Roof Over Chicken Run

To ensure the peak of your plexiglass-covered chicken run is watertight, here are a few good options:

1. Use a Ridge Cap

A polycarbonate or metal ridge cap is the best option for sealing the peak. These are designed to bridge the gap between sloped panels and prevent leaks. You can find them in clear or tinted polycarbonate to match your plexiglass.

  • Overlap the ridge cap onto both sides of the plexiglass panels.
  • Use butyl tape or silicone sealant along the edges where the ridge cap meets the panels.
  • Secure it with screws, using rubber washer roofing screws to prevent leaks.

2. Overlapping the Plexiglass Panels

If a ridge cap isn’t an option, you can slightly overlap the plexiglass sheets at the peak:

  • Cut the top edges of the panels at an angle to meet snugly.
  • Allow for a 2–3″ overlap between panels.
  • Apply clear silicone sealant between the overlapping edges.
  • Secure with polycarbonate fasteners to avoid cracking.

3. H-Channel or U-Channel Connectors

For a cleaner look, you can use H-channel or U-channel connectors (typically made of polycarbonate or aluminum) to bridge the gap. These:

  • Provide structural support.
  • Prevent water seepage when used with silicone sealant inside the channel.
  • Allow for slight movement due to temperature changes.

4. Flashing with Waterproof Tape

If you’re using a wooden ridge beam under the peak, you can:

Use EPDM or butyl waterproof tape along the joints for extra sealing.

Attach flashing (aluminum or polycarbonate) over the peak.

Chicken Coop & Run: Defend from Predators

Top 10 Ideas for a Predator-proof Chicken Coop

Written byJoseph Truini

Chicken rearing can be a great hobby, but protecting your flock from predators can be challenging. This is especially true considering that both chicken and their eggs are prey for a wide range of predators. From hawks and eagles to land predators like raccoons, coyotes, foxes, bobcats, weasels’ skunks, snakes, and even neighbourhood dogs, chickens have many hungry enemies. Worse, it can take only one voracious predator to wipe out your entire flock. The best way to avoid the heartbreak of losing any of your beloved birds is to make your chicken coop predator-proof. Here are 10 ways and tips to secure your chicken coop and protect your flock against predators.

1. Elevate your chicken coop

Raising your chicken coop off the ground offers a host of worthwhile benefits. Besides naturally protecting your flock from burrowing animals, elevating your coop prevents moisture buildup and wood rot, which can create access points into the coop. Preventing moisture buildup also helps the wood last longer.

Ideally, you want to raise your coop at least 12 inches off the ground. The space underneath provides extra space for your chickens to roam and scratch while offering shelter from aerial predators, inclement weather, and the afternoon sun.

Elevated chicken coop from predators
Elevate your chicken coop at least 12″ from the ground

Notably, no matter how high you raise your coop, you will still need solid flooring to ensure predators that can take unorthodox approaches can’t break into the coop from underneath.

2. Use hardware cloth

While the chicken wire is a more economical choice for constructing chicken runs, it doesn’t stand up well against many predators. Simply, it is designed to keep chickens in, not predators out. That’s why you should consider hardware cloth wherever you would use chicken wire. This includes on windows, the run, and around the bottom of the coop.

Hardware cloth is rigid to deter raccoons and foxes and has small openings so hawks can’t reach chickens with their talons. The small openings also help keep snakes and members of the weasel family from burrowing and breaking into the coop or running.

3. Install a predator apron

Having a concrete or any other deterrent floor can keep predators from digging into the coop, but what about the run where your chickens spend their daytime? To outsmart sly predators like foxes, bobcats, and raccoons, install a predator apron around the perimeter of your chicken run: dig a 12-inch-deep trench around the coop and run, and then bury the hardware cloth in the ground.

12-inch-deep trench around the coop and run, with buried hardware cloth
Protect your chicken coop with 12″ deep hardware cloth buried underground

This won’t stop cunny predators from digging, but it will keep them from getting into the run or coop. Because predators can’t see the buried hardware cloth, they will start to dig until they encounter the formidable barrier. Without the hardware-cloth apron, predators can possibly dig into the run and prey on your chickens or their eggs.

4. Fortifying the Run: Top to Bottom

Ensuring the security of your chickens encompasses safeguarding them from aerial as well as ground-based threats. Covering the run significantly mitigates the risk posed by these predators, whether you reside in urban or rural settings.

A covered run acts as a deterrent against flying and climbing predators like eagles, hawks, falcons, and owls. Utilizing a solid roof or a covering of hardware cloth is advocated for optimal protection. Budget-conscious poultry enthusiasts might opt for stringing netting across the top of the run, although it’s less effective against climbing predators capable of chewing through the netting.

In scenarios where the threat level is pronounced, amplifying the security measures is a logical step. For those managing small to medium chicken coops, enveloping the entire floor of the run with hardware cloth provides an additional tier of predator-proof protection. While this method may stretch your budget, it serves as a robust defense against the anguish associated with losing your birds to predators. For larger runs, a cost-effective alternative could be laying down hardware cloth a few feet around the inside perimeter of the run, instead of covering the entire floor, providing a substantial level of protection without incurring excessive expenses.

The amalgamation of covering both the top and the bottom of the run, perhaps coupled with a predator proof chicken coop, substantially enhances the safety of your flock, forming a fortified haven against the myriad of predators lurking around.

hardware cloth around the chicken coop run
Lay down hardware cloth a few feet around the inside perimeter of the chicken run

The idea is to fully protect your birds from predators, including the sly ones, which can take unconventional approaches. All in all, you should ONLY commit to covering the entire floor with hardware cloth if it is absolutely necessary. 

5. Close the coop and run doors at dusk

Nocturnal predators can appear anytime after dusk and prey on your beloved feathered friends. To protect your flock from diurnal predators that might hunt until late evening and nocturnal predators that might begin hunting prematurely, close and lock the coop and run doors as soon as all your birds have entered their coop. 

When you are away from home and not able to lock up the coop and run at dusk, take advantage of modern technology. There is no shortage of automatic coop doors that you can program to suit your needs.

Notably, even with an automatic coop door, it is imperative always to check your coop when back home to ensure all the birds are in and secured. An opossum can come in at dusk and deliberately hide in the run to wait to treat itself in the morning.

6. Eliminate food and things that attract wildlife to your chicken coop

The prime idea behind predator-proofing your chicken coop is to protect your flock against attacks. So, along with securing your coop, it is also crucial to avoid things that might attract predators to your coop. 

One of the things that attract a variety of predators and pests to your coop is chicken feed. Finding a safe place outside the coop to keep the chicken feed at night can help minimize threats. Alternatively, you can use treadle feeders, which conceal the feed, lowering the temptation for rodents and other egg predators to come in. 

If you’re fond of feeding your chickens treats,  check and clean up any scraps your birds don’t eat.

7. Use guardian animals

To the surprise of many, pets can give your chicken much-needed protection. Geese, guineas, donkeys, llamas, some breeds of dogs, and even roosters have a reputation for being excellent flock guardians. 

You can take advantage of these guardian animals to protect your flock. Roosters can sacrifice their own life battling a predator to protect their hens. On the other hand, a guardian dog will naturally spend time patrolling your property and bark at any predator that shows up to scare it away as it alerts you. 

For chicken growers considering a guardian dog, Great Pyrenees, Maremmas, Anatolian Shepherds, and Akbash have excellent guarding instincts. You want to be cautious not to adopt a dog that will prey on your chickens instead of protecting them. 

If you live in rural areas where livestock codes are relatively forgiving, you will have a wide range of options regarding what guardian animals you can keep. 

8. Provide indoor roosts and train them to return to the coop before dusk

Chickens are more vulnerable when asleep. Thankfully, they instinctively sleep off the ground. Furnishing your chicken coop with enough roosting bars can ensure that your birds remain safe, even if predators make it into the coop. Besides, indoor roosts ensure your chickens are not tempted to roost outside, where they can be easy prey.

Even with roosts, you will want to train your chickens to retreat into the coop as the daylight fades, as a number of predators are usually active at this time. And as with training other pets, training chickens is based on a reward system. Reward your birds with feed or treats in the evening to encourage them to return to the coop some minutes before nightfall. It won’t take long before they learn to flock to their home at dusk.

9. Use secure door latches and two-step locks

Some predators, like raccoons, are intelligent and adept at opening latches and simple locks. Yes, they have mastered how latches work.

lock system for chicken coop doors
Use secure door latches and two-step locks

To deter a determined raccoon, use a lock that requires opposable thumbs to open. Such locks will prove bothersome, leaving predators with the option to leave. 

10. Use predator deterrent accessories

Besides making your chicken coop predator-proof, you can tap on the benefits of deterrents like lights with a motion sensor, electric chicken fencing, and decoy animals. 

Although the effectiveness of these deterrents varies, combining them with proven methods can ensure you don’t lose any of your birds to predators.

https://easycoops.com/predator-proof-chicken-coop

Chicken Coop Build Considerations

  • Nice looking
  • Tidy
  • Good Run Size
  • Solar Door
  • Safety Latch/Opener (Inside Run)
  • Landscape Mesh (1/4″ black)
  • Smart Ventilation “Double Windows”
  • Simple Chain Supports
  • Solar Implementation

  • Freeze-Proof Water
  • Natural Limbs for Roosts (eg: thick birch branches)
  • Self-Closing Hinges with Latch
  • Removeable Plexi-Glass Panes for Winter
  • 4 sq ft/chicken in coop
  • 10 sq ft/chicken in enclosed run
  • Nesting Boxes: 12″x12″; One Nest Box / 3-4 hens
  • This is a 10’x16′ coop with a 10’x16′ run.
  • Heat Plate (not lamp) in coop in winter
  • Bedding: Pine shavings
  • Bury 1/4″ hardware cloth 2′ into ground to protect from burrowing animals
  • Translucent solid roof to protect from raptors and racoons
  • Line perimeter of run and coop with pavers or large stones to help prevent digging predators
  • Use bricks to raise pellet feeder and water off ground
  • Store feed and pellets and treats in galvanized trash cans
  • Food, grit, oyster shells. Purina Layena pellets
  • Chicken Guard solar door
  • Heated water dispenser for winter (Eg: All-Season Poultry Fount)

Rainwater Harvesting and Recirculation System for Greenhouses

Harvesting rain and groundwater for your greenhouse is environmentally friendly and efficient. Steps and considerations for harvesting rain and groundwater for our greenhouse:

1. French Drain System:

Source: Fine Gardening
  • Placement: Install the French drain system around the perimeter of the greenhouse to capture rainwater and prevent groundwater from entering.
  • Drainage Pipes: Use perforated pipes surrounded by gravel to allow water to flow into the pipes.

The optimal slope or angle for French drain collection pipes to ensure good water flow typically ranges between 1% and 2%. This slope allows water to move efficiently along the pipe without creating too much speed that could lead to erosion or an insufficient gradient that causes water to stagnate.

Here’s a brief explanation:

1% Slope: This is a gentler slope, suitable for areas with light to moderate rainfall. It ensures steady water flow but might require a longer drainage path.

2% Slope: This is a slightly steeper slope, allowing for effective drainage in areas with heavier rainfall. It provides quicker water movement but may be prone to erosion if not properly managed.

To calculate the necessary slope, divide the vertical drop (elevation change) by the horizontal distance. For example, if you have a 10-foot run and want a 1% slope, the drop would be 0.01 * 10 feet = 0.1 feet (or 1.2 inches).

Keep in mind that these are general guidelines, and the specific conditions of your site, soil type, and local rainfall patterns may influence the optimal slope for your French drain system. It’s crucial to ensure proper installation and backfilling with gravel to allow water to enter the perforated pipes effectively.


2. Collection Point:

  • Location: Choose a specific point where the drainage pipes converge and lead the water towards the greenhouse.
  • Beneath Foundation: Ensure the pipes enter the greenhouse beneath the shallow 12-inch foundation. Use proper waterproofing measures to prevent leaks.

3. Buried Cistern:

  • Material: Choose a durable, waterproof material for the cistern. Options include concrete, plastic, or fiberglass.
  • Size: Calculate the greenhouse roof’s runoff and the expected groundwater flow to determine the cistern size.
  • Filtration: Install filters to prevent debris from entering the cistern.

Calculating the size of the cistern needed for your rainwater harvesting system involves estimating the total volume of water you plan to capture and store. Here’s a general guideline to help you calculate the size of the cistern:

  1. Calculate Roof Area:
    • Determine the total catchment area of your greenhouse’s roof. Measure the length and width of the roof, and multiply these values to get the roof area in square feet or square meters.
  2. Calculate Rainfall Harvested:
    • Estimate the average annual rainfall for your location. This information is typically available from local weather stations. Convert this value to inches or millimeters.
  3. Calculate Rainwater Harvested:
    • Multiply the roof area by the average annual rainfall to get the total volume of rainwater harvested in cubic feet or cubic meters.
  4. Adjust for Efficiency:
    • Consider the efficiency of your rainwater harvesting system. Not all the rainfall will be captured and stored due to losses from evaporation, runoff, and system inefficiencies. A common efficiency factor is around 85-90%, so multiply the calculated rainwater harvested by this factor.
  5. Consider Water Usage Needs:
    • Determine your greenhouse’s water usage needs. This will depend on factors such as the type of plants, irrigation methods, and frequency of watering. Estimate the volume of water required over a certain period, such as a week or a month.
  6. Determine Cistern Size:
    • Compare the estimated rainwater harvested with your water usage needs. The cistern size should be large enough to meet your water demand during dry periods between rainfall events.

As an example calculation:

Cistern Size=(Roof Area×Average Annual Rainfall×Efficiency Factor)−Water Usage NeedsCistern Size=(Roof Area×Average Annual Rainfall×Efficiency Factor)−Water Usage Needs

Keep in mind that these are general guidelines, and it’s essential to tailor the calculation to your specific conditions and requirements. Consulting with a local water conservation or rainwater harvesting expert can provide valuable insights for your particular situation.


4. Pump System:

  • Submersible Pump: Use a submersible pump in the cistern to pump water to the catchment area. (Can use the Bellagio pump we initially got for the goldfish tank.)
  • Float Switch: Include a float switch to control the pump automatically based on the water level.

A float switch is a type of level sensor, a device used to detect the level of liquid within a tank. The switch may be used to control a pump, as an indicator, an alarm, or to control other devices. One type of float switch uses a mercury switch inside a hinged float. 

5. Catchment Feature:

  • Fountain or Shallow Pond: Choose a visually appealing catchment feature that promotes water circulation.
  • Aeration: Consider adding an aerator to prevent stagnation and improve water quality.

Such As:
AquaMiracle Pond Aeration Kit Koi Pond Aerator Pond Air Pump for Pond up to 15000 Gallons Pond Deicer All-in-One Pond Aeration System with Self-Sinking Airline Flow Control Rubber Air Diffuse: $149 (Amazon)


6. Overflow and Pressure Equilibrium:

  • Overflow Outlet: Install an overflow outlet at an appropriate height in the cistern to prevent overfilling.
    • An overflow outlet is a component in a water storage system, such as a cistern or a rainwater harvesting system, designed to prevent overfilling and potential damage. It provides a controlled pathway for excess water to exit the system once the storage capacity is reached.
    • In the context of a rainwater harvesting system with a cistern, the overflow outlet is typically positioned at a specific height within the cistern. When the water level in the cistern reaches this predetermined point, any additional water flows out through the overflow outlet.
    • Key features of an overflow outlet:
    • Prevention of Overfilling: The primary purpose of the overflow outlet is to prevent the water storage system from overfilling, which could lead to flooding, structural damage, or other issues.
    • Controlled Discharge: The overflow outlet allows for a controlled discharge of excess water. This helps avoid sudden and uncontrolled releases that could cause erosion or other problems in the surrounding area.
    • Protective Measures: Installing an overflow outlet is a protective measure to ensure the integrity and longevity of the water storage system.
    • Outlet Design: The overflow outlet can take various forms, such as a pipe or a channel, depending on the system’s design and requirements. It may discharge water to a designated safe area or drainage system.
    • When designing a rainwater harvesting system or any water storage system, it’s crucial to include an overflow outlet at an appropriate height to manage water levels effectively and prevent overflows. This feature helps maintain the stability and functionality of the entire system while avoiding potential damage to surrounding areas.
  • Pressure Relief Valve: Use a pressure relief valve to maintain pressure equilibrium and prevent damage to the system.
    • A pressure relief valve, also known as a pressure release valve or safety valve, is a critical component in various systems to protect them from excessive pressure. The valve is designed to automatically release or relieve pressure when it exceeds a predetermined set point. This helps prevent damage to the system, ensuring its safety and proper operation.
    • Key features of a pressure relief valve:
    • Set Pressure:
      • The valve is set to open and release pressure when the internal pressure of the system reaches a certain level. This predetermined pressure is known as the “set pressure” or “set point.”
    • Automatic Operation:
      • The pressure relief valve operates automatically without the need for manual intervention. When the pressure surpasses the set point, the valve opens to allow excess pressure to escape.
    • Safety Function:
      • The primary purpose of the pressure relief valve is to protect the system from potential damage caused by overpressure. This is crucial in applications where maintaining a specific pressure range is essential for the system’s integrity and safety.
    • Various Designs:
      • Pressure relief valves come in various designs, including spring-loaded, pilot-operated, and rupture disk types. Each design is suited to different applications and pressure conditions.
    • Installation Location:
      • Pressure relief valves are typically installed at strategic points in a system where pressure buildup is a concern. For example, they may be found in steam boilers, water heaters, pressure vessels, and other industrial or plumbing systems.
    • Certification Standards:
      • Pressure relief valves are often subject to industry standards and regulations. Ensuring that the valve complies with relevant standards is essential for maintaining system safety.
    • In the context of your rainwater harvesting and storage system, a pressure relief valve could be used to manage pressure within the system, especially if you are incorporating a pump. It helps prevent overpressurization, which could lead to equipment failure or damage. When designing your system, consult with professionals to determine if a pressure relief valve is necessary and the appropriate specifications for your specific setup.

7. Maintenance:

  • Regular Inspection: Periodically inspect the system for clogs, leaks, or any issues.
  • Clean Filters: Clean cistern filters and pump intake regularly to ensure efficient operation.

Additional Tips:

  • Rainwater Quality: Keep in mind the quality of rainwater; it may need additional filtration for greenhouse use.
  • Solar Power: Consider using solar-powered pumps for sustainability.
  • Professional Assistance: If needed, consult with a local engineer or landscape professional for specific design considerations.

Modular Hogwire Fence w/ Gate

Dropbox link for access to construction details:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/izf2e5qpie… or shoot and email to JKHartel3@gmail.com and I’ll send over the construction info.

Ready Seal Website: https://www.readyseal.com/

For this fence we used the Pecan stain.

The finish looks very much like a pecan shell. For 207 feet of this fence design I guesstimated 7 gallons for a single application, and we only used 6 gallons, leaving a gallon extra to do touch ups if necessary.

YouTube: Gator_Overland