Category: Chickens

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Deck Blocks

The grooves in a standard deck block are typically around 1.5 inches wide and 1.5 inches deep, designed to securely hold a 2×4 or 2×6 joist, depending on the specific deck block design; the post-receiving hole in the center of the block is usually sized to fit a 4×4 post. 

Key points about deck block grooves:

  • Size variation:Dimensions can slightly differ based on the manufacturer and model of the deck block. 
  • Function:The grooves allow for horizontal attachment of the deck joists to the concrete block. 
  • Post support:Most deck blocks also have a central hole designed to securely hold a vertical deck post, usually a 4×4. 
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Chicken Coop Cupola

The following instructions are credited to: The Family Handyman

Introduction

Roof-top cupolas can be used for both decoration and ventilation. In the days before roof and ridge vents, a cupola was the most effective way to ventilate a stable, barn or even a house. And with new, rot-resistant materials they still work well.

Cupola Project Overview

When I decided to build a cupola to dress up my bland garage, I began by taking a walk. Most of the shed cupolas in my neighborhood are purely decorative. But the really old ones—those that sit atop garages that were once carriage houses—were built for both decoration and ventilation. In the days before roof and ridge vents, a cupola was the most effective way to ventilate a stable, barn or even a house.

Old or new, most of the cupolas I saw had some peeling paint or rotting wood. There were two typical trouble spots: the “saddle,” the part of the shed cupola that sits directly on the roof, and the “sill,” which rests on the saddle. To make my saddle maintenance-free, I wrapped it in aluminum flashing. To avoid problems at the sill, I beveled mine and left no flat areas where water could stand. I also used a vinyl brick mold, rather than wood, to frame the vents.

This article will show you how to build and install a shed cupola with these maintenance-saving features. The cupola’s structure is fairly simple, and all the dimensions, curves and angles are provided. The curved “witch’s hat” roof may look like the work of a master carpenter, but the entire cupola is an intermediate-level project. In fact, a novice with just a little carpentry experience can do a satisfactory job. After all, minor mistakes won’t be visible from the ground. But you will need several power tools (table saw, jigsaw, circular saw, drill and router) and at least three full days to build this shed cupola.

Note: A shed cupola mounted on a garage or shed will keep the building cooler in hot weather and drier during damp seasons. But for your home’s attic, a barn cupola alone doesn’t provide adequate ventilation: By itself, it doesn’t let enough air escape, nor does it provide a place for air to enter the attic. For effective ventilation, install soffit vents along with roof or ridge vents. Here’s how to install soffits that are maintenance-free.

Tools Required

  • Caulk gun
  • Clamps
  • Drill bit set
  • Drill/driver – cordless
  • Framing square
  • Hammer
  • Hearing protection
  • Jigsaw
  • Miter saw
  • Safety glasses
  • Table saw
  • Tape measure
  • Tin snips
  • Utility knife

Materials Required

  • 1-1/4-in. galvanized screws
  • 1-in. galvanized nails
  • 1/2-in. self-tapping sheet metal screws
  • 2-in. galvanized screws
  • 3-in. galvanized screws
  • 3/4-in. roofing nails
  • Acrylic caulk
  • Construction adhesive
  • Four 12 x 12-in. vinyl or aluminum gable vents. The dimensions refer to the louvered area not the vent’s frame. Our 12 x 12-in. vents measured 14-1/2 x 14-3/4 in.
  • Four 8-ft. pieces of brick mold
  • One 10-ft. long roll of aluminum flashing
  • One 4×8 sheet of 3/4-in. pressure-treated plywood
  • One 4×8 sheet of 3/8-in. plywood
  • One 8-ft. 2×2 (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in.)
  • One 8-ft. cedar 4×4 (actual size is 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 in.)
  • One bundle of shingles
  • Roof cement
  • Three 10-ft. cedar 2x6s

Project step-by-step (20)

Most home centers and lumberyards carry everything you need to build this cupola. Here’s your shopping list:

  • One 8-ft. cedar 4×4 (actual size is 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 in.)
  • Three 10-ft. cedar 2x6s
  • One 8-ft. 2×2 (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in.)
  • One 4×8 sheet of 3/8-in. plywood
  • One 4×8 sheet of 3/4-in. pressure-treated plywood
  • Four 8-ft. pieces of brick mold. Vinyl brick mold is maintenance-free, but it holds paint poorly and is usually available only in white. If you want a different color, you’ll have to use a wood brick mold.
  • Four 12 x 12-in. vinyl or aluminum gable vents. The dimensions refer to the louvered area, not the vent’s frame. Our 12 x 12-in. vents measured 14-1/2 x 14-3/4 in. Metal vents, which are usually white, can be spray painted. For a lasting paint job, lightly sand the vents with 220-grit sandpaper first.
  • One bundle of shingles. Home centers usually stock a few common colors and can special-order many others.
  • One 10-ft. long roll of aluminum flashing. Painted flashing usually comes with one side white, the other dark brown. But you can lightly sand and spray paint it after it’s applied to the saddle. The width of the flashing you need depends on the pitch of your roof; the steeper your roof, the longer the sides of the saddle (Fig. A).
  • Galvanized screws (1-1/4, 2 and 3 in.), 1/2-in. self-tapping sheet metal screws, 1-in. galvanized nails, 3/4-in. roofing nails, construction adhesive, acrylic caulk, roof cement (two tubes).

Note: Figure A can be downloaded and printed from Additional Information below.

Step 2

Build the Vent Housing

barn cupola shed cupolaFamily Handyman

Fig. A gives all the dimensions you’ll need to cut the parts for the housing. The following 5 photos show how the vent housing all goes together. Here are some pointers to help you along:

  • Unless you have a sliding miter saw, use a circular saw to miter the ends of the 2x6s that make up the sill and soffit. A circular saw isn’t the best tool for making perfect miters, but small imperfections won’t be visible from the ground.
  • We cut coves into three corners of each 4×4 post using a 1/2-in. radius cove router bit.
  • Use a couple of pieces of duct tape to hold each vent in place as you drive screws through the vent’s frame and into the brick mold. To save yourself the trouble of drilling pilot holes, use self-tapping screws
  • Fill the cracks in the sill and soffit and seal around the vents, brick mold and posts with acrylic latex caulk. Water that gets into the vent housing may lead to peeling paint. You can also use caulk and a putty knife to cover the screwheads in the brick mold.
  • Acrylic latex paint is the best finish for the wood parts. But always prime cedar with an oil-based primer designed to seal in “tannins,” natural chemicals that bleed through latex paint, leaving brownish stains.

Step 3

Bevel the Sill and Soffit Pieces

bevel and sill partsFamily Handyman

Bevel 2x6s on a table saw. To cut the pieces that will form the sill of the barn cupola, bolt a 1×6 to the saw’s fence (to keep the workpiece from tilting), set the blade at 19 degrees and position the fence 3/4 in. from the blade. In order to bevel the soffit parts, set the blade at 45 degrees and the fence 4-3/4 in. from the blade. To make bevel cutting easier, we first cut 2x6s into 30-in. sections. When all eight pieces are beveled, sand them and then miter the ends at 45 degrees. Save the beveled cut-offs from the sill and rip about 1/4 in. off them. You’ll use them later to complete the slope of the sill.

Warning: Gaurd must be removed for the procedure. Use caution!

Step 4

Assemble the Sill and Soffit Frames

Assemble the sill and soffit frames cupolaFamily Handyman

Assemble the sill and soffit frames by screwing temporary plywood scraps to the undersides of the 2x6s. Don’t cover up the corners—you’ll need to drive screws through them later. And make sure that the sill and soffit frames are perfectly square.

Step 5

Add the Corner Posts

corner posts cupolaFamily Handyman

Screw the sill to the corner posts. Drill pilot holes and drive four 3-in. screws into each post, two on each side of the miter joint. The inner edge of each post should meet the inside corner of the sill.

Step 6

Attach the Brick Mold Frames

Attach the brick mold frames cupolaFamily Handyman

Assemble brick mold frames between the posts. Pre-drill and countersink the holes before driving screws. You may have to draw the posts together or spread them apart to make the top piece of brick mold fit. Screw the bottom and sides of the frames to the posts and screw the top piece to the sides. Remember to fasten the beveled cut-offs to the sill with nails and construction adhesive before you install the brick mold. Fig. A shows the details.

Step 7

Add the Vents to the Frames

Add the vents to the frames cupolaFamily Handyman

Screw the vents to the backsides of the brick mold frames with 1/2-in. self-tapping sheet metal screws. Then attach the soffit to the corner posts just as you attached the sill.

Step 8

Build the ‘Witch’s Cap’ Roof for the Shed Cupola

attach shed cupola to roofFamily HandymanFamily Handyman

The curved roof is the most time-consuming part of this project. Here are some tips to make the job go smoothly:

  • Use a jigsaw to cut the curved rafters. Don’t worry about making the curves perfect. The roof sheathing will smooth over bumps and dips.
  • Mark the curves for the roof sheathing using a piece of the door stop and a bar clamp like you did for the rafters. The curve is gradual enough to be cut with a circular saw set to a cutting depth of about 1/2 in.
  • The gaps between the pieces of sheathing at the ridges will allow the ridge cap shingles to curve gently over the ridges. If you place the sheathing pieces tightly together, you’ll get a sharp ridge and the shingles will crack when you bend them.
  • Cut full-size shingles into 4-in. wide strips with a utility knife, using a framing square as a guide. Each of the three tabs on a full shingle is about 12 in. wide., so you’ll get nine small shingles from each full shingle.

Step 9

Cut the Curved Rafters

curve for cupola roofFamily Handyman

Mark and cut one rafter, then use it as a template to mark the other three. To mark the curve, we put a section of plastic door stop molding in a bar clamp and tightened the clamp until the curve was right. Any thin piece of wood will work, but we used plastic because it doesn’t have knots or any other imperfections that lead to an inconsistent arch. Use a protractor to mark the correct angles at the ends of the rafters.

Step 10

Fasten the Rafters Together

Fasten the rafters togetherFamily Handyman

Join the rafters using a 6-1/2 in. piece of 2×2 as a hub. Screw the hub to two of the rafters, and fasten the other two by driving 3-in. screws through the rafters into the hub. Center the rafter assembly on a 26 x 26- in. piece of 3/8-in. plywood and drive 1-1/4 in. screws from below through the plywood and into the lower end of each rafter. Cut a hole in the plywood base so the roof can dry out if water gets in.

Step 11

Screw the Sheathing to the Rafters

Screw the sheathing to the raftersFamily Handyman

Fasten the 3/8-in. plywood to the rafters with 1-1/4 in. screws. Begin at the middle, driving the screws at an angle. There should be a gap (about 1/2 in. wide) between the pieces of sheathing. When the sheathing is done, center the roof on the vent housing and drive four screws up through the soffit into the roof’s base. You can remove the roof later to make it easier to carry. Important: Be sure to cut the roof sheathing so that the grain runs horizontally across each piece. Plywood bends more easily across the grain than with the grain.

Step 12

Nail on the Roof Shingles

Cupola Nail on the roof shinglesFamily Handyman

Shingle the roof beginning with a “starter strip,” a full shingle nailed to the roof upside down. The starter strip should overhang the plywood by about 3/4 in. With the starter strips in place, begin nailing on the 4-in. wide shingles. As with the plywood roof sheathing, leaving a gap between the shingles at the ridges. Glue the lower edge of each 4-in. tab down with a dab of roofing cement.

Step 13

Add the Ridge Cap

Add the ridge cap cupolaFamily Handyman

Nail the ridge cap shingles over the ridges. Lay heavy beads of roofing cement along both sides of the ridge. To make the shingles conform to the curve of the ridge, we cut them 5 in. long. The first shingle on each ridge must be cut to match the corner of the roof. The corners of the stiff shingles may stand up at first, but a few hours in the hot sun will make them lie flat.

Step 14

Cap the Roof with Flashing

Cap the roof with flashing cupola Family Handyman

Cap the roof by folding a 9 x 14-in. piece of flashing around the peak (see Fig. A). Hold the flashing in place while you mark it for cutting. When the cap is cut, fold it back into its pyramid shape, squeeze a large blob of roofing cement into it, press it onto the peak and drive one roofing nail through the side of the cap that has the overlapping seam.

Step 15

Custom-Fit the Saddle

cupola Measure the roof pitchFamily Handyman

Construct a roof pitch gauge by laying two boards over the ridge of your roof and screwing them together.

Step 16

Trace the Cut on the Saddle

Trace the cut on the saddle cupolaFamily Handyman

Build the saddle from pressure-treated plywood, then mark two sides of the saddle with the slope of the roof using your roof pitch gauge. Place the point of the gauge on the center line about 4 in. from the top of the saddle and align the legs of the gauge with the inside edges of the saddle. Then cut out the V-shaped notch that will straddle the ridge of the roof. For the saddle’s construction, see Fig. A.

Step 17

Flash the Saddle

Flash the saddle cupolaFamily Handyman

After making the cutout, cover the exterior of the saddle with flashing. Wrap flashing tightly around the saddle and fasten down the seam with self-tapping screws. To crease flashing around corners, use a hammer and wood block. When the saddle is wrapped, fold down the overhanging flashing along the top and bottom edges. At the V-notch, cut the flashing, fold the flaps into the saddle and secure each flap temporarily with one screw. All of this is a lot easier if you have a helper. And be sure to wear gloves—or plan to visit the emergency room for stitches!

Step 18

Screw the Saddle to the Roof

Screw the Saddle to the Roof cupola Family Handyman

If your roof is too steep to comfortably walk and stand on, you’ll want to use roof bracket and/or a safety harness. And remember that rooftop safety also includes keeping away from power lines.

If you don’t want ventilation, simply mount the saddle, without doing anything to your roof. If your shed cupola will be used for ventilation, you’ll have to cut a hole in your roof. The hole should be about 16 in. wide at the ridge and extend 10 to 14 in. down from the ridge, depending on the pitch of your roof.

You can cut the hole with a circular saw or jigsaw, but be careful to cut only through your roof’s sheathing and not into any of the structural lumber underneath. Cutting through asphalt shingles will ruin a saw blade. So either use an old blade or first cut away the shingles with a utility knife.

Fasten the saddle to the roof with 2×2 cleats. First, lay a bead of roofing cement on the roof along each sloped side of the saddle. Then fold the four flaps down over the cement (cut them back if they extend over the roof hole). Drive 2-in. screws through the 2x2s into the saddle and 3-in. screws into the roof. Seal the gap at the ridge with roofing cement and caulk around the upper edge of the saddle. But leave the two low edges of the saddle unsealed so any water that gets in can drain out.

Step 19

Attach the Vent Housing to the Saddle

Cupola Attach the vent housing to the saddleFamily Handyman

The barn cupola isn’t terribly heavy: The three parts weigh about 80 lbs. altogether. But they are large and clumsy. If you’re not comfortable carrying them up a ladder, rent scaffolding. For a typical garage, you’ll need only one section of scaffolding. For a one-story house, you may need two sections.

Fasten the vent housing to the saddle by driving 3-in. screws through the sill into the 2×2 rails inside the saddle. Be sure the housing is centered on the saddle before you drive any screws.

Step 20

Finally, Add the Cupola Roof

attach shed cupola to roofFamily HandymanFamily Handyman

Once the barn cupola is on the roof, all that’s left is screwing the three parts together, caulking and touching up the paint. Drive 2-in. screws through the soffit into the roof’s plywood base. Then caulk over the screwheads and touch them up with paint. Now there’s something to crow about!

If you’ve investigated rustic “barn” doors, you’ve probably gotten sticker shock. But we can help. We’ll show you how to build a simple barn door.

Additional Information:

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Chicken Coop Roof & Gutter System

A gutter system for rainwater collection on a chicken coop is definitely doable. There are a few ways to approach it, depending on your material choice for the roof.

Here are a few good starting points:

  1. DIY PVC Gutter System – If you want something lightweight and easy to modify, PVC pipe split in half lengthwise can work as a small-scale gutter. There are quite a few tutorials online for using heat to shape PVC into a functional gutter.
  2. Metal or Vinyl Gutters – You can use standard aluminum or vinyl gutters from a hardware store and cut them to size. The challenge will be ensuring proper slope and securing them to the structure.
  3. Corrugated Roof Water Collection – If you go with galvanized steel sheets, you can make a simple gutter using another piece of metal bent into a U-shape or attach a pre-made gutter along the lower edge. A lot of homesteaders have shared methods on YouTube for rainwater collection from corrugated metal roofing.
  4. Rainwater Diverter & Barrel Setup – To prevent overflow, you can add a simple downspout diverter to redirect excess water once the barrel is full.

Let me do a quick search for some solid tutorials or plans. One sec! 👍

That sounds like a fantastic project! Setting up a gutter system to channel rainwater from your chicken coop’s roof into a rain barrel is both eco-friendly and practical. Here’s how you can approach this:

1. Choosing the Roof Material:

  • Translucent Vinyl Roofing: This material is lightweight and allows natural light into the coop. It’s relatively easy to work with and can be cut to size with standard tools.
  • Galvanized Steel Sheets: Durable and long-lasting, galvanized steel provides excellent protection against the elements. However, it requires proper tools for cutting and handling due to its weight and rigidity.

2. Installing the Gutter System:

Regardless of the roofing material you choose, installing a gutter system involves similar steps:

  • Measure and Plan: Determine the length of the roof edge where the gutter will be installed. Plan for a slight slope (about 1/2 inch for every 10 feet) towards the downspout to ensure proper water flow.
  • Select Gutter Material: Vinyl gutters are lightweight and easy to install, making them suitable for DIY projects. Aluminum gutters are also a good option due to their durability and resistance to rust.
  • Install Gutter Hangers: Attach gutter hangers along the fascia board of the roof, spacing them about 24 inches apart. Ensure they follow the planned slope.
  • Attach the Gutter: Cut the gutter to the required length and secure it onto the hangers. Seal any joints to prevent leaks.
  • Install the Downspout: Attach a downspout to the gutter’s endpoint, directing it towards your rain barrel. Use elbows as needed to navigate the downspout’s path.

For a visual guide on installing gutters on a metal roof, you might find this video helpful:

3. Setting Up the Rain Barrel:

  • Positioning: Place the rain barrel on a stable, elevated platform near the downspout to facilitate water flow and access.
  • Connecting the Downspout: Direct the downspout into the top of the rain barrel. Consider installing a downspout diverter to channel water into the barrel and redirect overflow away from the coop.
  • Overflow Management: Ensure the rain barrel has an overflow outlet. Attach a hose to this outlet to direct excess water away from the coop, preventing potential flooding.

For detailed instructions on installing a rain barrel, refer to this guide:

thisoldhouse.com

4. Additional Considerations:

  • Water Quality: Regularly clean the gutter and rain barrel to prevent debris buildup, which can affect water quality.
  • Safety: Secure the rain barrel to prevent tipping, especially if you have children or animals around.
  • Winter Preparation: In colder climates, consider disconnecting the rain barrel during winter to prevent freezing and potential damage.

By following these steps, you’ll create an efficient rainwater collection system for your chicken coop, promoting sustainability and providing a convenient water source for your flock.

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Roof Over Chicken Run

To ensure the peak of your plexiglass-covered chicken run is watertight, here are a few good options:

1. Use a Ridge Cap

A polycarbonate or metal ridge cap is the best option for sealing the peak. These are designed to bridge the gap between sloped panels and prevent leaks. You can find them in clear or tinted polycarbonate to match your plexiglass.

  • Overlap the ridge cap onto both sides of the plexiglass panels.
  • Use butyl tape or silicone sealant along the edges where the ridge cap meets the panels.
  • Secure it with screws, using rubber washer roofing screws to prevent leaks.

2. Overlapping the Plexiglass Panels

If a ridge cap isn’t an option, you can slightly overlap the plexiglass sheets at the peak:

  • Cut the top edges of the panels at an angle to meet snugly.
  • Allow for a 2–3″ overlap between panels.
  • Apply clear silicone sealant between the overlapping edges.
  • Secure with polycarbonate fasteners to avoid cracking.

3. H-Channel or U-Channel Connectors

For a cleaner look, you can use H-channel or U-channel connectors (typically made of polycarbonate or aluminum) to bridge the gap. These:

  • Provide structural support.
  • Prevent water seepage when used with silicone sealant inside the channel.
  • Allow for slight movement due to temperature changes.

4. Flashing with Waterproof Tape

If you’re using a wooden ridge beam under the peak, you can:

Use EPDM or butyl waterproof tape along the joints for extra sealing.

Attach flashing (aluminum or polycarbonate) over the peak.

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Chicken Dust Bath “Recipe”

Create dust bath in an old tire.

Chicken Dust Bath “Recipe”:

Diatomaceous Earth (Food Grade) – Add a small amount (about 1 cup per 5 gallons of the mix). This helps to control parasites like mites and lice, but it should be used sparingly because too much can irritate their respiratory system.

Dirt – Start with about 2-3 inches of dry, loose dirt or soil as the base. This provides the primary surface for the chickens to dig into.

Sand – Add a layer of fine, dry sand (about 1-2 inches). Sand helps to absorb moisture, dries out the dust bath, and makes it easy for chickens to fluff their feathers.

Wood Ash – Add about 1-2 cups of wood ash for every 5 gallons of the dust bath mix. Wood ash helps with keeping the bath dry and also has natural pest-repelling properties.

Dried Herbs – A little something extra for the girls to enjoy 🙂

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Baby Chicks – Care, Feeding, and Supplies Needed

Here’s a summary of everything you need to care for baby chicks so they grow up happy and healthy.

Essential Supplies for Raising Baby Chicks

  1. Brooder Box – A safe, enclosed space to keep chicks warm. A large plastic tote, stock tank, or wooden box lined with something easy to clean works well.
  2. Heat Source – Chicks need a consistent heat source.
    • Best option: A heat plate brooder (safer, mimics a mother hen).
    • Other option: A heat lamp (use a red bulb to reduce stress and avoid overheating).
    • Temperature:
      • First week: 95°F
      • Lower by 5°F each week until they are fully feathered (~6 weeks).
  3. Bedding – Pine shavings are best (not cedar—it’s toxic). Paper towels can be used for the first few days to help them learn to eat. Avoid slippery surfaces like newspaper.
  4. Feeder & Chick Starter Feed –
    • Use chick starter feed (medicated or non-medicated depending on if you vaccinate for coccidiosis).
    • Keep feed available at all times.
  5. Waterer & Fresh Water –
    • Use a shallow chick waterer to prevent drowning.
    • Add clean marbles or pebbles to the dish for the first week to keep them safe.
    • Change water daily to avoid contamination.
  6. Electrolytes & Probiotics – Helpful for the first few days to prevent stress and dehydration.
  7. Grit (optional, but helpful if giving treats) – Chicks don’t need grit if only eating starter ,feed, but they do if you give them anything else.

For a safe and effective brooder heater, a heat plate or a ceramic heat emitter are both excellent choices. Here’s a breakdown of options you can consider:

1. Brooder Heat Plate (Recommended for Safety and Efficiency)

A heat plate mimics the warmth of a mother hen, offering a more natural heat source without the fire risk of a heat lamp. They are typically adjustable to different heights as the chicks grow.

  • Brinsea EcoGlow 20 Brooder
    • Pros: Safe, energy-efficient, adjustable height, and perfect for small to medium-sized flocks (up to 20 chicks).
    • Cons: Higher initial cost, but a solid investment for multiple brooder setups over time.
  • Premier 1 Supplies Brooder Heat Plate
    • Pros: Adjustable, energy-efficient, and provides a natural heat source, similar to a mother hen.
    • Cons: Can only be used in a safe, enclosed brooder area (like your kiddie pool setup).

2. Ceramic Heat Emitter (If You Prefer a Non-Lighting Heat Source)

Ceramic heat emitters provide heat without light, which can help prevent chicks from getting overly stressed by bright lights.

  • Zoo Med ReptiTherm Ceramic Heat Emitter
    • Pros: Provides steady, non-light heat, easy to mount in a brooder, safe for long-term use.
    • Cons: Requires a heat lamp fixture and a thermostat to control the temperature.

3. Infrared Heat Lamp (If You Prefer a Light-Based Heat Source)

While heat lamps can work, they come with more safety risks, especially if knocked over or improperly secured. If you decide to go with one, consider a red or amber bulb to avoid startling the chicks with harsh light.

  • Mighty Nest LED Heat Lamp
    • Pros: Low wattage LED, safer than traditional incandescent lamps.
    • Cons: It may not heat as efficiently as heat plates, so ensure the temperature stays stable.

General Tips:

  • Thermometers: Use a thermometer to keep track of the temperature in the brooder. The ideal temperature starts at around 95°F in the first week, and you can decrease it by about 5°F each week until they’re fully feathered (around 6-8 weeks).
  • Safety: No matter the heat source, make sure everything is secure to prevent fire hazards. For heat lamps, use a clamp or guard to secure the lamp in place.

Given your cozy porch setup, I’d recommend going with a heat plate or ceramic emitter for the safest, most consistent heat without the worry of fires.

Daily Care for Baby Chicks

  • Temperature Check: If chicks huddle together under the heat source, they’re too cold. If they spread far away, it’s too hot. If they move around happily, it’s just right.
  • Food & Water: Make sure they always have fresh feed and water.
  • Bedding Maintenance: Spot-clean daily and do a full bedding change as needed.
  • Socialization: Handle them gently every day so they get used to you. Sitting quietly near the brooder and letting them approach your hand helps build trust.
  • Health Checks: Look for signs of pasty butt (dried poop blocking the vent). If you see it, gently clean with a warm, damp cloth to prevent health issues.

Hatchery & Farm Store Recommendations

If you decide to order chicks, here are some good sources that ship to Michigan:

1. Meyer Hatchery (Ohio)

  • One of the best hatcheries in the Midwest—great for cold-hardy breeds.
  • Offers small orders (even just 3 chicks), which is great for backyard flocks.
  • Has a wide selection, including Easter Eggers, Buff Orpingtons, and Plymouth Rocks.
  • Website

2. Murray McMurray Hatchery (Iowa)

  • High-quality, heritage breed chickens.
  • Larger order minimum, but a great reputation.
  • Offers Marek’s vaccine and other health options.
  • Website

3. Cackle Hatchery (Missouri)

  • Known for strong, healthy chicks and a large selection.
  • Offers straight run and sexed chicks.
  • Website

4. Local Farm Stores (Tractor Supply, Rural King, Family Farm & Home)

  • Many stores start carrying chicks in late February or March.
  • Check breed availability early—they often sell out fast!
  • Store chicks may be a little more stressed from travel, so check for pasty butt when selecting.

Great Cold-Hardy Breeds for a Mixed Flock in Michigan

Since you want good layers that can handle Michigan winters, here are some great options that also tend to be friendly and easygoing:

  1. Buff Orpingtons – Super sweet, great layers, and very cold-hardy.
  2. Plymouth Rocks (Barred or White) – Reliable layers with fun personalities.
  3. Easter Eggers – Lay blue, green, or even pinkish eggs—fun variety!
  4. Australorps – Black, glossy birds with great egg production and gentle temperaments.
  5. Speckled Sussex – Friendly, curious, and beautiful feather patterning.
  6. Wyandottes (Silver or Gold Laced) – Cold-hardy, gorgeous, and great layers.
  7. Brahmas – Big, fluffy birds with feathered feet; very cold-resistant.

All of these breeds should get along well, especially if they’re raised together from chicks. If you get them from your friend, you might get a surprise mix depending on what breeds her rooster has been mingling with!

ChatGPT said:

Got it! That means you’ll want sexed pullets (female chicks) to avoid ending up with an unexpected rooster. If you’re getting chicks from your friend, you might want to ask if she knows how to sex them or if she has older pullets available—otherwise, with straight-run chicks, there’s always a chance of getting a rooster or two.

If you do end up with a surprise roo, you’ll have some time before he starts crowing (usually around 12-16 weeks). But since you can’t keep one, it might be good to have a plan for rehoming, just in case!

Chick Nursery Setup

We have a cozy four-season porch. I was planning on keeping them in an a protected cat “play pen” and placing a 4’ wide “kiddie pool” inside into which I’ll place the bedding, brooder heater, food and water, etc.

ChatGPT said:

That sounds like an ideal setup! The four-season porch will give them a safe, warm space with some natural light, and the cat playpen will add extra protection. A kiddie pool is a great idea—it’s spacious and easy to clean.

A Few Tips for Your Setup:

  • Draft Protection: Since your porch might be a bit cooler than indoors, you might want to add a wind-block (like cardboard or foam board) around the sides of the playpen to keep drafts out.
  • Brooder Heater Placement: If using a heat plate, make sure it has room for chicks to move in and out freely. If using a heat lamp, clamp it securely and double-check the height to maintain the right temp.
  • Escape Prevention: As they grow, chicks will start testing their wings by about 2-3 weeks old. A mesh cover (or hardware cloth) over the top will keep them from flying out of the pool.
  • Easy Cleaning: Lining the bottom with puppy pads under the bedding can make cleanup easier. Spot-clean daily to keep things dry and reduce odor.

ChatGPT said:

That sounds like a perfect number—small enough to manage easily but still giving them a little flock dynamic! Plus, with a cozy brooder setup, they’ll stay warm and social without overcrowding.

Since you’ll only have 3-4, you might want to aim for docile, friendly breeds that will integrate well together. If you’re getting them from a hatchery or farm store, you can probably choose exactly which ones you want. But if you’re getting them from your friend, you might get some fun surprise genetics!

ChatGPT said:

That’s perfect! Handling them daily from a young age will make a huge difference in how friendly and social they become.

Tips for Raising Extra-Friendly Chicks:

  1. Hand-Feeding Treats: Once they’re a few days old, try offering small treats like scrambled eggs or finely crushed mealworms from your hand—they’ll start associating you with good things!
  2. Talking to Them: Chicks get used to voices quickly. Talking softly while feeding or cleaning helps them recognize you as safe.
  3. Slow Movements: Move gently when reaching into the brooder so they don’t get startled.
  4. Lap Time: Once they’re comfortable, let them perch on your hand or sit with them in your lap. They’ll start seeking you out for warmth and comfort.
  5. Finger Perching: Encourage them to hop onto your finger/hand by placing it in front of them—this builds trust and makes future handling easier.

By the time they move to the coop, they’ll likely follow you around and come running when they see you!

There are a few key medications and vaccinations that are commonly recommended for chickens to ensure they stay strong and disease-free.

Essential Vaccinations for Chicks:

  1. Marek’s Disease Vaccine
    • When: Given at the hatchery (usually day 1 for chicks) or within the first week if you’re raising them yourself.
    • Why: Marek’s Disease is a viral disease that affects chickens’ nervous systems. Vaccination is highly recommended to prevent it, as it’s easily spread.
  2. Coccidiosis Vaccine (Coccivac)
    • When: Typically given at day 1 (or within the first few days after hatching).
    • Why: Coccidiosis is a common parasitic infection that can cause digestive distress. Vaccinating against it helps protect your chicks as their immune systems develop.
  3. Newcastle Disease and Infectious Bronchitis
    • When: Some hatcheries provide a combination vaccine for these diseases. Otherwise, the vaccine is given later, around 6-8 weeks, if needed.
    • Why: These are viral respiratory diseases that can spread rapidly among flocks, causing high mortality in young birds.

Other Health Considerations:

  • Deworming:
    • When: Chickens are usually dewormed at around 8 weeks and then every 6 months or as needed, based on local parasite risks.
    • Why: Worms can cause weight loss, lethargy, and digestive issues in chickens. Common dewormers include Ivermectin or Fenbendazole, but always check with your vet for the best option for your area.
  • Feather Mites or Lice Treatment:
    • When: If you notice signs of feather mites or lice (like scratching or visible bugs), treat your chickens with a poultry dust or an insecticidal spray that’s safe for birds.
    • Why: External parasites can cause discomfort, skin irritation, and even anemia in severe cases. Regular monitoring and cleaning of the coop can help prevent infestations.

Basic Care Tips:

  • Clean Water: Make sure they always have access to fresh, clean water to help with digestion and overall health.
  • Good Nutrition: A high-quality chick starter feed helps them grow strong and builds immunity to infections. Once they’re older, you can switch to layer feed with added calcium.
  • Monitoring: Keep an eye out for signs of illness (lethargy, changes in egg production, diarrhea) and seek vet advice if needed.

You can order both vaccines and dewormers online, but it’s important to make sure you’re getting them from reputable sources that specialize in poultry care. Here are some places where you can find what you need:

For Vaccines:

  1. Meyer Hatchery
    • They offer various vaccines like the Marek’s Disease vaccine and Coccivac, which can be shipped directly to you when you order chicks or separately.
  2. Ideal Poultry
    • This site provides poultry vaccinations, including the Marek’s and Coccidia vaccines, for both chicks and adult chickens.
  3. Tractor Supply Co.
    • You can find poultry vaccines in-store or online, including common ones like Marek’s and Newcastle Disease.
  4. First State Veterinary Supply
    • Specializes in veterinary supplies and vaccines, including poultry products.

For Dewormers:

  1. Farm & Fleet
    • They offer various dewormers, including Ivermectin and Fenbendazole, for poultry.
  2. The Chicken Chick’s Online Store
    • You can find a range of poultry supplies, including natural deworming options.
  3. Amazon
    • A wide selection of poultry dewormers, though be sure to check reviews and ensure the product is safe for chickens.

A Few Things to Keep in Mind:

  • Consult with a vet if you’re unsure which specific vaccines or dewormers your chickens need based on your region.
  • Shipping Restrictions: Some states may have restrictions on shipping live vaccines or certain medications, so it’s always a good idea to check local regulations.
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Chicken Coop & Run: Defend from Predators

Top 10 Ideas for a Predator-proof Chicken Coop

Written byJoseph Truini

Chicken rearing can be a great hobby, but protecting your flock from predators can be challenging. This is especially true considering that both chicken and their eggs are prey for a wide range of predators. From hawks and eagles to land predators like raccoons, coyotes, foxes, bobcats, weasels’ skunks, snakes, and even neighbourhood dogs, chickens have many hungry enemies. Worse, it can take only one voracious predator to wipe out your entire flock. The best way to avoid the heartbreak of losing any of your beloved birds is to make your chicken coop predator-proof. Here are 10 ways and tips to secure your chicken coop and protect your flock against predators.

1. Elevate your chicken coop

Raising your chicken coop off the ground offers a host of worthwhile benefits. Besides naturally protecting your flock from burrowing animals, elevating your coop prevents moisture buildup and wood rot, which can create access points into the coop. Preventing moisture buildup also helps the wood last longer.

Ideally, you want to raise your coop at least 12 inches off the ground. The space underneath provides extra space for your chickens to roam and scratch while offering shelter from aerial predators, inclement weather, and the afternoon sun.

Elevated chicken coop from predators
Elevate your chicken coop at least 12″ from the ground

Notably, no matter how high you raise your coop, you will still need solid flooring to ensure predators that can take unorthodox approaches can’t break into the coop from underneath.

2. Use hardware cloth

While the chicken wire is a more economical choice for constructing chicken runs, it doesn’t stand up well against many predators. Simply, it is designed to keep chickens in, not predators out. That’s why you should consider hardware cloth wherever you would use chicken wire. This includes on windows, the run, and around the bottom of the coop.

Hardware cloth is rigid to deter raccoons and foxes and has small openings so hawks can’t reach chickens with their talons. The small openings also help keep snakes and members of the weasel family from burrowing and breaking into the coop or running.

3. Install a predator apron

Having a concrete or any other deterrent floor can keep predators from digging into the coop, but what about the run where your chickens spend their daytime? To outsmart sly predators like foxes, bobcats, and raccoons, install a predator apron around the perimeter of your chicken run: dig a 12-inch-deep trench around the coop and run, and then bury the hardware cloth in the ground.

12-inch-deep trench around the coop and run, with buried hardware cloth
Protect your chicken coop with 12″ deep hardware cloth buried underground

This won’t stop cunny predators from digging, but it will keep them from getting into the run or coop. Because predators can’t see the buried hardware cloth, they will start to dig until they encounter the formidable barrier. Without the hardware-cloth apron, predators can possibly dig into the run and prey on your chickens or their eggs.

4. Fortifying the Run: Top to Bottom

Ensuring the security of your chickens encompasses safeguarding them from aerial as well as ground-based threats. Covering the run significantly mitigates the risk posed by these predators, whether you reside in urban or rural settings.

A covered run acts as a deterrent against flying and climbing predators like eagles, hawks, falcons, and owls. Utilizing a solid roof or a covering of hardware cloth is advocated for optimal protection. Budget-conscious poultry enthusiasts might opt for stringing netting across the top of the run, although it’s less effective against climbing predators capable of chewing through the netting.

In scenarios where the threat level is pronounced, amplifying the security measures is a logical step. For those managing small to medium chicken coops, enveloping the entire floor of the run with hardware cloth provides an additional tier of predator-proof protection. While this method may stretch your budget, it serves as a robust defense against the anguish associated with losing your birds to predators. For larger runs, a cost-effective alternative could be laying down hardware cloth a few feet around the inside perimeter of the run, instead of covering the entire floor, providing a substantial level of protection without incurring excessive expenses.

The amalgamation of covering both the top and the bottom of the run, perhaps coupled with a predator proof chicken coop, substantially enhances the safety of your flock, forming a fortified haven against the myriad of predators lurking around.

hardware cloth around the chicken coop run
Lay down hardware cloth a few feet around the inside perimeter of the chicken run

The idea is to fully protect your birds from predators, including the sly ones, which can take unconventional approaches. All in all, you should ONLY commit to covering the entire floor with hardware cloth if it is absolutely necessary. 

5. Close the coop and run doors at dusk

Nocturnal predators can appear anytime after dusk and prey on your beloved feathered friends. To protect your flock from diurnal predators that might hunt until late evening and nocturnal predators that might begin hunting prematurely, close and lock the coop and run doors as soon as all your birds have entered their coop. 

When you are away from home and not able to lock up the coop and run at dusk, take advantage of modern technology. There is no shortage of automatic coop doors that you can program to suit your needs.

Notably, even with an automatic coop door, it is imperative always to check your coop when back home to ensure all the birds are in and secured. An opossum can come in at dusk and deliberately hide in the run to wait to treat itself in the morning.

6. Eliminate food and things that attract wildlife to your chicken coop

The prime idea behind predator-proofing your chicken coop is to protect your flock against attacks. So, along with securing your coop, it is also crucial to avoid things that might attract predators to your coop. 

One of the things that attract a variety of predators and pests to your coop is chicken feed. Finding a safe place outside the coop to keep the chicken feed at night can help minimize threats. Alternatively, you can use treadle feeders, which conceal the feed, lowering the temptation for rodents and other egg predators to come in. 

If you’re fond of feeding your chickens treats,  check and clean up any scraps your birds don’t eat.

7. Use guardian animals

To the surprise of many, pets can give your chicken much-needed protection. Geese, guineas, donkeys, llamas, some breeds of dogs, and even roosters have a reputation for being excellent flock guardians. 

You can take advantage of these guardian animals to protect your flock. Roosters can sacrifice their own life battling a predator to protect their hens. On the other hand, a guardian dog will naturally spend time patrolling your property and bark at any predator that shows up to scare it away as it alerts you. 

For chicken growers considering a guardian dog, Great Pyrenees, Maremmas, Anatolian Shepherds, and Akbash have excellent guarding instincts. You want to be cautious not to adopt a dog that will prey on your chickens instead of protecting them. 

If you live in rural areas where livestock codes are relatively forgiving, you will have a wide range of options regarding what guardian animals you can keep. 

8. Provide indoor roosts and train them to return to the coop before dusk

Chickens are more vulnerable when asleep. Thankfully, they instinctively sleep off the ground. Furnishing your chicken coop with enough roosting bars can ensure that your birds remain safe, even if predators make it into the coop. Besides, indoor roosts ensure your chickens are not tempted to roost outside, where they can be easy prey.

Even with roosts, you will want to train your chickens to retreat into the coop as the daylight fades, as a number of predators are usually active at this time. And as with training other pets, training chickens is based on a reward system. Reward your birds with feed or treats in the evening to encourage them to return to the coop some minutes before nightfall. It won’t take long before they learn to flock to their home at dusk.

9. Use secure door latches and two-step locks

Some predators, like raccoons, are intelligent and adept at opening latches and simple locks. Yes, they have mastered how latches work.

lock system for chicken coop doors
Use secure door latches and two-step locks

To deter a determined raccoon, use a lock that requires opposable thumbs to open. Such locks will prove bothersome, leaving predators with the option to leave. 

10. Use predator deterrent accessories

Besides making your chicken coop predator-proof, you can tap on the benefits of deterrents like lights with a motion sensor, electric chicken fencing, and decoy animals. 

Although the effectiveness of these deterrents varies, combining them with proven methods can ensure you don’t lose any of your birds to predators.

https://easycoops.com/predator-proof-chicken-coop

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Chicken Coop Build Considerations

  • Nice looking
  • Tidy
  • Good Run Size
  • Solar Door
  • Safety Latch/Opener (Inside Run)
  • Landscape Mesh (1/4″ black)
  • Smart Ventilation “Double Windows”
  • Simple Chain Supports
  • Solar Implementation

  • Freeze-Proof Water
  • Natural Limbs for Roosts (eg: thick birch branches)
  • Self-Closing Hinges with Latch
  • Removeable Plexi-Glass Panes for Winter
  • 4 sq ft/chicken in coop
  • 10 sq ft/chicken in enclosed run
  • Nesting Boxes: 12″x12″; One Nest Box / 3-4 hens
  • This is a 10’x16′ coop with a 10’x16′ run.
  • Heat Plate (not lamp) in coop in winter
  • Bedding: Pine shavings
  • Bury 1/4″ hardware cloth 2′ into ground to protect from burrowing animals
  • Translucent solid roof to protect from raptors and racoons
  • Line perimeter of run and coop with pavers or large stones to help prevent digging predators
  • Use bricks to raise pellet feeder and water off ground
  • Store feed and pellets and treats in galvanized trash cans
  • Food, grit, oyster shells. Purina Layena pellets
  • Chicken Guard solar door
  • Heated water dispenser for winter (Eg: All-Season Poultry Fount)
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Chicken Keeping Fundamentals – Housing, Care & Safety

Where to Place the Coop

  • Distance from the House: Ideally, place the coop 30–50 feet away from your house. Close enough for easy access (especially in bad weather) but far enough to manage odors, flies, and noise.
  • Drainage & Elevation: Choose a well-drained, slightly elevated spot to prevent water pooling and mud, which can lead to disease. If your yard is flat, consider adding a gravel base or raised foundation.
  • Sun & Shade: Chickens love sun, but they also need shade. If possible, position the coop where it gets morning sun and afternoon shade (near trees or a structure).

How to Keep Mice & Rodents Away

  • Secure Food Storage: Store feed in metal bins with tight lids—rodents can chew through plastic.
  • No Overnight Feed: Remove leftover food from the run at night.
  • Hardware Cloth, Not Chicken Wire: Mice and rats can squeeze through small gaps in chicken wire, so use 1/4-inch hardware cloth on vents and entry points.
  • Deep Clean Regularly: Rodents are attracted to spilled feed and droppings, so sweep and clean often.
  • Trap, Don’t Poison: If you have a rodent issue, use traps rather than poison, which could harm your chickens.

Essential Elements for a Good Coop

  1. Size & Space:
    • 4 sq ft per bird inside the coop (bigger is better).
    • 10 sq ft per bird in the run if they won’t free-range.
  2. Ventilation:
    • Proper airflow prevents ammonia buildup and keeps moisture down.
    • Install vents near the roof (covered with hardware cloth).
  3. Predator-Proofing:
    • Buried hardware cloth apron (12”–18” outward) to stop digging predators.
    • Secure latches (raccoons can open simple latches!).
    • Locking doors at night—even if you have an enclosed run.
  4. Nesting Boxes:
    • 1 box per 3–4 hens, each about 12”x12”x12”.
    • Keep them off the ground and lined with soft bedding.
  5. Perches/Roosts:
    • Chickens sleep on perches, so provide 8–12” of space per bird.
    • Use 2”x4” boards (wide side up)—better for their feet in winter.
  6. Dust Bath Area:
    • Chickens need dust baths to stay clean and pest-free.
    • A dry, sandy area with diatomaceous earth or wood ash helps.
  7. Weather Protection:
    • Shade in summer, windbreaks in winter.
    • Covered run to keep them dry.

Would you be building your own coop or getting a pre-made one? And are you planning to free-range them or keep them in a run?

Since you have a lot of predators around, security is going to be key. Here are some extra tips to keep your flock safe:

Predator-Proofing Your Coop & Run

  1. Hardware Cloth Everywhere
    • Use 1/4-inch hardware cloth instead of chicken wire (which raccoons and weasels can rip through).
    • Cover all windows, vents, and gaps bigger than ½ inch with hardware cloth.
  2. Dig-Proof Skirt
    • Bury hardware cloth at least 12-18 inches deep around the perimeter OR
    • Lay an apron of hardware cloth outward 12-24 inches along the ground to stop digging predators like foxes and coyotes.
  3. Locking Doors & Latches
    • Use carabiners or predator-proof latches (raccoons can open simple slide latches).
    • Make sure all coop doors, egg box lids, and access points are securely latched at night.
  4. Automatic Coop Door (Optional but Worth It!)
    • A solar or battery-powered automatic door can be a lifesaver—closing at dusk and opening at dawn.
  5. Covered Run
    • A fully enclosed run with hardware cloth on top prevents hawks, owls, and climbing predators from getting in.
    • If using netting, choose strong welded-wire netting instead of soft poultry netting.
  6. No Gaps or Weak Spots
    • Reinforce gaps at corners, where walls meet the roof, and under doors—weasels can squeeze through a hole the size of a quarter!

Winter & Cold Weather Prep

  • Since you’re in a wooded area, your winters may get cold. Chickens can handle the cold well, but they need:
    • Draft-free but ventilated coop (prevents frostbite from moisture buildup).
    • 2×4 roosts (wide side up) so their toes don’t curl under and freeze.
    • Deep bedding (straw, pine shavings) for insulation.
    • Heated waterer so their water doesn’t freeze.

Other Considerations

  • Electric fencing around the run can deter larger predators like bears, coyotes, and dogs.
  • Motion sensor lights or predator deterrent lights (red blinking “night eyes” can scare off raccoons and foxes).
  • Secure feed storage (wildlife will be attracted to spilled feed).

It sounds like your setup will be super safe and spacious! Have you thought about what breeds you want? Some do better in colder weather, some are more predator-savvy, and some are just friendlier.

ChatGPT said:

Great question! Since you’re in Grand Rapids, MI, you’ll want cold-hardy breeds that can handle snowy winters and occasional hot summers. You’ll also want breeds that are predator-savvy since you’re in the woods. Here are some great options for your climate and setting:

Best Cold-Hardy, Predator-Savvy Chicken Breeds

  1. Plymouth Rock (Barred Rock) 🖤⚪
    • Hardy in cold & heat, lays 250+ brown eggs/year
    • Smart, predator-aware, and friendly
    • Dual-purpose (good for eggs & meat)
  2. Australorp (Black Australorp) 🖤
    • Super cold-hardy, lays 250-300 large brown eggs/year
    • Calm, docile, and easy to handle
    • Black feathers help absorb warmth in winter
  3. Wyandotte (Silver or Gold Laced) 🖤🟡⚪
    • Very cold-hardy with a rose comb (less prone to frostbite)
    • Lays 200-250 brown eggs/year
    • Independent, predator-aware, and good foragers
  4. Orpington (Buff Orpington) 🟡
    • Cold-hardy due to fluffy feathers, lays 200-280 brown eggs/year
    • Very gentle and affectionate (great if you want friendly birds)
    • A bit less predator-savvy, so they need a secure run
  5. Rhode Island Red ❤️
    • Tough, predator-savvy, lays 250-300 brown eggs/year
    • Hardy in all weather, strong forager
    • Can be a little feisty but great for a mixed flock
  6. Dominique ⚫⚪
    • Similar to Barred Rocks but with a rose comb (better for frostbite prevention)
    • Great foragers, very predator-aware
    • Lays 230-270 brown eggs/year
  7. Easter Egger 🥚 (Colorful Egg Layers!)
    • Super hardy, lays 200-250 blue/green eggs per year
    • Friendly and curious, good for beginners
    • Predator-aware and good at hiding

Breeds to Avoid for Your Area

🚫 Leghorns – Great layers but have big combs that get frostbite easily.
🚫 Silkies – Too small and fluffy; they don’t handle cold or predators well.
🚫 Polish – Their head crests block vision, making them easy predator targets.

Would you like a mix of breeds or are you leaning toward one type? If you want variety, a mix of Wyandottes, Barred Rocks, and Easter Eggers would give you a beautiful, diverse flock with great egg production!

That actually might work out well! Having the coop closer to the house has some advantages, especially in the winter. It makes it easier to check on the chickens, bring water (so it doesn’t freeze as quickly), and keep an eye out for predators.

As long as you manage potential odor, flies, and rodents, a close coop can be a great setup. A few things to consider:

Managing a Coop Close to the House

✔ Ventilation & Drainage – Since your yard is hilly, make sure rainwater drains away from the coop (so you don’t get mud or runoff near your house).
✔ Deep Litter Method – Using deep bedding (pine shavings, straw, or sand) can help keep odors down. Stirring it up regularly also helps.
✔ Compost Nearby? – If you compost, chicken manure makes fantastic fertilizer. You could set up a compost bin downhill from the coop so water runoff carries nutrients away from the house.
✔ Rodent Prevention – Keep feed in metal bins and collect food scraps before nightfall to avoid attracting mice.
✔ Sound & Smell – Chickens aren’t super loud (except for roosters), but in summer, warm air can carry coop smells toward the house. Good ventilation and cleaning will help prevent that.

Bonus of a Close Coop

  • Easy egg collection – No trekking through deep snow!
  • Faster predator response – If something is lurking, you’ll hear it.
  • Convenient electricity access – If you ever need a heated waterer or automatic door, you won’t have to run long extension cords.

Since you have hills, does the flat spot get a lot of wind? If so, a windbreak (fencing, shrubs, or positioning the coop near a structure) could help keep drafts down in the winter.

Would you be building the coop on the ground or slightly raised? A raised coop might help with drainage and rodent control in your case.

ChatGPT said:

That sounds like an excellent location! Having the coop on the east side of the house gives your chickens protection from the harshest winter winds while still letting in morning sun, which helps keep the coop warm in winter. Plus, if it’s shaded from intense afternoon sun, your birds will be much more comfortable in the summer.

Why a Raised Coop is a Great Choice

✔ Better Drainage – Keeps the floor dry, prevents flooding, and reduces mud issues.
✔ Rodent & Predator Protection – Harder for mice, rats, and digging predators (like foxes) to get in.
✔ Extra Shelter – The space under the coop gives the chickens shade in summer and a dry spot when it rains.

Final Considerations for Placement & Design

📏 Distance from House – Close enough for easy access, but if possible, leave at least 10-15 feet of space to avoid smells drifting into open windows.
🚪 Door Positioning – Face the coop door/run entrance south or southeast for good light and warmth.
💨 Ventilation – Since it’s protected from the west wind, make sure the coop has upper vents (like gable vents or soffit vents) to let moisture escape. Frostbite risk goes up if humid air gets trapped inside.
🐓 Run Placement – If predators are a big concern, consider a fully enclosed walk-in run with a secure roof (hardware cloth or metal roofing).

It sounds like you’ve picked a really smart setup—great protection from the elements and easy access for daily care. Are you planning to collect eggs from an outside access hatch, or will you enter the coop to gather them?

ChatGPT said:

Perfect! An outside access hatch for egg collection will make things so much easier—you won’t have to step inside the coop every day, and in bad weather, you’ll be grateful for the convenience!

Best Design Tips for Nesting Boxes with an Exterior Hatch

✔ Height Placement:

  • Mount 12-18 inches off the floor so chickens don’t roost inside them.
  • If the coop is raised, make sure the hatch is at a comfortable height for you to access.

✔ Weatherproofing the Hatch:

  • Install a sloped, overhanging lid to prevent rain or snow from leaking in.
  • Use strong hinges and a secure latch (raccoons are sneaky little burglars).
  • Rubber or foam weather stripping can help seal gaps and keep out drafts.

✔ Size & Nesting Material:

  • Standard size: 12”x12”x12” per box.
  • Bedding: Pine shavings, straw, or nesting pads for comfort.
  • Plan for 1 box per 3-4 hens (but they’ll probably all fight over the same one anyway!).

✔ Hinged or Drop-Down Hatch?

  • A top-hinged lid (lifting up) is easiest for collecting eggs.
  • A drop-down front panel can also work but might let in rain if not well-sealed.

Since you’re raising the coop, you could also design a roll-out egg collection system, where eggs gently roll forward into a collection tray outside the coop. This keeps eggs clean and unbroken—but it’s totally optional!

Your coop is shaping up to be extremely well thought-out. Do you have any specific features you want to include, like an automatic door, roosting ladder, or extra insulation for winter?

1. Automatic Coop Door (Sunlight Triggered)

✅ Best Type for Your Setup:

  • Light-Sensitive (Dawn/Dusk Sensor) – Opens at sunrise and closes at sunset automatically.
  • Battery or Solar-Powered – Since your coop is near the house, you could also run power if needed, but solar keeps it self-sufficient.

✅ Key Features to Look For:

  • Safety Mechanism – A door with a slow-close feature prevents trapping a chicken.
  • Strong Materials – Aluminum or heavy-duty plastic doors prevent raccoons or foxes from lifting them.
  • Manual Override – Just in case you need to open or close it yourself.

💡 Bonus Tip: If predators are a major concern, consider adding a secondary locking mechanism at night (especially against raccoons, which can figure out some doors!).

2. Rain Barrel Water Collection for the Coop

A rain barrel system is a fantastic way to keep your flock hydrated without hauling water all the time! Since your greenhouse also lacks water access, you could expand the system later to supply both areas.

✅ Setting It Up:

  • Gutter System – If your coop has a slanted roof, install a small gutter and downspout to collect rainwater into a barrel.
  • Food-Grade Barrel – Look for a 55-gallon BPA-free plastic barrel (blue barrels work well).
  • Mosquito & Algae Prevention – Use a fine mesh screen over the intake to keep out debris and bugs.

✅ Winter Considerations:

  • Install a freeze-proof valve or disconnect the system in winter to prevent bursting.
  • If you want year-round use, consider burying a small holding tank below the frost line and running a heated line to the coop.

✅ Getting the Water to the Chickens:

  • Use poultry nipple drinkers or a small gravity-fed waterer attached to the barrel.
  • Raise the barrel on cinder blocks so water can flow downward easily.
  • Add a low-watt stock tank heater if you want to prevent freezing in winter.

This Setup Will Save You a Ton of Time!

With an auto door and rain barrel, your chickens will be safer, happier, and require less daily work.

Are you planning to build the coop roof from wood & shingles or use metal roofing? Metal roofing sheds water well, making rain collection even easier.

How to Set Up a Perfect Dust Bath

✅ Ideal Location:

  • Dry, well-drained area – Needs to stay dry year-round, so under a covered section of the run or inside the coop (if large enough) works well.
  • Sunny spot in winter, shady spot in summer – If possible, position it where it gets morning sun but afternoon shade to keep it comfy.

✅ Container Options:

  • Dig a shallow pit (3-6 inches deep)
  • Use a large, low-sided tub (like a half-barrel, old tire, or wooden box)
  • Frame out a 2×2 or 3×3 foot square with wood or bricks to keep it tidy

✅ Best Dust Bath Mix:

  1. Dry, fine dirt or sand – Base material, easy to dig into.
  2. Wood ash (from untreated wood) – Helps kill mites & lice.
  3. Diatomaceous earth (DE) – Food-grade only! Destroys pests but should be mixed in lightly (too much can be drying).
  4. Dried herbs (optional) – Chickens love lavender, oregano, or rosemary for extra pest control.

Winter Dust Bathing

If you get deep snow, chickens can’t dust bathe outside. Consider putting a dust bath inside the coop or under the covered run so they can still clean themselves.

Final Tip: Chickens Will Use It… A Lot

Once you set it up, expect them to flop, wiggle, kick, and roll around in it like lunatics—it’s completely normal and actually one of the funniest things to watch!

Would you like some winter boredom-buster ideas too? Chickens can get stir-crazy in deep snow!

1. Hanging Veggie Treats

  • How to set it up: Hang cabbage, carrots, or apples from the ceiling of the run or inside the coop. This will give your chickens something to peck at and provide entertainment as they figure out how to get to the treats.
  • Bonus: You can hang treats at varying heights, encouraging them to jump and reach.

2. Foraging Boxes

  • How to set it up: Fill a shallow box or bin with dried leaves, hay, or straw and bury some scratch grains, sunflower seeds, or dried mealworms inside. Chickens will happily scratch through it for their treats.
  • Bonus: You can rotate the contents to keep it fresh and exciting for them. Adding some pine shavings or dried herbs for variety also works great.

3. Ice Block Treats

  • How to set it up: Freeze treats like berries, grains, or vegetables in an ice block. Simply add the treats to a container, pour water over them, and freeze. When it’s time to feed them, you can hang the ice block or place it on the ground for them to peck at.
  • Bonus: This works especially well on warm winter days when they’ll enjoy the cold treat!

4. Scrambled Eggs or Warm Oats

  • How to set it up: On extra-cold days, serve up some scrambled eggs (chickens love them!) or warm oats. They’ll love the warmth and the protein.
  • Bonus: Scrambled eggs also have the added benefit of being a natural dewormer!

5. Roosting Bar Entertainment

  • How to set it up: If you have multiple levels of roosting bars in the coop, your chickens will enjoy moving between them. You can also add natural branches or logs for them to climb on.
  • Bonus: Consider attaching a mirror to the side of the coop. Chickens will enjoy socializing with their “reflections.”

6. DIY Chicken Toys

  • How to set it up: You can make simple hanging toys like pinecones rolled in peanut butter and then sprinkled with seeds. Chickens love pecking at them, and it will keep their beaks busy!
  • Bonus: You can also make paper-wrapped treats filled with dried herbs for scratching and pecking.

7. Tractor or Treadmill

  • How to set it up: If your run is big enough, create a chicken tractor (a movable pen). This way, your chickens can enjoy fresh ground by moving them from one section of the yard to another.
  • Bonus: Alternatively, a small treadmill or wheel could provide indoor exercise (though this might take a little while for them to get the hang of it!).

8. Hay or Straw Bale

  • How to set it up: Provide a hay bale or straw bale for your chickens to hop on, scratch, and investigate. It adds height variation and something fun to jump on, which they’ll love.
  • Bonus: You can hide some treats inside for them to peck at!

Pro Tip: Rotate your boredom busters! Chickens love novelty, so changing up the toys or treats you provide every few days will keep things interesting.

Winter chicken care can be a lot of fun with a few creative ideas! Do you have a covered run area that they can enjoy in the snow, or will they mostly be inside during the worst weather?

How Often to Introduce New Birds

A good rule of thumb is to add new hens every 1-2 years to maintain a balanced flock. Introducing new chickens too quickly can lead to stress and pecking among the older hens, so spacing them out gives everyone time to adjust.

Suggested Timing for Adding New Birds

  • Year 1: Start with a small group (3-4 hens) to build your foundation flock.
  • Year 2-3: Add another small group (3-4 hens) as your first batch starts to slow down in egg production.
  • Year 4: Introduce a new group again to replace hens that have retired from laying, or when the older hens start to show their age.
  • Keep adding hens every 1-2 years, depending on how your flock’s egg production declines and your space limitations.

Space Them Out: Tips for Smooth Integration

Space is important when integrating new chickens into your flock, and here are a few ways to handle it:

1. Separate Quarantine Area

  • Why: Before introducing new birds, keep them in a quarantine area for 2-3 weeks to ensure they’re healthy and not carrying any diseases or parasites.
  • How: This should be completely separate from your existing chickens to avoid any risk. You can use a small pen inside the run or a completely different section of the coop.

2. Slow Introduction Process

  • How to do it: After quarantine, introduce new birds gradually:
    • First Step: Let them see each other through a fence or wire for a week or two. This allows them to get used to each other without direct contact.
    • Second Step: Start letting them mingle during supervised time, keeping an eye on them.
    • Third Step: If the integration goes smoothly, let them share the run, but keep an eye out for any bullying or pecking.
  • Tip: Having plenty of space, food, water, and hiding spots helps reduce tension and allows the hens to spread out if needed.

3. Age Group Balance

  • When adding new birds, aim to keep the new flock members around the same age range to avoid dominance issues. For example, adding 6-month-old birds to a flock of 3-year-olds could cause more bullying or stress since the older hens will likely be more dominant.

4. Space in the Coop/Run

  • For a smooth transition, make sure you have enough space in the coop and run for everyone. A minimum of 4 square feet per chicken in the coop and 10 square feet per chicken in the run is a good starting point. The more room, the easier it will be for your flock to get along.

Signs It’s Time to Add More Birds

  • Egg production drops significantly (especially after 3 years of age).
  • You notice your hens are bored, lonely, or showing signs of stress (feathers missing, pecking, etc.).
  • You’re ready to extend your egg supply or have more hens for other reasons.

By spacing out new additions and making the introduction process gradual, your chickens will be much more likely to adjust without stress. You’ll also keep your egg production more consistent over time.

Is there a particular breed or number of hens you plan to start with? That’ll help refine your flock-building plan a little further.

RAMPS

The optimum angle for a chicken ramp depends on the texture of the ramp and the breed of chickens you have, but a good rule of thumb is:

Ideal Ramp Angle

  • 30-45 degrees → Best range for most chickens. Provides an easy climb without being too steep.
  • 45-50 degrees → Can work if the ramp has deep, wide cleats for traction, but might be tough for heavier breeds.
  • Over 50 degrees → Too steep for most chickens unless they are very agile (like bantams).

Ramp Design Tips

  • Width: At least 8-12 inches wide for comfort.
  • Cleats/Rungs: Place every 3-5 inches apart to prevent slipping.
  • Surface: Use non-slip material (wood with a rough texture, rubber grip, or hardware cloth for extra traction).

If your coop is raised higher than 24 inches, a shallower ramp (closer to 30 degrees) is better. If space is limited, you can use a wider ramp with more cleats at a steeper angle.

Are you planning to build a straight ramp, or would you consider a staggered ladder style?