Care Guide for Otocinclus Catfish — Peaceful, Schooling Algae Eater
If you start getting algae in your new fish tank, most major pet stores will recommend that you buy a pleco or suckermouth catfish. The problem is that most plecos grow rather large, especially the common pleco that can reach up to 2 feet (60 cm). Instead, why not get their much smaller cousin, the otocinclus catfish? They are the perfect fish that have a peaceful personality and amazing cleaning skills. Learn how to keep these adorable algae-eaters and make sure they’re getting enough to eat.
What are Otocinclus Catfish?
This genus of South American catfish consists of about 20 species so far and are often referred to as “otos” for short. Common species in the aquarium hobby include O. vittatus (common otocinclus), O. macrospilus (dwarf otocinclus), and O. cocama (zebra oto). Otocinclus typically range from 1.5–2 inches (4–5 cm), and many kinds are known for having a black horizontal line, dark grayish-brown back, and white belly. Unlike many catfish, they are diurnal (or awake during the daytime). They can usually be found grazing or resting on the ground and flat surfaces (e.g., plant leaves, hardscape, and tank walls) until they suddenly zip away to the other side of the tank.
Are otocinclus good algae eaters? These little critters love nothing more than to nibble algae off plants, glass, tank decor, and other smooth surfaces. They specialize in eating softer algae such as soft green algae and brown diatoms and tend to avoid harder types like black beard or green spot algae. They also love to eat the biofilm that grows on driftwood and other botanicals that are slowly breaking down in the aquarium. Otocinclus perched on an aquarium plant
How to Purchase Otocinclus Catfish
Otocinclus have a reputation for being sensitive fish that are hard to keep alive, but experienced aquarists will tell you that otos are actually very resilient fish and they often avoid catching common illnesses that plague other fish. Their greatest weakness is not getting enough to eat. Currently, most otocinclus are caught from the wild and sent to an exporter’s warehouse, where they are fasted for several days so that they won’t produce too much waste when they are shipped out. Then they arrive at a wholesaler, and hundreds of them are put into a bare aquarium where they may spend a few weeks without getting enough food. By the time the fish store buys the otos from the wholesaler, the fish may not have eaten well for the past 3–6 weeks and will come in pretty skinny.
Even through all that stress, there’s a good chance that otocinclus can still thrive in your aquarium if you follow a few simple tips to greatly increase their survivability:
Make sure you have tons of algae in an aquarium for them to pig out on when you bring them home. The best way to accomplish this is to set up a quarantine tank and simply leave the light on for a week or so until algae is growing all over the place.
Go buy the otos the day after they come into the pet or fish store. This goes against conventional wisdom which says that you want to buy fish that have been at the pet store longer to prove their longevity and lessen the shock of being transported too soon after arrival. Given that the otocinclus are typically grouped together in large numbers and put into tanks that can’t produce enough algae, you want to pick out the strongest fish and take them home to pamper as soon as possible.
Pick the healthiest otos with round, pearly abdomens that are happily swimming around and feeding in the tank. The problem with scrawny otocinclus catfish is that once they have been starved of food, it is often hard to get them to eat again.
Besides algae, try offering them lots of different kinds of foods to see what they’ll eat. See the below section on dietary requirements for more ideas.
You know you have achieved success in finding a good food balance for your otos if they have lived in your tank for more than a month or two. Once your fish have survived that long, it means they are getting enough food to continue happily navigating their new home. 3 healthy otocinclus with rounded, pearl-like bellies
How to Set Up an Aquarium for Otocinclus
Otos are relatively hardy in terms of water parameters and can live in fish tanks with temperatures between 70-79°F (21-26°C), pH of 6.0–7.5, and soft to hard water. As mentioned before, they do best in a mature aquarium with lots of algae and biofilm, especially one that is planted and has plenty of hiding spots. In fact, when we collected fish in Peru, we often found them by lifting up pieces of wood from the water, so they probably feel safer there and like foraging on the driftwood for microfauna. The rivers we found them in were murky with silt and tannins, so some hobbyists like to dim the lights or add catappa leaves to tint the water. Consider getting slow-growing plants with flat leaves that are known to be algae-magnets, such as Anubias barteri. Also, we tend to only scrape off algae from the front aquarium panel so that it can grow on the other three walls and provide more food for the otos.
How many otocinclus should be kept together? Usually, we suggest keeping schooling fish in as large of a group as possible, but the problem with otocinclus is that too many of them may end up consuming all the algae in the aquarium. It is much better to have a couple of plump and healthy otos than a school of six that are slowly starving to death over time. The best thing you can do is to not overstock the tank with otocinclus (and other algae eaters) to make sure there’s enough algae and food to go around.
What fish can live with otocinclus? Otocinclus don’t have a mean bone in their bodies and are well-suited for peaceful community setups. Avoid any aggressive species that will pick on them or are large enough to eat them. Instead, choose other similar-sized, docile tank mates that won’t outcompete them for food — such as tetras, rasboras, corydoras, kuhli loaches, snails, and dwarf shrimp. While all fish will opportunistically eat whatever can fit in their mouths, we have even housed our otos with baby fish and shrimp and experienced minimal casualties.
Otocinclus hanging out with a school of blackline tetras
What Do Otocinclus Catfish Eat?
The reason why otocinclus have such specialized dietary requirements is because they are aufwuchs grazers that primarily suck off the slimy layer that grows on underwater plants and hardscape. This biofilm is made up of algae, diatoms, insect larvae, tiny crustaceans, and other microorganisms. That is why otos don’t tend to take to flake foods, pellets, or other normal community fish foods. Instead, they need foods that allow them to constantly graze, last for a long time in the water without breaking apart, and won’t be immediately gulped down by other species.
Not every oto eats the same thing, so keep trying different foods to see what they like — like canned green beans, algae wafers, and softened zucchini slices that have been blanched (or slightly boiled) and sitting in the aquarium water for more than 24 hours. One of our favorite foods to feed them is Repashy Soilent Green gel food, which is specially formulated for aufwuchs grazers. Just stir the powder in hot water, and while the mixture is still runny, paint it or spoon it onto a round rock or piece of driftwood. In fact, don’t forget to add driftwood and catappa leaves into their tank (even without Repashy gel food) because otos like to graze on the natural biofilm that forms as the plant fibers break down. You can tell when they are full because their bellies look like a round, white pearl. Oto munching on a slice of zucchini
How to Breed Otocinclus Catfish
In general, otocinclus have breeding behaviors that are very similar to corydoras catfish. The females are a little bigger and broader than males, especially when they are full of eggs. To condition them for spawning, feed them lots of their normal foods and introduce more protein in their diet — such as live and frozen baby brine shrimp and micro worms. Some hobbyists try to induce breeding by doing 50% water changes to imitate seasonal flooding and heavy rainfall. Like cory catfish, the mating pair forms a T position and then the female lays adhesive eggs on plant leaves and other surfaces. These clutches of 30–40 eggs should be removed or they may get eaten by other fish. Sometimes the eggs can be extremely sticky and hard to roll off.
Put the eggs into a hatching container with an air stone and wait about 3 days for the fry to hatch. The fry can be fed green water, soft algae that grows on surfaces, spirulina powder, live paramecium, soft vegetables, and tiny, 5–50 micron powdered fry foods. Eventually, you can add live baby brine shrimp to their diet for faster growth. Because of their miniscule size, make sure to use gentle flow with a sponge filter or block the intake tube of your filter with a pre-filter sponge.
Zebra or tiger otocinclus (O. cocama)
Otocinclus catfish are the sweetest, little fish to add to your planted community tank, and if you invest some love and care, they will happily thrive for years.
Care Guide for Pygmy Corydoras – The World’s Tiniest Cory Catfish
Cory catfish are beloved in the freshwater aquarium hobby because of their happy-go-lucky nature and interesting behaviors, such as constantly shuffling through the substrate for snacks. While some hobbyists enjoy keeping the larger species, like the hognosed brochis (Corydoras multiradiatus) or emerald cory catfish (C. splendens), nano aquarium enthusiasts take special pleasure in finding the most petite corys. The pygmy cory (C. pygmaeus) has become quite popular because of its adorable appearance and unique swimming style. Learn about what it takes to care for one of the smallest corydoras in the world.
Pygmy cory perched on a plant leaf
What are Pygmy Cory Catfish?
This tiny South American schooling fish grows to a grand total of 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length, with females being slightly rounder and longer than males. Its silvery body with a horizontal, black stripe is not particularly colorful, but it’s hard to resist those big, black eyes and little whiskers that look like a mustache. Like many cory catfish, they like to “wink” by quickly looking down and will dart up to the water surface to take the occasional gulp of air. In contrast though, most corydoras are known as bottom dwellers, whereas pygmy corys have the unusual habit of hovering midwater by flapping their fins, almost like an underwater hummingbird.
What is the difference between the habrosus, hastatus, and pygmy cory? All three of these dwarf corydoras are similar in size and coloration. However, they have clear differences in their patterns that you can easily identify:
C. habrosus (salt and pepper cory): silvery body with an uneven, horizontal black stripe, a tail covered with stripes, and darker splotches on the head and back
C. hastatus (tail spot cory): silvery body with a big, black spot at the base of the tail that is flanked by small, white dots
C. pygmaeus (pygmy cory): silvery body with a thin, horizontal black stripe
Left to right: C. hasbrosus, C. hastatus, and C. pygmaeus
How to Set Up an Aquarium for Pygmy Corys
Pygmy corydoras were originally discovered in the river basins of Brazil, so they are used to pH of 6.4–7.5 and moderately soft water. They also appreciate slightly cooler temperatures between 72–78°F (22–26°C). In the wild, they are prone to predation and therefore like to hide amongst the tree roots and vegetation along the riverbanks. To make them feel more comfortable in your home aquarium, add plenty of plants and hardscape for cover. We often find them perched on anubias leaves and driftwood branches to give them a bird’s eye view of what’s going on in the tank.
How many pygmy corys should be kept together? While a small group could technically fit in a 5-gallon nano tank, they can be a bit shy. Instead, get a 10-gallon or larger aquarium so that you can keep a bigger school of at least 8–12 pygmies that will be less afraid to come out.
What fish can live with pygmy corydoras? Like most cory catfish, pygmy corys are very peaceful community fish that wouldn’t harm a fly. Because they are fairly petite, make sure not to pair them with anything big enough to eat them. Also, they are not the fastest eaters, so don’t let them get outcompeted for food during mealtimes. We find that they do well with other nano species — like neon tetras, chili rasboras, celestial pearl danios, otocinclus, and even a chill betta fish. Also, they won’t bother your snails or adult-sized dwarf shrimp, although they may accidentally slurp up a baby shrimp while foraging.
Pygmy corys swimming midwater with lambchop rasboras
What Do Pygmy Corydoras Eat?
As a species that hangs out in the lower half of the aquarium, they prefer to graze off the ground or on the surfaces of plant leaves. Their little, downturned mouths are most suited for eating sinking foods that are either tiny in size or soft enough to nibble on. For example, frozen bloodworms are often too hefty to easily swallow, but frozen daphnia, cyclops, and baby brine shrimp are perfectly bite-sized. In terms of dry foods, nano pellets, freeze-dried tubifex worm, and sinking wafers are all good options that have worked well for us. One of their favorite foods is Repashy gel food — whenever we drop in a chunk, they all seem to swarm on it like bees to honey.
How to Breed Pygmy Corydoras
While pygmy corys may not be as easy to breed as bronze or albino corys (C. aeneus), many hobbyists have had success with them in home aquariums. Take a mature, 10-gallon tank that is full of plants, mulm, and microfauna for the fry to feed on. Add a colony of at least six corys to increase your chances of having both males and females and feed them well. Be patience because it may take a little while for newly purchased corys to mature if you got them as juveniles. When the female is ready and full of eggs, she is often followed by an entourage of smaller males who are hoping to mate with her.
Unlike other corys that usually lay a cluster of eggs all in the same spot, the female pygmy will deposit a single, sticky egg — about 1 mm in diameter — on a strand of java moss or the roots of floating water sprite. Then she will swim to another location to place the next egg and repeat this process until tens of eggs have been laid. There are varying reports on whether or not the parents tend to eat their own eggs, but just in case, some breeders like to gently remove the eggs with their fingers and place them in a well-aerated spawning container. They may add a few drops of methylene blue, some alder cones, or even dwarf shrimp to clean off any fungal growth.
The eggs start off as translucent white and then eventually change colors. Fertilized eggs become a translucent yellow-tan, whereas unfertilized eggs turn solid white and should be removed to prevent fungus from spreading. Depending on the water temperature, the eggs usually hatch within 2–5 days, and the newborn fry have a translucent body, two black eyes, and a black band behind their head. Within a couple of days, they develop three more black dots down their back, which eventually become a fully mottled pattern all over the body to help with camouflage. Eventually, these splotches combine to form the classic black stripe running their lateral line. This rapid transformation happens within a month or so, such that the juveniles look just like miniature adults and can be hard to tell apart from their parents.
As with most babies of nano species, start off with nearly microscopic foods like vinegar eels, infusoria, and 5–50 micron golden pearls until they’re big enough to eat live baby brine shrimp and Repashy gel food. Provide frequent small meals and frequent small water changes to keep the water quality high.
Pygmy corys love laying their eggs in dense foliage like java moss.
Betta fish are great first-time pets for anyone. They are calm, slow-moving fish that don’t require the space that many other fish do.
Here is everything you need to know about caring for your new betta fish–ensuring they have a long and happy life.
Characteristics of Betta Fish
Difficulty of Care
Beginner
Average Life Span
3–5 years with proper care
Average Adult Size
2.5 inches long, not including tail
Diet
Carnivorous
Minimum Habitat Size
1 gallon or larger
Water Temperature
72–82 F
pH
6.0–8.0
Betta Fish Supply Checklist
To keep a betta happy and healthy, keep these basic supplies on hand:
Appropriate size aquarium
Appropriate food (dry and frozen)
Décor
Water Test Strips
Water conditioner
Net
Freshwater substrate
Filter
Heater
Freshwater aquarium salt
Betta Fish Habitat
Choosing the Right Enclosure
Single betta fish should be kept in an aquarium with at least a 1-gallon capacity. Bettas need to be able to breathe from the surface of the water. Keep in mind, betta like to jump out of aquariums, so there must be space at the top of the aquarium below the lid for them to surface and breathe.
Male bettas need to be kept individually and do best in habitats that are 1 gallon or larger. Male bettas can live successfully in a community aquarium that’s 10 gallons or larger if the tank does not have aggressive fish species (such as tiger barbs, gouramis, or giant danios) or fish that bettas may become aggressive toward (such as fancy guppies).
Female bettas can be housed with other community fish or other female bettas of a similar size. If deciding to keep female betta fish in a small group, make sure that the aquarium’s capacity is at least 15 gallons (depending on the number of fish) and provide numerous hiding places within the habitat.
Selecting Tankmates
Bettas can be territorial and prone to fight–male bettas must be housed separately or be the only betta fish in a community tank stocked with non-aggressive fish species. Male and female betta fish should not be kept in the same aquarium.
Female betta fish can be housed alongside other community fish or female bettas. If more than one female betta is kept in the same tank, be sure to provide them with ample space to swim, hide, and establish territories.
It’s important to know that male bettas will attack other male bettas, and males have been known to attack similar-looking fish or fish with flowing fins. It is highly recommended that male bettas are not housed together or with other long-fin species. If you choose to get more than one betta fish, be sure to ask the sex of the fishes so you select two females.
Filtration
Even in smaller aquariums, betta fish can benefit from the addition of a filtration system to their habitat. Aside from keeping tanks looking clean, filters remove harmful toxins like ammonia from the aquarium’s water and add oxygen to the water so fish can breathe.
An aquarium’s filter should be powerful enough to process all the water in the tank at least four times an hour. For example, a 5-gallon tank should ideally have an aquarium filter with a flow rate that’s at least 20 gallons per hour (GPH). If only a 10 or 30 GPH filter is available, purchase the 30 GPH option.
Bettas aren’t fans of a ton of movement in their environment, so look for a filter that allows them to control the flow rate so they can keep current speeds low in the tank.
Selecting Tankmates
Bettas can be territorial and prone to fight–male bettas must be housed separately or be the only betta fish in a community tank stocked with non-aggressive fish species. Male and female betta fish should not be kept in the same aquarium.
Female betta fish can be housed alongside other community fish or female bettas. If more than one female betta is kept in the same tank, be sure to provide them with ample space to swim, hide, and establish territories.
It’s important to know that male bettas will attack other male bettas, and males have been known to attack similar-looking fish or fish with flowing fins. It is highly recommended that male bettas are not housed together or with other long-fin species. If you choose to get more than one betta fish, be sure to ask the sex of the fishes so you select two females.
Filtration
Even in smaller aquariums, betta fish can benefit from the addition of a filtration system to their habitat. Aside from keeping tanks looking clean, filters remove harmful toxins like ammonia from the aquarium’s water and add oxygen to the water so fish can breathe.
An aquarium’s filter should be powerful enough to process all the water in the tank at least four times an hour. For example, a 5-gallon tank should ideally have an aquarium filter with a flow rate that’s at least 20 gallons per hour (GPH). If only a 10 or 30 GPH filter is available, purchase the 30 GPH option.
Bettas aren’t fans of a ton of movement in their environment, so look for a filter that allows them to control the flow rate so they can keep current speeds low in the tank.
Temperature
To keep a betta fish healthy, ensure the water temperature is maintained at 72-82 F. An aquatic heater should be installed in the tank to ensure that water temperatures stay within an ideal range and do not fluctuate more than +/- 2 F in a single day. Heaters should be paired with a thermostat to regulate the aquarium’s temperature and prevent the water from rising above the ideal range.
Check the water temperature of the tank daily using an aquarium thermometer.
Décor & Accessories
The bottom of a betta fish’s aquarium should be lined with at least 1–2 inches of freshwater substrate.
Aquariums need about 1 ½-pounds of substrate for each gallon of water in the tank. For example, a 10-gallon tank will require about 15 pounds of substrate to create a 1- to 2-inch layer.
Be sure to rinse the substrate with clean, running water before adding it to the tank.
Cleaning & Maintenance of Betta Fish
Pet parents can maintain the condition of their betta’s tank by performing routine water changes (no more than 10-25% of the aquarium’s total water volume) every two to four weeks. Avoid draining and replacing all the water. Removing all the water will also remove the beneficial bacteria in the tank that helps keep the habitat’s ecosystem healthy.
Most aquariums will need a full cleaning once a month, depending on the number of fish in the tank. To fully clean a fish tank, take these steps:
Before cleaning or performing any maintenance on an aquarium, wash your hands thoroughly, to remove any traces of lotions, perfumes, or other toxic chemicals that can harm fish. Do not remove the fish from the aquarium because it will stress them out and possibly injure them.
Remove the aquarium’s accessories and any artificial plants that have significant algae growth. Use an algae pad and hot water to scrub any build-up or debris.
If the décor is still visibly dirty after being scrubbed, use a 3% bleach solution to remove the stubborn build-up. Accessories should soak in the diluted bleach solution for 15 minutes before being rinsed thoroughly with running water until there are no residual smells from the bleach. After cleaning, leave the accessories to air-dry fully.
Inspect the aquarium’s filter to ensure it’s working properly and doesn’t have any algae buildup. If the filter needs to be cleaned, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Use a siphon vacuum to remove waste or old food from the bottom of the tank. This step will also drain water from the tank and prepare the aquarium for a water change.
Once the aquarium’s gravel is vacuumed, check on the cleaned décor to ensure that all furnishings are fully dried and do not have a bleachy smell before adding them back to the tank.
Add new, dechlorinated water to the tank to replace the water that was siphoned out. The new water must be detoxified with a water conditioner to remove toxic chemicals like chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. The added water should be at the same temperature as the existing water in the tank.
Use an aquarium-safe cleaner to clean the outer walls of the aquarium. Household cleaners should be avoided, as they often have ammonia and other chemicals that are toxic to fish.
Diet & Nutrition for Betta Fish
Betta fish are prone to obesity and bloating, so only feed them once a day.. Overfeeding can also cloud and foul tank water (especially in smaller, unfiltered aquariums). Uneaten food should be removed to prevent excess nitrite and ammonia in the water.
A well-balanced betta fish diet consists of:
A variety of meat-based fish foods, including flakes, pellets, freeze-dried bloodworms, daphnia, and frozen foods.
Frozen foods should be thawed before feeding.
Baby betta fish should be fed a smaller pellet or finely crushed flake food.
Treats, including frozen/thawed or live blood worms or brine shrimp, offered in limited quantities; feed treats in moderation to prevent obesity.
Caring for Your Betta Fish
Change 10–25% of the total volume of the water evert two to four weeks, or more often if needed. The tank’s water quality should be tested at least once a week for two months (with any new fish/plants/equipment) and then monthly thereafter to check the pH, nitrite, nitrate, ammonia, carbonate, and general hardness levels.
Before being added to an aquarium, water must be treated with a water conditioner to remove toxic chemicals like chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. The added water should be at the same temperature as the existing water in the tank.
Veterinary Care for Betta Fish
Annual Care
You can perform your own water quality tests and water changes weekly, and to only utilize a veterinarian if there is a problem with your betta. Almost all bettas first introduced to your home will likely have at least one health issue, so it is recommended to have them and your setup assessed by a veterinarian within a week of establishing them at your home.
A veterinarian will assess your fish if they are moved from a quarantine tank to a larger tank with other fish. While a betta can be transported to a vet, it is recommended to find an aquatics veterinarian who will make house calls or can chat via telehealth.
Signs of a Healthy Betta
Bright coloration
Full range of motion of fin movement, equal on both sides
Intact fins all the way to the edges with no discoloration
Regular and active swim pattern
Large appetite
When to Call a Vet
Changes to the betta’s coloration: becoming dull, focal spots of change, stripes or bands of color change
Lethargic swimming when the fish is circling, listing to the side, staying on the top or bottom of the tank, etc.
Receding fin edges with or without discoloration at the edges
Decreased appetite for more than a day
Itching
Rapid breathing potentially with flared gills
Gill color changes
Presence of lumps/bumps/masses
White growths/spots of any kind
Common Illnesses in Betta Fish
Fin/tail rot
Dropsy (fluid filled body cavity)
Parasites
Bacterial infections
Cancer
Ich
Pop eye
Fungal oral or skin infections
Swim bladder disorders
Betta Fish FAQs
Are betta fish easy to care for?
Bettas are extremely easy to care for! Once you have their tank set up and arranged appropriately, they have minimal daily and weekly care needs.
What do betta fish need in their tank?
Betta fish need a minimum 5-gallon, ideally 10-gallon tank size with a filter and a heater. It’s recommended to opt for live plants rather than plastic ones for decorations because the plastic plants can hurt and damage their fins.
Can betta fish live in tap water?
Bettas are freshwater fish but can live in tap water. Keep in mind the tap water must be treated first.
How do you know a betta fish is happy?
A happy betta fish will have an active and curious personality, eat well daily, have gorgeous colorful intact fins, and swim comfortably around their tank with no odd behaviors.
MALE VS FEMALE BETTA
The Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens) is one of the most interesting tropical fish in the aquarium hobby. Many experienced fish keepers started out with just a single male betta fish, and you can walk into pretty much any pet store and find a selection of these wonderful fish.
Surprisingly, females are much rarer, and many people have never even seen one! But why are female betta fish rare, and how are they different from the males? Read along to find out!
Key Takeaways
Female bettas usually have smaller fins and less color than male bettas
Most bettas in pet stores are male
Female bettas are less aggressive than males, but they will still fight with each other
It is possible to keep female bettas together, but male bettas should be kept on their own
Male Vs Female Betta Appearance
Male and female bettas can look very similar unless you know exactly what to look for. Let’s say you just walked into the pet store and you want to pick out a single female betta fish. How would you know which is which? The best approach is to look at a combination of small differences.
Ready to learn? Let’s get started!
Size and Body Shape
Male bettas are slightly longer and leaner than females. The length difference usually only comes down to about a quarter inch or so, but the body width can be pretty noticeable. Females are wider across the back and belly, which is especially noticeable when viewed from above.
Fins
Bettas are loved for their amazing long fins. There are loads of different betta breeds, and some look very different from others. Elephant ear bettas are just bursting with fins, while plakat betta fish have relatively small, and compact fins.
So how do you tell female and male betta fish apart by their fins? Male betta fish generally have larger fins and females have shorter fins. The difference is pretty clear in most betta breeds, but in smaller-finned varieties, the ventral fin is the best place to look.
Let’s take a look at the various betta fish fins and how they differ:
Pelvic/Ventral fin
The ventral fins are the paired fins that hang down below the body, just behind the gills. Male betta fish have much larger and longer ventral fins.
Anal Fins
The anal fin is the long flowing fin that extends from behind the ventral fin all the way to the tail. This is the largest fin on some betta fish breeds. Male betta fish have much longer anal fins than females, and this can be a good clue for telling them apart.
Caudal fin (tail)
Male betta fish have longer tails than females. The size difference is very obvious in some breeds like the rose tails, but not very clear with plakat betta fish.
Color
Male betta fish are usually more colorful than females. Females tend to have more gray and silver colors, but sometimes they can be even more colorful than male bettas.
Egg Spot
Female bettas have an egg spot between their ventral and anal fins. This small bump is the ovipositor tube where the eggs are released. The egg spot is another useful clue for telling male and female betta fish apart.
Gill Plate Cover
Betta fish can flare out their gill plate covers (operculum). Both male and female betta fish do this to show dominance and aggression, but the male fish tend to flare more often.
The larger gill plate cover of male betta fish looks kind of like a beard, so that’s a good way to remember this difference.
Behavior
Male and female betta fish can look a lot alike, but some unique behaviors really help set them apart.
Here’s what to look for:
Bubble Nests
Bettas are from the Osphronemidae family, a group of fish that build bubble nests where the eggs develop in a more oxygen-rich environment. Males create bubble nests, and they will do this even if they are kept alone in their own tanks.
Bubble nests are basically small rafts of bubbles that float together at the water’s surface. The size of the bubble nest varies, and it can often be found in the corner of an aquarium, especially after a water change. Female betta fish can also make bubble nests but this is pretty rare.
Temperament
Captive-bred betta fish tend to be far more aggressive than the wild fish they were bred from. There are many types of wild bettas, however, so it really depends on the species.
Domesticated Betta splendens are extremely popular in the fish-keeping hobby today but they were originally bred for sport. That’s right, bettas were bred to fight, and generations of winners have produced a pretty mean breed of fish!
Male bettas tend to be more aggressive than females, but each fish has his or her own personality. The difference in temperament means female betta fish are a little more flexible when it comes to tank mates. Read more about this later in the article.
Care
Male and female betta fish have very similar care needs. There are some slight differences that we’ll get into below, but both sexes need good water quality, enough space, and a healthy diet to live a long, happy life.
Tank Setup
Betta fish need an aquarium of at least 5 gallons. You might buy them in a cup over at the pet store, but they will not live for very long in such cramped conditions. Here’s a basic setup for male or female betta fish:
Those four core components are vital for keeping your fish healthy. You’ll also want to decorate your tank of course, and that’s where some potential differences come into play.
Aquarium Decorations
Betta fish do not need to have substrate in their tank, but you’ll probably want to add a layer of aquarium-safe gravel to the bottom of your aquarium for aesthetic reasons.
Caves and ornaments will add interest to your tank and make it a more natural and stimulating environment for your fish.
Unfortunately, the long, flowing fins of the male betta fish can tear very easily, so you need to be extra careful when choosing decorations. Avoid anything with sharp edges that could cause damage. Females are less vulnerable than male bettas because they have short fins, but it’s still something to think about.
Plastic plants can be especially dangerous for your fish so choose soft, silk plants, or even better, grow the real thing! Aquatic plants are surprisingly easy and fun to grow and care for.
Water Quality
Keeping male or female betta fish healthy in the long run requires good water quality. So how do you make sure your water is safe and healthy for your fish?
Let’s take a look at the basics of betta fish tank maintenance.
The water in your betta fish tank changes over time as fish waste and excess food accumulate. This causes chemical changes in the water due to the nitrogen cycle, and the water becomes more and more toxic for your fish.
The only way to monitor these changes is to test your water regularly and perform partial water changes whenever necessary. Growing some live aquatic plants can certainly improve your water quality, but you’ll still need to roll up your sleeves once, twice, or even four times each month.
Feeding Your Betta Fish
Male and female betta fish can be fed the same diet. You can feed these tropical fish small prepared foods for freshwater aquarium fish or choose from some excellent betta pellets made specifically for your siamese fighting fish. A high-quality diet can bring out the best in your betta fish colors.
Supplementary live and frozen foods like bloodworms make a tasty treat for your Siamese-fighting fish and are a great way to get your fish into good spawning condition if you plan on breeding them.
Tank Mates
The only real downside to betta fish is their aggressive behavior towards other bettas. Most Siamese fighting fish keepers keep just one fish in their own tank.
These beautiful fish can actually get along just fine with many species in a community aquarium, however. But how do you know which other fish will get along with your betta?
Betta fish can be kept with other small tropical fish that enjoy the same water parameters and tank conditions. They should only be kept with peaceful fish, of course, because bettas can be bullied and hurt by other species.
Never keep Siamese fighting fish with fin nippers like tiger barbs, or any aggressive or large and predatory fish.
Read on for some great betta fish community tank mates!
Betta fish tend to fight with their own species, which is why it’s always best to keep them on their own. You probably know that male bettas should never be kept with other males. It is possible to keep a female fish with other female betta fish, however, and this is known as a betta sorority.
Betta sororities don’t always work out because female bettas can still be aggressive toward other females. If you do go this route, a 20+ gallon tank size is going to be your safest bet, and you’ll need to carefully monitor your fish and be ready to move them to another tank if you notice any aggression.
Bettas are not very social fish, so there’s nothing wrong with keeping a single female in her own tank.
Keeping Male and Female Bettas Together
Keeping male and female betta fish together in the same tank is a bad idea! These fish can be very aggressive towards their own species and will often hurt each other very badly- or worse.
It is possible to keep two bettas together in the same tank if you have a divider in the aquarium. A tank divider is a physical barrier that keeps the fish apart but allows water to flow between both sides of the tank, making water quality easier to maintain.
A divider that is opaque or partially clear is the best bet because this minimizes flaring and fighting between the fish on either side of the divider. Your bettas will be able to sense each other even with a solid divider in the tank, so using separate tanks is recommended unless you plan on breeding the fish.
Breeding Betta fish
You’re probably wondering how betta fish breed if the males and females are so aggressive toward each other! There is a good video by Aquaplanets that shows the process below.
It is possible to breed betta fish at home, although you need to be quite careful to avoid aggression and fighting. Keeping the pair together in a divided tank is a great way to introduce them safely since they will be able to sense each other’s hormones and prepare to reproduce.
Only healthy, well-conditioned male and female bettas should be bred, and the pair should be moved into a separate, dedicated breeding tank. The female can be kept in a breeder box until the male has built his bubble nest and they are ready to mate.
Once the eggs are laid, the female should be removed from the tank because the male will begin to attack her. He does this because female bettas will eat their own eggs. The male fish can be kept in the breeding tank until all the eggs have hatched and the fry are free swimming.
FAQs
Is a male or female betta better?
Both male and female bettas make wonderful pets, so it’s impossible to choose which is best! Male betta fish usually have a better variety of bright colors and longer fins, however, so they tend to be more popular as display fish.
Can 1 male and 2 female betta fish live together?
You should not attempt to keep male and betta fish together in the same tank. Sure, it does work out now and then, but there’s a good chance that it will end in tragedy because these fish often fight to the death.
Are male or female bettas easier to take care of?
Male and female bettas have the same general care needs, so they are equally easy to care for.
Are female bettas less aggressive than males?
Females tend to be less aggressive than male bettas but this is not always the case. In fact, female bettas often kill males, so both sexes should be treated as aggressive fish.
Can female bettas be kept together?
It is possible to keep females together but this is not advisable for beginner fish keepers. This type of setup is known as a betta sorority and should consist of at least 5 females in a tank size of 20 gallons or more.
Should female bettas be alone?
Female betta fish can be kept alone, and this is the easiest and safest way to care for them. They need a heated and filtered tank of at least 5 gallons to stay healthy in the long run.
Are female bettas aggressive?
Female betta fish can be very aggressive. They tend to be less aggressive than the male bettas but each female betta fish has her own personality of course.
How can you tell if a betta fish is a female?
Female betta fish tend to be smaller and less colorful than their male counterparts. They also have a thicker body, shorter ventral and anal fins, a smaller gill plate cover, and a characteristic egg spot at their vent.
Final Thoughts
Knowing how to tell the sexes apart is really important, especially if you plan on breeding these fish or setting up a sorority tank. Unfortunately, pet stores don’t always keep female betta fish in stock because they aren’t as colorful as the males, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t awesome pets!
In this topic, will be explaining how to successfully keep a Female Betta Sorority, the basics, how to, setting up, etc.
First and foremost, you may ask: “What is a Betta sorority tank?”. A Betta sorority is a tank full of female bettas that (Hopefully) can live in peace together. I bet your thinking, “But I thought when Bettas are together, they fight?”. You see females are generally more peaceful / passive than male Bettas, they can in most cases be kept in set ups with multiple other female bettas & community set-ups (Unlike most males). Again, let me remind you that a Betta sorority tank has a 50/50 chance of being successful (Every betta has a different personality – it really just depends on each of the individuals bettas personalities if they can do ok with each other). I have found that, in most sororities, the female bettas form a pecking order and are able to successfully live with one another. Anyway, enough talk about a sorority, let’s get on to the tank details.
Tank Size:
For keeping a sorority, at least a 10 gallon minimum is recommended (Some may disagree though), preferably a 20 gallon aquarium minimum. Anything under 10 gallons will not work due to room and bioload issues. Why I recommend a 10 gallon is because in a sorority, you will need at least 4 – 6 girls or more (And a 10 gallon can hold up to 6 girls comfortably). Don’t ever put just two or three females together, it won’t work. You see, with two females, there will be one Superior female and one Inferior female – the Superior female will have the dominance of the tank most indefinitely attack the Inferior female and most likely kill her. With three, the two dominant females will gang up on the more passive girl and kill her given the opportunity. Four, I have had success with, but I would recommend that you start out with a higher number.
Make sure that you have a lid for your sorority as females bettas are excellent jumpers. I have had 2 deaths from Bettas jumping (Female) so far and it wasn’t pleasant. From what I have looked at, it seems that females jump more often than males (Why I said is because with all that extra finnage, males don’t really attempt to jump out of the tank as often as females – though this does not mean it isn’t possible for males either).
I would as well recommend a light for the tank. It’s more appealing to view your bettas with a light than it is without and the tank just doesn’t look as good without a light. Some lights, like fluorescent as well bring out the Bettas best color. Lights are a must if you plan on keeping live plants (And it depends on the type of plants you want to keep you might have to get more lighting or not).
Substrate:
Really any substrate for this set-up will do. You could either do sand, regular aquarium gravel, etc. But if you do decide to use sand, make sure that you pop the nitrogen pockets in the sand every water change because if not, it could be deadly to your females (And other fish as well). Just when doing the water changes, simply stir your fingers around in the sand. Or as an alternative, just buy some Malaysian Trumpet Snails (They bury themselves deeper than what other snails would and will pop the nitrogen pockets for you instead. If you plan on keeping the tank planted, don’t bother vacuuming the tank, just do a regular water change.
I use black aqua soil in my 10 gallon sorority and the females don’t mind it at all. The black makes the green from the plants pop more as well.
Filter:
Now you will need to look for a nice filter for the tank, just like any other tank. The filter rules applies to this tank just as it does any other tank. Just in case you don’t know, I will teach you. Generally you will be wanting a filter that turns over the water 8X – 10X the water volume and that equals the amount of GPH (Gallons Per Hour) required for the filter. So basically: 10 gallons X 10 = 100 GPH, 30 gallons X 10 = 300 GPH, 55 gallons X 10 = 550 GPH, and so on. I would recommend that you use 10X (I personally the most filtration I can get on a tank without a problem). So when choosing your filter, make sure that it you look at the GPH of the filter prior to purchase (It should be somewhere on the back or bottom or wherever). The only thing that you need to watch out for is if the flow is strong on the filter or not (Bettas are not very found of strong flows at all) – if your filter does have a strong flow, add some filter floss at the output (Put enough so that the flow is reduced, but not stopped).
If you plan on having no filter on your tank and daily 100% water changes a day, that’s fine too. It’s a lot of work, but I love that people are that dedicated to their fish. Just make sure to include plants in your tank because they work as a form of filtration by neutralizing all the waste your fish make, and making the water safe for your fish.
I personally recommend the AquaClear series for smaller tanks because they don’t produce much of a strong flow and the flow is adjustable. I have an AC20 on my 10 gallon sorority and a AC30 on my 10 gallon Endler breeding tank and neither the bettas or endlers are bothered by the soft flow.
Heater & Thermometer:
Another important need for a Betta sorority (Really any tank) is a heater. Bettas are a Tropical species and will always do better in warmer waters than cooler waters (Although they can survive in cooler waters, again they are a tropical fish, would not be as comfortable and would have some health issues as well). If you plan on heating your tank simply by room temperature, that’s your choice. Now, you will need to look for a heater that will be able to heat the tank up to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (As in some situations you may need it). A good general rule to choosing a heater is using the 50 watts per 10 gallon rule.
As for a thermometer, don’t buy the ones that stick to the glass as they are inaccurate. Use glass thermometers, they will most likely give the most accurate result. You may even get an electronic thermometer. I personally like the electronic thermometer, easy to use and doesn’t take much space.
Decorations:
This is one of the most important things to focus on when keeping a sorority. Each of the females will need to claim their own territory or “home” that they can patrol around and hide in when necessary. There are many decorations to choose from, but I would recommend that you at least have a few caves and quite a few plants (Real or fake) in there with them. If you look to use fake plants, I recommend that you use silk plants so they won’t rip the bettas fins (There are a few plastic plants that will work, but you will have to test the plastic plants before you put them in your tank. To perform this test, you will need to get a piece of panty hose and run it across the fake plant – if the panty hose goes over the plant just fine, the plant is safe, if it snags, it will most likely do the same thing to your bettas fins).
If you plan on making your tank planted, go ahead, it’ll make it seem more natural for your Bettas. But if you do plant the tank, make sure that you meet the requirements of the plant you have.
I have live and plastic plants in my sorority currently as well as a few caves and my bettas love it. I plan on removing the plastic plants soon and make it all real plants.
Picking and Adding your Betta Females:
First and foremost, before you add any females to your tank, make sure that the tank is cycled and ready for their introduction. When choosing your Bettas, get them from a good source. If you can, try and get sisters as they would have been together since they were hatched and would be used to each other, however this is not always possible. Also, make sure that they are generally all the same size, none bigger and smaller than the others.
Now, adding the female Bettas is not the same as adding other fish, like 2 to 3 at a time. You have to add the Bettas all within the same time, if not, you would most definitely have to rearrange your tank and try to introduce them together again. Now, the technique that I am about to tell you was picked up a long time ago from another longtime fishkeeper and always has worked for me. You start with your most passive female, put her in the tank and give her 15 or 20 minutes to nose around and check things out. Then you add the next least aggressive female and watch them closely, always being ready to pull one out immediately if things get too rough. A small amount of fin nipping and body slamming is to be expected, but if you see one aggressively attacking another then it is time to make other arrangements for one of them. Continue to add your females, one every 15 to 20 minutes in the order of most passive to most aggressive with your most aggressive Female going in last.
Watch the tank carefully the next week or two. At first, the females will be chasing and nipping each other, but it shouldn’t be too bad. Eventually, they will most likely form a pecking order among themselves and all the fighting will subside.
Make sure not to overstock the tank either, 6 is the max female bettas, 4 is the minimum (but I would really recommend that 6 is the minimum as well). Bettas, unlike other fish, seem to like it overcrowded with other female Bettas. If you decide to add more fish, besides bettas, I would recommend that you get a bigger tank and compatible tanks-mates.
That pretty much covers all the basics to keeping a female Betta sorority tank. But always have a back-up plan in case that any female Betta you have is too aggressive to be kept in a sorority and must be kept by itself.
African dwarf frogs were first discovered in rivers, streams, puddles, and shallow ponds in various regions throughout Central Africa in the late 19th century. They are members of the Hymenochirus genus of aquatic frog species and are easily confused in appearance with the other frog species in their group, the African clawed frogs. While these fully aquatic amphibians both belong to the Pipidae family and may appear to look similar, they do have different physical and behavioral traits, which are important for beginner African dwarf frog owners to identify prior to adoption.
Identifying Male and Female African Dwarf Frogs
There are several distinct features that make it easy to identify male and female African dwarf frogs. Male African dwarf frogs are typically smaller in size as they mature, develop small glands behind their front legs called post-axillary subdermal glands, have a small tail, and “buzz” quite loud when they are excited or trying to attract their mates. Females are typically larger in size with pear-shape bodies as they mature, develop longer tails, and aren’t known to buzz. When the males buzz, it is typically at night when they are most active. African dwarf frogs are nocturnal. In the wild, they hunt for food at night and rest during the day.
Choosing The Right Aquarium For Your African Dwarf Frog
The size of your aquarium will depend on how many African dwarf frogs you would like to raise. Since they are very small frogs and only grow to a maximum of 3 inches, a 2.5-gallon aquarium is recommended for housing one African dwarf frog. A 5-gallon aquarium is recommended for housing two, and a 10- to 20-gallon aquarium is recommended for more than two. Although African dwarf frogs are fully aquatic, they have lungs and need to rise to the surface of the water frequently for air. Their webbed feet make it difficult for them to swim in deep water. Avoid placing them in aquariums that are more than 12 inches deep. If their aquarium is too deep, they will struggle to reach the top for air and drown.
Setting Up Your African Dwarf Frog Aquarium
As with all herps, maintaining a proper living environment for your African dwarf frog is key to preventing stress, disease and a shortened life. The following tips for properly setting up and maintaining their living space are highly recommended:
Maintain water temperatures between 72-78 degrees Fahrenheit. The water should be similar temperatures to the African dwarf frog’s native habitat in Africa. A submersible heater and a digital thermometer are essential for maintaining these temperatures.
Maintain PH levels between 6.5 – 7.8. These levels can be monitored regularly using PH testing kits.
Use large aquarium gravel to cover the bottom of the tank. Gravel comes in different sizes and colors. If the grains are too small, the frogs can accidentally consume it and have a difficult time digesting it. This could lead to impaction and can be fatal. Sand is another option for substrate. It is recommended that a substrate be used in any aquarium, but some African dwarf frog keepers opt out of using substrate in fear of their frogs consuming it. It is a personal choice, but substrates make it easier to secure live and artificial plant decorations in the aquarium.
Always secure the aquarium with a lid. African dwarf frogs spend their whole lives underwater and are not capable of surviving on dry land for more than 15-20 minutes. If they escape, their skin will dry out and they will not survive. Be mindful that African dwarf frogs require oxygen at the water’s surface, so it is best to use a screen lid. If you use a solid lid, make sure it remains open a crack so that your frog can access air to breathe.
Avoid the use of large filters. African dwarf frogs are very sensitive to noise and they don’t have ears. They use the lateral lines on their bodies to sense vibrations. Large filters can induce stress and sickness. These frogs also prefer motionless water, so make sure the filters don’t cause strong water currents in the aquarium. An under-gravel filter is recommended. Always check with an aquarium specialist online or in store if you are uncertain. If the aquarium is small and maintained regularly, African dwarf frogs can do just fine without one.
Provide 10-12 hours of aquarium lighting daily. African dwarf frogs are nocturnal and require a regular day and night cycle. They don’t need UVB lighting like many reptile and amphibian species do. A basic LED hood light is sufficient. Avoid placing the aquarium in a room without windows. Rooms with natural sunlight will work just fine too.
Use filtered water in the aquarium. Raw water contains harmful chemicals such as chloramine and fluoride that can be toxic to all aquatic species. If you use tap water, be sure to treat it with anti-bacterial supplements and water conditioners prior to placing the African dwarf frog back in. Avoid the use of soap to clean the aquariums. Soap can leave residue in the aquarium and make the frogs sick.
Perform water changes bi-weekly. It is best to change at least 10-25% of the water every 2-4 weeks. If a filter is not being used, then it is best to change the water at least once a week. Frogs shed and can be messy eaters. Avoid performing full water changes. This could cause stress and fatally shock African dwarf frogs.
Avoid aquarium décor that is sharp and toxic. African dwarf frogs are hunted in the wild and require places where they can hide out in such as caves or logs. African dwarf frogs do well with artificial or real plants, but plants with sharp edges can tear at the frog’s skin. Some wood décor can contain harmful toxins that increase PH levels in the water. Always check with an aquatic specialist online or in store if you’re uncertain about which decorations to use.
Foods To Feed Your African Dwarf Frog
An African dwarf frog’s diet should contain a high protein and well-balanced selection of food consisting of specialized aquatic frog sinking pellets, freeze dried bloodworms, frozen brine shrimp, daphnia, and live blackworms. African dwarf frogs have poor vision and rely on their sense of smell and touch to eat. They have no tongues or teeth to help them chew, so the food that they consume should be cut up in small pieces and fed to them in small portions.
This species is endemic to South East Asia, particularly to the Borneo island. Known to be located in the Indonesian province of Kalimantan Selatan, the Mosquito rasbora’s natural habitat consists of rivers, black water streams and swamps.
These bodies of water are usually tinted dark brown due to the tannins released from decaying organic matter like leaves, twigs and tree branches. This process gives the water an acidic property with a pH value as low as 4.0.
The fish thrives in densely vegetated areas and prefers a dimly lit environment, giving its shy behavior. In order for it to feel safe and comfortable in your home aquarium, you should try to replicate these conditions as much as possible.
Description
With its distinctive colors and pattern, the Mosquito rasbora displays an orange-red body color with a brown-black mid lateral stripe and a dark spot at the base of the caudal fin.
Behaviour
Because of its shy nature and very small size, this fish is not suitable for community tanks. You either keep it alone or with other small and peaceful fish like Strawberry rasbora or the Least rasbora.
Mosquito rasbora are a shoaling species and so it should be kept in groups of at least 10 members. Doing so will make them more comfortable in the aquarium environment.
Diet
In its natural habitat, the Mosquito rasbora is an avid micropredator, feeding on zooplankton, worms, small insects and crustaceans.
While not a picky eater, make sure to provide the Mosquito rasbora with a varied diet. Beside staple dried foods like flakes and pellets, the fish will reach its optimal form only if you feed it live food such as Tubifex, Artemia and microworms, on a regular basis.
Chopped-up bloodworms are also an option as long as the pieces are small enough for the fish to easily consume.
Feed once or twice a day and make sure the food is eaten in a short period of time, around 3-5 minutes as leftovers will usually reach the bottom and spoil the aquarium water.
Reproduction
Mosquito rasbora males are slimmer and slightly smaller than females. They also display brighter colors: dark red and black highlight on fins. This is especially observed when they’re in breeding form. They will compete with each other for female attention, becoming more aggresive and territorial. The dominant males in the group will also showcase a deeper red.
Females are bulkier and not as intensely colored. When they carry eggs you can easily notice their bellies becoming more round.
Upon reaching sexual maturity, they will lay eggs almost daily. The parents will attempt to eat the eggs if they spot them so it’s best to remove the pair once the spawning process is over.
If your goal is to keep as many fry as possible then the best approach is to separate the breeding fish into a smaller tank (10-20 liters). Add heavy vegetation to the tank. Java moss or any other kind of aquatic moss works best for this purpose.
Keep a small air-powered sponge filter to maintain water quality in the breeding tank. The temperature should be slightly higher than usual, around 27 – 28°C. If you want, you can condition the fish a couple of days prior the spawning, by feeding them quality fresh live foods.
Once the eggs are laid and fertilised, remove the adult fish from the breeding tank. After 24 hours the eggs will hatch and the fry will live off of their yolk sacs. Feed them infusoria and freshly hatched Artemia after another 24 hours.
Betta fish can breathe out of water…if they need to!
Sugar
The anabantoids are also known as labyrinth fishes, which, unlike most other fishes, often do not rely primarily on the gills for respiration. The gills of labyrinth fishes are relatively small and primarily excrete the waste products ammonia and carbon dioxide. In fact, many labyrinth fishes are obligate air breathers, meaning they must breathe at the surface to survive. Other fishes have evolved a number of solutions to allow them to breathe air, including lungs and modifications to their gut and skin. Labyrinth fishes take their name from a specialized air-breathing structure called the labyrinth organ. Labyrinth fishes have paired chambers located above the gills which are extensions of the first gill arch. These chambers contain complex, folded, bony structures covered with respiratory epithelium (the labyrinth organ), allowing them to breathe air.
EVOLUTION, CULTURE, AND CARE FOR BETTA SPLENDENS Craig Watson, Matthew DiMaggio, Jeffrey Hill, Quenton Tuckett, and Roy Yanong
