperature.
3. Infrared Heat Lamp (If You Prefer a Light-Based Heat Source)
While heat lamps can work, they come with more safety risks, especially if knocked over or improperly secured. If you decide to go with one, consider a red or amber bulb to avoid startling the chicks with harsh light.
- Mighty Nest LED Heat Lamp
- Pros: Low wattage LED, safer than traditional incandescent lamps.
- Cons: It may not heat as efficiently as heat plates, so ensure the temperature stays stable.
General Tips:
- Thermometers: Use a thermometer to keep track of the temperature in the brooder. The ideal temperature starts at around 95°F in the first week, and you can decrease it by about 5°F each week until they’re fully feathered (around 6-8 weeks).
- Safety: No matter the heat source, make sure everything is secure to prevent fire hazards. For heat lamps, use a clamp or guard to secure the lamp in place.
Given your cozy porch setup, I’d recommend going with a heat plate or ceramic emitter for the safest, most consistent heat without the worry of fires.
Daily Care for Baby Chicks
- Temperature Check: If chicks huddle together under the heat source, they’re too cold. If they spread far away, it’s too hot. If they move around happily, it’s just right.
- Food & Water: Make sure they always have fresh feed and water.
- Bedding Maintenance: Spot-clean daily and do a full bedding change as needed.
- Socialization: Handle them gently every day so they get used to you. Sitting quietly near the brooder and letting them approach your hand helps build trust.
- Health Checks: Look for signs of pasty butt (dried poop blocking the vent). If you see it, gently clean with a warm, damp cloth to prevent health issues.
Hatchery & Farm Store Recommendations
If you decide to order chicks, here are some good sources that ship to Michigan:
1. Meyer Hatchery (Ohio)
- One of the best hatcheries in the Midwest—great for cold-hardy breeds.
- Offers small orders (even just 3 chicks), which is great for backyard flocks.
- Has a wide selection, including Easter Eggers, Buff Orpingtons, and Plymouth Rocks.
- Website
2. Murray McMurray Hatchery (Iowa)
- High-quality, heritage breed chickens.
- Larger order minimum, but a great reputation.
- Offers Marek’s vaccine and other health options.
- Website
3. Cackle Hatchery (Missouri)
- Known for strong, healthy chicks and a large selection.
- Offers straight run and sexed chicks.
- Website
4. Local Farm Stores (Tractor Supply, Rural King, Family Farm & Home)
- Many stores start carrying chicks in late February or March.
- Check breed availability early—they often sell out fast!
- Store chicks may be a little more stressed from travel, so check for pasty butt when selecting.
Great Cold-Hardy Breeds for a Mixed Flock in Michigan
Since you want good layers that can handle Michigan winters, here are some great options that also tend to be friendly and easygoing:
- Buff Orpingtons – Super sweet, great layers, and very cold-hardy.
- Plymouth Rocks (Barred or White) – Reliable layers with fun personalities.
- Easter Eggers – Lay blue, green, or even pinkish eggs—fun variety!
- Australorps – Black, glossy birds with great egg production and gentle temperaments.
- Speckled Sussex – Friendly, curious, and beautiful feather patterning.
- Wyandottes (Silver or Gold Laced) – Cold-hardy, gorgeous, and great layers.
- Brahmas – Big, fluffy birds with feathered feet; very cold-resistant.
All of these breeds should get along well, especially if they’re raised together from chicks. If you get them from your friend, you might get a surprise mix depending on what breeds her rooster has been mingling with!
ChatGPT said:
Got it! That means you’ll want sexed pullets (female chicks) to avoid ending up with an unexpected rooster. If you’re getting chicks from your friend, you might want to ask if she knows how to sex them or if she has older pullets available—otherwise, with straight-run chicks, there’s always a chance of getting a rooster or two.
If you do end up with a surprise roo, you’ll have some time before he starts crowing (usually around 12-16 weeks). But since you can’t keep one, it might be good to have a plan for rehoming, just in case!
Chick Nursery Setup
We have a cozy four-season porch. I was planning on keeping them in an a protected cat “play pen” and placing a 4’ wide “kiddie pool” inside into which I’ll place the bedding, brooder heater, food and water, etc.
ChatGPT said:
That sounds like an ideal setup! The four-season porch will give them a safe, warm space with some natural light, and the cat playpen will add extra protection. A kiddie pool is a great idea—it’s spacious and easy to clean.
A Few Tips for Your Setup:
- Draft Protection: Since your porch might be a bit cooler than indoors, you might want to add a wind-block (like cardboard or foam board) around the sides of the playpen to keep drafts out.
- Brooder Heater Placement: If using a heat plate, make sure it has room for chicks to move in and out freely. If using a heat lamp, clamp it securely and double-check the height to maintain the right temp.
- Escape Prevention: As they grow, chicks will start testing their wings by about 2-3 weeks old. A mesh cover (or hardware cloth) over the top will keep them from flying out of the pool.
- Easy Cleaning: Lining the bottom with puppy pads under the bedding can make cleanup easier. Spot-clean daily to keep things dry and reduce odor.
ChatGPT said:
That sounds like a perfect number—small enough to manage easily but still giving them a little flock dynamic! Plus, with a cozy brooder setup, they’ll stay warm and social without overcrowding.
Since you’ll only have 3-4, you might want to aim for docile, friendly breeds that will integrate well together. If you’re getting them from a hatchery or farm store, you can probably choose exactly which ones you want. But if you’re getting them from your friend, you might get some fun surprise genetics!
ChatGPT said:
That’s perfect! Handling them daily from a young age will make a huge difference in how friendly and social they become.
Tips for Raising Extra-Friendly Chicks:
- Hand-Feeding Treats: Once they’re a few days old, try offering small treats like scrambled eggs or finely crushed mealworms from your hand—they’ll start associating you with good things!
- Talking to Them: Chicks get used to voices quickly. Talking softly while feeding or cleaning helps them recognize you as safe.
- Slow Movements: Move gently when reaching into the brooder so they don’t get startled.
- Lap Time: Once they’re comfortable, let them perch on your hand or sit with them in your lap. They’ll start seeking you out for warmth and comfort.
- Finger Perching: Encourage them to hop onto your finger/hand by placing it in front of them—this builds trust and makes future handling easier.
By the time they move to the coop, they’ll likely follow you around and come running when they see you!
There are a few key medications and vaccinations that are commonly recommended for chickens to ensure they stay strong and disease-free.
Essential Vaccinations for Chicks:
- Marek’s Disease Vaccine
- When: Given at the hatchery (usually day 1 for chicks) or within the first week if you’re raising them yourself.
- Why: Marek’s Disease is a viral disease that affects chickens’ nervous systems. Vaccination is highly recommended to prevent it, as it’s easily spread.
- Coccidiosis Vaccine (Coccivac)
- When: Typically given at day 1 (or within the first few days after hatching).
- Why: Coccidiosis is a common parasitic infection that can cause digestive distress. Vaccinating against it helps protect your chicks as their immune systems develop.
- Newcastle Disease and Infectious Bronchitis
- When: Some hatcheries provide a combination vaccine for these diseases. Otherwise, the vaccine is given later, around 6-8 weeks, if needed.
- Why: These are viral respiratory diseases that can spread rapidly among flocks, causing high mortality in young birds.
Other Health Considerations:
- Deworming:
- When: Chickens are usually dewormed at around 8 weeks and then every 6 months or as needed, based on local parasite risks.
- Why: Worms can cause weight loss, lethargy, and digestive issues in chickens. Common dewormers include Ivermectin or Fenbendazole, but always check with your vet for the best option for your area.
- Feather Mites or Lice Treatment:
- When: If you notice signs of feather mites or lice (like scratching or visible bugs), treat your chickens with a poultry dust or an insecticidal spray that’s safe for birds.
- Why: External parasites can cause discomfort, skin irritation, and even anemia in severe cases. Regular monitoring and cleaning of the coop can help prevent infestations.
Basic Care Tips:
- Clean Water: Make sure they always have access to fresh, clean water to help with digestion and overall health.
- Good Nutrition: A high-quality chick starter feed helps them grow strong and builds immunity to infections. Once they’re older, you can switch to layer feed with added calcium.
- Monitoring: Keep an eye out for signs of illness (lethargy, changes in egg production, diarrhea) and seek vet advice if needed.
You can order both vaccines and dewormers online, but it’s important to make sure you’re getting them from reputable sources that specialize in poultry care. Here are some places where you can find what you need:
For Vaccines:
- Meyer Hatchery
- They offer various vaccines like the Marek’s Disease vaccine and Coccivac, which can be shipped directly to you when you order chicks or separately.
- Ideal Poultry
- This site provides poultry vaccinations, including the Marek’s and Coccidia vaccines, for both chicks and adult chickens.
- Tractor Supply Co.
- You can find poultry vaccines in-store or online, including common ones like Marek’s and Newcastle Disease.
- First State Veterinary Supply
- Specializes in veterinary supplies and vaccines, including poultry products.
For Dewormers:
- Farm & Fleet
- They offer various dewormers, including Ivermectin and Fenbendazole, for poultry.
- The Chicken Chick’s Online Store
- You can find a range of poultry supplies, including natural deworming options.
- Amazon
- A wide selection of poultry dewormers, though be sure to check reviews and ensure the product is safe for chickens.
A Few Things to Keep in Mind:
- Consult with a vet if you’re unsure which specific vaccines or dewormers your chickens need based on your region.
- Shipping Restrictions: Some states may have restrictions on shipping live vaccines or certain medications, so it’s always a good idea to check local regulations.
Gas Burner: Extinction Pop
If the gas in the burner is moving fast enough, the gas can’t burn down inside the burner and must burn on top of the burner where it should. If it’s moving too slowly (as it is when the gas is shut off) there is a tendency for the gas to burn down inside the burner tube, causing the extinction pop.
So you probably need to lool for ways to increase the gas flow through the burner a bit — by checking to make sure you have a properly sized burner orifice, proper manifold gas pressure and a properly adjusted and clean primary air shutter.
This is not generally a hazard —just an annoyance.
If your gas burner doesn’t immediately turn off when you switch it off and then “explodes,” it likely means there’s a buildup of gas around the burner due to a faulty valve or a clogged burner port, causing a sudden ignition when enough gas accumulates and finds an ignition source, which could be a spark from the igniter or even just a nearby flame; this is a serious safety concern and you should immediately turn off the gas supply to your stove and call a professional appliance repair technician to diagnose and fix the issue.
Possible reasons for this problem:
- Faulty burner valve:The valve might not be closing completely, allowing gas to continue leaking even when the knob is turned off.
- Clogged burner ports:Grease or debris can build up in the burner holes, disrupting the gas flow and causing uneven burning or delayed ignition.
- Damaged flame spreader:The metal plate distributing the flame could be damaged, causing gas to escape unevenly.
- Faulty thermocouple:This safety device, which keeps the gas valve open when a flame is present, might be malfunctioning, allowing gas to continue flowing even when the flame is extinguished.
What to do:
- Turn off the gas supply:Immediately locate the gas shut-off valve under your stove or near your gas line and turn it off.
- Do not attempt to light the burner:Do not try to light the burner yourself as this could worsen the situation.
- Ventilate the area:Open windows and doors to air out the kitchen.
- Call a professional:Contact a licensed appliance repair technician to diagnose and fix the problem.
Important safety points to remember:
- Never ignore gas leaks: If you smell gas, evacuate your home immediately and call the gas company.
- Regular maintenance: Clean your stovetop regularly to prevent buildup of grease and food debris on the burner.
- Inspect burner components: Check the burner ports for clogs and ensure the flame spreader is properly seated.
Chicken Coop & Run: Defend from Predators
Top 10 Ideas for a Predator-proof Chicken Coop
Written byJoseph Truini
Chicken rearing can be a great hobby, but protecting your flock from predators can be challenging. This is especially true considering that both chicken and their eggs are prey for a wide range of predators. From hawks and eagles to land predators like raccoons, coyotes, foxes, bobcats, weasels’ skunks, snakes, and even neighbourhood dogs, chickens have many hungry enemies. Worse, it can take only one voracious predator to wipe out your entire flock. The best way to avoid the heartbreak of losing any of your beloved birds is to make your chicken coop predator-proof. Here are 10 ways and tips to secure your chicken coop and protect your flock against predators.
1. Elevate your chicken coop
Raising your chicken coop off the ground offers a host of worthwhile benefits. Besides naturally protecting your flock from burrowing animals, elevating your coop prevents moisture buildup and wood rot, which can create access points into the coop. Preventing moisture buildup also helps the wood last longer.
Ideally, you want to raise your coop at least 12 inches off the ground. The space underneath provides extra space for your chickens to roam and scratch while offering shelter from aerial predators, inclement weather, and the afternoon sun.
Notably, no matter how high you raise your coop, you will still need solid flooring to ensure predators that can take unorthodox approaches can’t break into the coop from underneath.
2. Use hardware cloth
While the chicken wire is a more economical choice for constructing chicken runs, it doesn’t stand up well against many predators. Simply, it is designed to keep chickens in, not predators out. That’s why you should consider hardware cloth wherever you would use chicken wire. This includes on windows, the run, and around the bottom of the coop.
Hardware cloth is rigid to deter raccoons and foxes and has small openings so hawks can’t reach chickens with their talons. The small openings also help keep snakes and members of the weasel family from burrowing and breaking into the coop or running.
3. Install a predator apron
Having a concrete or any other deterrent floor can keep predators from digging into the coop, but what about the run where your chickens spend their daytime? To outsmart sly predators like foxes, bobcats, and raccoons, install a predator apron around the perimeter of your chicken run: dig a 12-inch-deep trench around the coop and run, and then bury the hardware cloth in the ground.
This won’t stop cunny predators from digging, but it will keep them from getting into the run or coop. Because predators can’t see the buried hardware cloth, they will start to dig until they encounter the formidable barrier. Without the hardware-cloth apron, predators can possibly dig into the run and prey on your chickens or their eggs.
4. Fortifying the Run: Top to Bottom
Ensuring the security of your chickens encompasses safeguarding them from aerial as well as ground-based threats. Covering the run significantly mitigates the risk posed by these predators, whether you reside in urban or rural settings.
A covered run acts as a deterrent against flying and climbing predators like eagles, hawks, falcons, and owls. Utilizing a solid roof or a covering of hardware cloth is advocated for optimal protection. Budget-conscious poultry enthusiasts might opt for stringing netting across the top of the run, although it’s less effective against climbing predators capable of chewing through the netting.
In scenarios where the threat level is pronounced, amplifying the security measures is a logical step. For those managing small to medium chicken coops, enveloping the entire floor of the run with hardware cloth provides an additional tier of predator-proof protection. While this method may stretch your budget, it serves as a robust defense against the anguish associated with losing your birds to predators. For larger runs, a cost-effective alternative could be laying down hardware cloth a few feet around the inside perimeter of the run, instead of covering the entire floor, providing a substantial level of protection without incurring excessive expenses.
The amalgamation of covering both the top and the bottom of the run, perhaps coupled with a predator proof chicken coop, substantially enhances the safety of your flock, forming a fortified haven against the myriad of predators lurking around.
The idea is to fully protect your birds from predators, including the sly ones, which can take unconventional approaches. All in all, you should ONLY commit to covering the entire floor with hardware cloth if it is absolutely necessary.
5. Close the coop and run doors at dusk
Nocturnal predators can appear anytime after dusk and prey on your beloved feathered friends. To protect your flock from diurnal predators that might hunt until late evening and nocturnal predators that might begin hunting prematurely, close and lock the coop and run doors as soon as all your birds have entered their coop.
When you are away from home and not able to lock up the coop and run at dusk, take advantage of modern technology. There is no shortage of automatic coop doors that you can program to suit your needs.
Notably, even with an automatic coop door, it is imperative always to check your coop when back home to ensure all the birds are in and secured. An opossum can come in at dusk and deliberately hide in the run to wait to treat itself in the morning.
6. Eliminate food and things that attract wildlife to your chicken coop
The prime idea behind predator-proofing your chicken coop is to protect your flock against attacks. So, along with securing your coop, it is also crucial to avoid things that might attract predators to your coop.
One of the things that attract a variety of predators and pests to your coop is chicken feed. Finding a safe place outside the coop to keep the chicken feed at night can help minimize threats. Alternatively, you can use treadle feeders, which conceal the feed, lowering the temptation for rodents and other egg predators to come in.
If you’re fond of feeding your chickens treats, check and clean up any scraps your birds don’t eat.
7. Use guardian animals
To the surprise of many, pets can give your chicken much-needed protection. Geese, guineas, donkeys, llamas, some breeds of dogs, and even roosters have a reputation for being excellent flock guardians.
You can take advantage of these guardian animals to protect your flock. Roosters can sacrifice their own life battling a predator to protect their hens. On the other hand, a guardian dog will naturally spend time patrolling your property and bark at any predator that shows up to scare it away as it alerts you.
For chicken growers considering a guardian dog, Great Pyrenees, Maremmas, Anatolian Shepherds, and Akbash have excellent guarding instincts. You want to be cautious not to adopt a dog that will prey on your chickens instead of protecting them.
If you live in rural areas where livestock codes are relatively forgiving, you will have a wide range of options regarding what guardian animals you can keep.
8. Provide indoor roosts and train them to return to the coop before dusk
Chickens are more vulnerable when asleep. Thankfully, they instinctively sleep off the ground. Furnishing your chicken coop with enough roosting bars can ensure that your birds remain safe, even if predators make it into the coop. Besides, indoor roosts ensure your chickens are not tempted to roost outside, where they can be easy prey.
Even with roosts, you will want to train your chickens to retreat into the coop as the daylight fades, as a number of predators are usually active at this time. And as with training other pets, training chickens is based on a reward system. Reward your birds with feed or treats in the evening to encourage them to return to the coop some minutes before nightfall. It won’t take long before they learn to flock to their home at dusk.
9. Use secure door latches and two-step locks
Some predators, like raccoons, are intelligent and adept at opening latches and simple locks. Yes, they have mastered how latches work.
To deter a determined raccoon, use a lock that requires opposable thumbs to open. Such locks will prove bothersome, leaving predators with the option to leave.
10. Use predator deterrent accessories
Besides making your chicken coop predator-proof, you can tap on the benefits of deterrents like lights with a motion sensor, electric chicken fencing, and decoy animals.
Although the effectiveness of these deterrents varies, combining them with proven methods can ensure you don’t lose any of your birds to predators.
https://easycoops.com/predator-proof-chicken-coop