Diatomaceous Earth (Food Grade) – Add a small amount (about 1 cup per 5 gallons of the mix). This helps to control parasites like mites and lice, but it should be used sparingly because too much can irritate their respiratory system.
Dirt – Start with about 2-3 inches of dry, loose dirt or soil as the base. This provides the primary surface for the chickens to dig into.
Sand – Add a layer of fine, dry sand (about 1-2 inches). Sand helps to absorb moisture, dries out the dust bath, and makes it easy for chickens to fluff their feathers.
Wood Ash – Add about 1-2 cups of wood ash for every 5 gallons of the dust bath mix. Wood ash helps with keeping the bath dry and also has natural pest-repelling properties.
Dried Herbs – A little something extra for the girls to enjoy 🙂
Here’s a summary of everything you need to care for baby chicks so they grow up happy and healthy.
Essential Supplies for Raising Baby Chicks
Brooder Box – A safe, enclosed space to keep chicks warm. A large plastic tote, stock tank, or wooden box lined with something easy to clean works well.
Heat Source – Chicks need a consistent heat source.
Best option: A heat plate brooder (safer, mimics a mother hen).
Other option: A heat lamp (use a red bulb to reduce stress and avoid overheating).
Temperature:
First week: 95°F
Lower by 5°F each week until they are fully feathered (~6 weeks).
Bedding – Pine shavings are best (not cedar—it’s toxic). Paper towels can be used for the first few days to help them learn to eat. Avoid slippery surfaces like newspaper.
Feeder & Chick Starter Feed –
Use chick starter feed (medicated or non-medicated depending on if you vaccinate for coccidiosis).
Keep feed available at all times.
Waterer & Fresh Water –
Use a shallow chick waterer to prevent drowning.
Add clean marbles or pebbles to the dish for the first week to keep them safe.
Change water daily to avoid contamination.
Electrolytes & Probiotics – Helpful for the first few days to prevent stress and dehydration.
Grit (optional, but helpful if giving treats) – Chicks don’t need grit if only eating starter ,feed, but they do if you give them anything else.
For a safe and effective brooder heater, a heat plate or a ceramic heat emitter are both excellent choices. Here’s a breakdown of options you can consider:
1. Brooder Heat Plate (Recommended for Safety and Efficiency)
A heat plate mimics the warmth of a mother hen, offering a more natural heat source without the fire risk of a heat lamp. They are typically adjustable to different heights as the chicks grow.
Brinsea EcoGlow 20 Brooder
Pros: Safe, energy-efficient, adjustable height, and perfect for small to medium-sized flocks (up to 20 chicks).
Cons: Higher initial cost, but a solid investment for multiple brooder setups over time.
Premier 1 Supplies Brooder Heat Plate
Pros: Adjustable, energy-efficient, and provides a natural heat source, similar to a mother hen.
Cons: Can only be used in a safe, enclosed brooder area (like your kiddie pool setup).
2. Ceramic Heat Emitter (If You Prefer a Non-Lighting Heat Source)
Ceramic heat emitters provide heat without light, which can help prevent chicks from getting overly stressed by bright lights.
Zoo Med ReptiTherm Ceramic Heat Emitter
Pros: Provides steady, non-light heat, easy to mount in a brooder, safe for long-term use.
Cons: Requires a heat lamp fixture and a thermostat to control the temperature.
3. Infrared Heat Lamp (If You Prefer a Light-Based Heat Source)
While heat lamps can work, they come with more safety risks, especially if knocked over or improperly secured. If you decide to go with one, consider a red or amber bulb to avoid startling the chicks with harsh light.
Mighty Nest LED Heat Lamp
Pros: Low wattage LED, safer than traditional incandescent lamps.
Cons: It may not heat as efficiently as heat plates, so ensure the temperature stays stable.
General Tips:
Thermometers: Use a thermometer to keep track of the temperature in the brooder. The ideal temperature starts at around 95°F in the first week, and you can decrease it by about 5°F each week until they’re fully feathered (around 6-8 weeks).
Safety: No matter the heat source, make sure everything is secure to prevent fire hazards. For heat lamps, use a clamp or guard to secure the lamp in place.
Given your cozy porch setup, I’d recommend going with a heat plate or ceramic emitter for the safest, most consistent heat without the worry of fires.
Daily Care for Baby Chicks
Temperature Check: If chicks huddle together under the heat source, they’re too cold. If they spread far away, it’s too hot. If they move around happily, it’s just right.
Food & Water: Make sure they always have fresh feed and water.
Bedding Maintenance: Spot-clean daily and do a full bedding change as needed.
Socialization: Handle them gently every day so they get used to you. Sitting quietly near the brooder and letting them approach your hand helps build trust.
Health Checks: Look for signs of pasty butt (dried poop blocking the vent). If you see it, gently clean with a warm, damp cloth to prevent health issues.
Hatchery & Farm Store Recommendations
If you decide to order chicks, here are some good sources that ship to Michigan:
1. Meyer Hatchery (Ohio)
One of the best hatcheries in the Midwest—great for cold-hardy breeds.
Offers small orders (even just 3 chicks), which is great for backyard flocks.
Has a wide selection, including Easter Eggers, Buff Orpingtons, and Plymouth Rocks.
4. Local Farm Stores (Tractor Supply, Rural King, Family Farm & Home)
Many stores start carrying chicks in late February or March.
Check breed availability early—they often sell out fast!
Store chicks may be a little more stressed from travel, so check for pasty butt when selecting.
Great Cold-Hardy Breeds for a Mixed Flock in Michigan
Since you want good layers that can handle Michigan winters, here are some great options that also tend to be friendly and easygoing:
Buff Orpingtons – Super sweet, great layers, and very cold-hardy.
Plymouth Rocks (Barred or White) – Reliable layers with fun personalities.
Easter Eggers – Lay blue, green, or even pinkish eggs—fun variety!
Australorps – Black, glossy birds with great egg production and gentle temperaments.
Speckled Sussex – Friendly, curious, and beautiful feather patterning.
Wyandottes (Silver or Gold Laced) – Cold-hardy, gorgeous, and great layers.
Brahmas – Big, fluffy birds with feathered feet; very cold-resistant.
All of these breeds should get along well, especially if they’re raised together from chicks. If you get them from your friend, you might get a surprise mix depending on what breeds her rooster has been mingling with!
ChatGPT said:
Got it! That means you’ll want sexed pullets (female chicks) to avoid ending up with an unexpected rooster. If you’re getting chicks from your friend, you might want to ask if she knows how to sex them or if she has older pullets available—otherwise, with straight-run chicks, there’s always a chance of getting a rooster or two.
If you do end up with a surprise roo, you’ll have some time before he starts crowing (usually around 12-16 weeks). But since you can’t keep one, it might be good to have a plan for rehoming, just in case!
Chick Nursery Setup
We have a cozy four-season porch. I was planning on keeping them in an a protected cat “play pen” and placing a 4’ wide “kiddie pool” inside into which I’ll place the bedding, brooder heater, food and water, etc.
ChatGPT said:
That sounds like an ideal setup! The four-season porch will give them a safe, warm space with some natural light, and the cat playpen will add extra protection. A kiddie pool is a great idea—it’s spacious and easy to clean.
A Few Tips for Your Setup:
Draft Protection: Since your porch might be a bit cooler than indoors, you might want to add a wind-block (like cardboard or foam board) around the sides of the playpen to keep drafts out.
Brooder Heater Placement: If using a heat plate, make sure it has room for chicks to move in and out freely. If using a heat lamp, clamp it securely and double-check the height to maintain the right temp.
Escape Prevention: As they grow, chicks will start testing their wings by about 2-3 weeks old. A mesh cover (or hardware cloth) over the top will keep them from flying out of the pool.
Easy Cleaning: Lining the bottom with puppy pads under the bedding can make cleanup easier. Spot-clean daily to keep things dry and reduce odor.
ChatGPT said:
That sounds like a perfect number—small enough to manage easily but still giving them a little flock dynamic! Plus, with a cozy brooder setup, they’ll stay warm and social without overcrowding.
Since you’ll only have 3-4, you might want to aim for docile, friendly breeds that will integrate well together. If you’re getting them from a hatchery or farm store, you can probably choose exactly which ones you want. But if you’re getting them from your friend, you might get some fun surprise genetics!
ChatGPT said:
That’s perfect! Handling them daily from a young age will make a huge difference in how friendly and social they become.
Tips for Raising Extra-Friendly Chicks:
Hand-Feeding Treats: Once they’re a few days old, try offering small treats like scrambled eggs or finely crushed mealworms from your hand—they’ll start associating you with good things!
Talking to Them: Chicks get used to voices quickly. Talking softly while feeding or cleaning helps them recognize you as safe.
Slow Movements: Move gently when reaching into the brooder so they don’t get startled.
Lap Time: Once they’re comfortable, let them perch on your hand or sit with them in your lap. They’ll start seeking you out for warmth and comfort.
Finger Perching: Encourage them to hop onto your finger/hand by placing it in front of them—this builds trust and makes future handling easier.
By the time they move to the coop, they’ll likely follow you around and come running when they see you!
There are a few key medications and vaccinations that are commonly recommended for chickens to ensure they stay strong and disease-free.
Essential Vaccinations for Chicks:
Marek’s Disease Vaccine
When: Given at the hatchery (usually day 1 for chicks) or within the first week if you’re raising them yourself.
Why: Marek’s Disease is a viral disease that affects chickens’ nervous systems. Vaccination is highly recommended to prevent it, as it’s easily spread.
Coccidiosis Vaccine (Coccivac)
When: Typically given at day 1 (or within the first few days after hatching).
Why: Coccidiosis is a common parasitic infection that can cause digestive distress. Vaccinating against it helps protect your chicks as their immune systems develop.
Newcastle Disease and Infectious Bronchitis
When: Some hatcheries provide a combination vaccine for these diseases. Otherwise, the vaccine is given later, around 6-8 weeks, if needed.
Why: These are viral respiratory diseases that can spread rapidly among flocks, causing high mortality in young birds.
Other Health Considerations:
Deworming:
When: Chickens are usually dewormed at around 8 weeks and then every 6 months or as needed, based on local parasite risks.
Why: Worms can cause weight loss, lethargy, and digestive issues in chickens. Common dewormers include Ivermectin or Fenbendazole, but always check with your vet for the best option for your area.
Feather Mites or Lice Treatment:
When: If you notice signs of feather mites or lice (like scratching or visible bugs), treat your chickens with a poultry dust or an insecticidal spray that’s safe for birds.
Why: External parasites can cause discomfort, skin irritation, and even anemia in severe cases. Regular monitoring and cleaning of the coop can help prevent infestations.
Basic Care Tips:
Clean Water: Make sure they always have access to fresh, clean water to help with digestion and overall health.
Good Nutrition: A high-quality chick starter feed helps them grow strong and builds immunity to infections. Once they’re older, you can switch to layer feed with added calcium.
Monitoring: Keep an eye out for signs of illness (lethargy, changes in egg production, diarrhea) and seek vet advice if needed.
You can order both vaccines and dewormers online, but it’s important to make sure you’re getting them from reputable sources that specialize in poultry care. Here are some places where you can find what you need:
For Vaccines:
Meyer Hatchery
They offer various vaccines like the Marek’s Disease vaccine and Coccivac, which can be shipped directly to you when you order chicks or separately.
Ideal Poultry
This site provides poultry vaccinations, including the Marek’s and Coccidia vaccines, for both chicks and adult chickens.
Tractor Supply Co.
You can find poultry vaccines in-store or online, including common ones like Marek’s and Newcastle Disease.
First State Veterinary Supply
Specializes in veterinary supplies and vaccines, including poultry products.
For Dewormers:
Farm & Fleet
They offer various dewormers, including Ivermectin and Fenbendazole, for poultry.
The Chicken Chick’s Online Store
You can find a range of poultry supplies, including natural deworming options.
Amazon
A wide selection of poultry dewormers, though be sure to check reviews and ensure the product is safe for chickens.
A Few Things to Keep in Mind:
Consult with a vet if you’re unsure which specific vaccines or dewormers your chickens need based on your region.
Shipping Restrictions: Some states may have restrictions on shipping live vaccines or certain medications, so it’s always a good idea to check local regulations.
Distance from the House: Ideally, place the coop 30–50 feet away from your house. Close enough for easy access (especially in bad weather) but far enough to manage odors, flies, and noise.
Drainage & Elevation: Choose a well-drained, slightly elevated spot to prevent water pooling and mud, which can lead to disease. If your yard is flat, consider adding a gravel base or raised foundation.
Sun & Shade: Chickens love sun, but they also need shade. If possible, position the coop where it gets morning sun and afternoon shade (near trees or a structure).
How to Keep Mice & Rodents Away
Secure Food Storage: Store feed in metal bins with tight lids—rodents can chew through plastic.
No Overnight Feed: Remove leftover food from the run at night.
Hardware Cloth, Not Chicken Wire: Mice and rats can squeeze through small gaps in chicken wire, so use 1/4-inch hardware cloth on vents and entry points.
Deep Clean Regularly: Rodents are attracted to spilled feed and droppings, so sweep and clean often.
Trap, Don’t Poison: If you have a rodent issue, use traps rather than poison, which could harm your chickens.
Essential Elements for a Good Coop
Size & Space:
4 sq ft per bird inside the coop (bigger is better).
10 sq ft per bird in the run if they won’t free-range.
Ventilation:
Proper airflow prevents ammonia buildup and keeps moisture down.
Install vents near the roof (covered with hardware cloth).
Predator-Proofing:
Buried hardware cloth apron (12”–18” outward) to stop digging predators.
Secure latches (raccoons can open simple latches!).
Locking doors at night—even if you have an enclosed run.
Nesting Boxes:
1 box per 3–4 hens, each about 12”x12”x12”.
Keep them off the ground and lined with soft bedding.
Perches/Roosts:
Chickens sleep on perches, so provide 8–12” of space per bird.
Use 2”x4” boards (wide side up)—better for their feet in winter.
Dust Bath Area:
Chickens need dust baths to stay clean and pest-free.
A dry, sandy area with diatomaceous earth or wood ash helps.
Weather Protection:
Shade in summer, windbreaks in winter.
Covered run to keep them dry.
Would you be building your own coop or getting a pre-made one? And are you planning to free-range them or keep them in a run?
Since you have a lot of predators around, security is going to be key. Here are some extra tips to keep your flock safe:
Predator-Proofing Your Coop & Run
Hardware Cloth Everywhere
Use 1/4-inch hardware cloth instead of chicken wire (which raccoons and weasels can rip through).
Cover all windows, vents, and gaps bigger than ½ inch with hardware cloth.
Dig-Proof Skirt
Bury hardware cloth at least 12-18 inches deep around the perimeter OR
Lay an apron of hardware cloth outward 12-24 inches along the ground to stop digging predators like foxes and coyotes.
Locking Doors & Latches
Use carabiners or predator-proof latches (raccoons can open simple slide latches).
Make sure all coop doors, egg box lids, and access points are securely latched at night.
Automatic Coop Door (Optional but Worth It!)
A solar or battery-powered automatic door can be a lifesaver—closing at dusk and opening at dawn.
Covered Run
A fully enclosed run with hardware cloth on top prevents hawks, owls, and climbing predators from getting in.
If using netting, choose strong welded-wire netting instead of soft poultry netting.
No Gaps or Weak Spots
Reinforce gaps at corners, where walls meet the roof, and under doors—weasels can squeeze through a hole the size of a quarter!
Winter & Cold Weather Prep
Since you’re in a wooded area, your winters may get cold. Chickens can handle the cold well, but they need:
Draft-free but ventilated coop (prevents frostbite from moisture buildup).
2×4 roosts (wide side up) so their toes don’t curl under and freeze.
Deep bedding (straw, pine shavings) for insulation.
Heated waterer so their water doesn’t freeze.
Other Considerations
Electric fencing around the run can deter larger predators like bears, coyotes, and dogs.
Motion sensor lights or predator deterrent lights (red blinking “night eyes” can scare off raccoons and foxes).
Secure feed storage (wildlife will be attracted to spilled feed).
It sounds like your setup will be super safe and spacious! Have you thought about what breeds you want? Some do better in colder weather, some are more predator-savvy, and some are just friendlier.
ChatGPT said:
Great question! Since you’re in Grand Rapids, MI, you’ll want cold-hardy breeds that can handle snowy winters and occasional hot summers. You’ll also want breeds that are predator-savvy since you’re in the woods. Here are some great options for your climate and setting:
Best Cold-Hardy, Predator-Savvy Chicken Breeds
Plymouth Rock (Barred Rock) 🖤⚪
Hardy in cold & heat, lays 250+ brown eggs/year
Smart, predator-aware, and friendly
Dual-purpose (good for eggs & meat)
Australorp (Black Australorp) 🖤
Super cold-hardy, lays 250-300 large brown eggs/year
Calm, docile, and easy to handle
Black feathers help absorb warmth in winter
Wyandotte (Silver or Gold Laced) 🖤🟡⚪
Very cold-hardy with a rose comb (less prone to frostbite)
Lays 200-250 brown eggs/year
Independent, predator-aware, and good foragers
Orpington (Buff Orpington) 🟡
Cold-hardy due to fluffy feathers, lays 200-280 brown eggs/year
Very gentle and affectionate (great if you want friendly birds)
A bit less predator-savvy, so they need a secure run
Rhode Island Red ❤️
Tough, predator-savvy, lays 250-300 brown eggs/year
Hardy in all weather, strong forager
Can be a little feisty but great for a mixed flock
Dominique ⚫⚪
Similar to Barred Rocks but with a rose comb (better for frostbite prevention)
Great foragers, very predator-aware
Lays 230-270 brown eggs/year
Easter Egger 🥚 (Colorful Egg Layers!)
Super hardy, lays 200-250 blue/green eggs per year
Friendly and curious, good for beginners
Predator-aware and good at hiding
Breeds to Avoid for Your Area
🚫 Leghorns – Great layers but have big combs that get frostbite easily. 🚫 Silkies – Too small and fluffy; they don’t handle cold or predators well. 🚫 Polish – Their head crests block vision, making them easy predator targets.
Would you like a mix of breeds or are you leaning toward one type? If you want variety, a mix of Wyandottes, Barred Rocks, and Easter Eggers would give you a beautiful, diverse flock with great egg production!
That actually might work out well! Having the coop closer to the house has some advantages, especially in the winter. It makes it easier to check on the chickens, bring water (so it doesn’t freeze as quickly), and keep an eye out for predators.
As long as you manage potential odor, flies, and rodents, a close coop can be a great setup. A few things to consider:
Managing a Coop Close to the House
✔ Ventilation & Drainage – Since your yard is hilly, make sure rainwater drains away from the coop (so you don’t get mud or runoff near your house). ✔ Deep Litter Method – Using deep bedding (pine shavings, straw, or sand) can help keep odors down. Stirring it up regularly also helps. ✔ Compost Nearby? – If you compost, chicken manure makes fantastic fertilizer. You could set up a compost bin downhill from the coop so water runoff carries nutrients away from the house. ✔ Rodent Prevention – Keep feed in metal bins and collect food scraps before nightfall to avoid attracting mice. ✔ Sound & Smell – Chickens aren’t super loud (except for roosters), but in summer, warm air can carry coop smells toward the house. Good ventilation and cleaning will help prevent that.
Bonus of a Close Coop
Easy egg collection – No trekking through deep snow!
Faster predator response – If something is lurking, you’ll hear it.
Convenient electricity access – If you ever need a heated waterer or automatic door, you won’t have to run long extension cords.
Since you have hills, does the flat spot get a lot of wind? If so, a windbreak (fencing, shrubs, or positioning the coop near a structure) could help keep drafts down in the winter.
Would you be building the coop on the ground or slightly raised? A raised coop might help with drainage and rodent control in your case.
ChatGPT said:
That sounds like an excellent location! Having the coop on the east side of the house gives your chickens protection from the harshest winter winds while still letting in morning sun, which helps keep the coop warm in winter. Plus, if it’s shaded from intense afternoon sun, your birds will be much more comfortable in the summer.
Why a Raised Coop is a Great Choice
✔ Better Drainage – Keeps the floor dry, prevents flooding, and reduces mud issues. ✔ Rodent & Predator Protection – Harder for mice, rats, and digging predators (like foxes) to get in. ✔ Extra Shelter – The space under the coop gives the chickens shade in summer and a dry spot when it rains.
Final Considerations for Placement & Design
📏 Distance from House – Close enough for easy access, but if possible, leave at least 10-15 feet of space to avoid smells drifting into open windows. 🚪 Door Positioning – Face the coop door/run entrance south or southeast for good light and warmth. 💨 Ventilation – Since it’s protected from the west wind, make sure the coop has upper vents (like gable vents or soffit vents) to let moisture escape. Frostbite risk goes up if humid air gets trapped inside. 🐓 Run Placement – If predators are a big concern, consider a fully enclosed walk-in run with a secure roof (hardware cloth or metal roofing).
It sounds like you’ve picked a really smart setup—great protection from the elements and easy access for daily care. Are you planning to collect eggs from an outside access hatch, or will you enter the coop to gather them?
ChatGPT said:
Perfect! An outside access hatch for egg collection will make things so much easier—you won’t have to step inside the coop every day, and in bad weather, you’ll be grateful for the convenience!
Best Design Tips for Nesting Boxes with an Exterior Hatch
✔ Height Placement:
Mount 12-18 inches off the floor so chickens don’t roost inside them.
If the coop is raised, make sure the hatch is at a comfortable height for you to access.
✔ Weatherproofing the Hatch:
Install a sloped, overhanging lid to prevent rain or snow from leaking in.
Use strong hinges and a secure latch (raccoons are sneaky little burglars).
Rubber or foam weather stripping can help seal gaps and keep out drafts.
✔ Size & Nesting Material:
Standard size: 12”x12”x12” per box.
Bedding: Pine shavings, straw, or nesting pads for comfort.
Plan for 1 box per 3-4 hens (but they’ll probably all fight over the same one anyway!).
✔ Hinged or Drop-Down Hatch?
A top-hinged lid (lifting up) is easiest for collecting eggs.
A drop-down front panel can also work but might let in rain if not well-sealed.
Since you’re raising the coop, you could also design a roll-out egg collection system, where eggs gently roll forward into a collection tray outside the coop. This keeps eggs clean and unbroken—but it’s totally optional!
Your coop is shaping up to be extremely well thought-out. Do you have any specific features you want to include, like an automatic door, roosting ladder, or extra insulation for winter?
1. Automatic Coop Door (Sunlight Triggered)
✅ Best Type for Your Setup:
Light-Sensitive (Dawn/Dusk Sensor) – Opens at sunrise and closes at sunset automatically.
Battery or Solar-Powered – Since your coop is near the house, you could also run power if needed, but solar keeps it self-sufficient.
✅ Key Features to Look For:
Safety Mechanism – A door with a slow-close feature prevents trapping a chicken.
Strong Materials – Aluminum or heavy-duty plastic doors prevent raccoons or foxes from lifting them.
Manual Override – Just in case you need to open or close it yourself.
💡 Bonus Tip: If predators are a major concern, consider adding a secondary locking mechanism at night (especially against raccoons, which can figure out some doors!).
2. Rain Barrel Water Collection for the Coop
A rain barrel system is a fantastic way to keep your flock hydrated without hauling water all the time! Since your greenhouse also lacks water access, you could expand the system later to supply both areas.
✅ Setting It Up:
Gutter System – If your coop has a slanted roof, install a small gutter and downspout to collect rainwater into a barrel.
Food-Grade Barrel – Look for a 55-gallon BPA-free plastic barrel (blue barrels work well).
Mosquito & Algae Prevention – Use a fine mesh screen over the intake to keep out debris and bugs.
✅ Winter Considerations:
Install a freeze-proof valve or disconnect the system in winter to prevent bursting.
If you want year-round use, consider burying a small holding tank below the frost line and running a heated line to the coop.
✅ Getting the Water to the Chickens:
Use poultry nipple drinkers or a small gravity-fed waterer attached to the barrel.
Raise the barrel on cinder blocks so water can flow downward easily.
Add a low-watt stock tank heater if you want to prevent freezing in winter.
This Setup Will Save You a Ton of Time!
With an auto door and rain barrel, your chickens will be safer, happier, and require less daily work.
Are you planning to build the coop roof from wood & shingles or use metal roofing? Metal roofing sheds water well, making rain collection even easier.
How to Set Up a Perfect Dust Bath
✅ Ideal Location:
Dry, well-drained area – Needs to stay dry year-round, so under a covered section of the run or inside the coop (if large enough) works well.
Sunny spot in winter, shady spot in summer – If possible, position it where it gets morning sun but afternoon shade to keep it comfy.
✅ Container Options:
Dig a shallow pit (3-6 inches deep)
Use a large, low-sided tub (like a half-barrel, old tire, or wooden box)
Frame out a 2×2 or 3×3 foot square with wood or bricks to keep it tidy
✅ Best Dust Bath Mix:
Dry, fine dirt or sand – Base material, easy to dig into.
Diatomaceous earth (DE) – Food-grade only! Destroys pests but should be mixed in lightly (too much can be drying).
Dried herbs (optional) – Chickens love lavender, oregano, or rosemary for extra pest control.
Winter Dust Bathing
If you get deep snow, chickens can’t dust bathe outside. Consider putting a dust bath inside the coop or under the covered run so they can still clean themselves.
Final Tip: Chickens Will Use It… A Lot
Once you set it up, expect them to flop, wiggle, kick, and roll around in it like lunatics—it’s completely normal and actually one of the funniest things to watch!
Would you like some winter boredom-buster ideas too? Chickens can get stir-crazy in deep snow!
1. Hanging Veggie Treats
How to set it up: Hang cabbage, carrots, or apples from the ceiling of the run or inside the coop. This will give your chickens something to peck at and provide entertainment as they figure out how to get to the treats.
Bonus: You can hang treats at varying heights, encouraging them to jump and reach.
2. Foraging Boxes
How to set it up: Fill a shallow box or bin with dried leaves, hay, or straw and bury some scratch grains, sunflower seeds, or dried mealworms inside. Chickens will happily scratch through it for their treats.
Bonus: You can rotate the contents to keep it fresh and exciting for them. Adding some pine shavings or dried herbs for variety also works great.
3. Ice Block Treats
How to set it up: Freeze treats like berries, grains, or vegetables in an ice block. Simply add the treats to a container, pour water over them, and freeze. When it’s time to feed them, you can hang the ice block or place it on the ground for them to peck at.
Bonus: This works especially well on warm winter days when they’ll enjoy the cold treat!
4. Scrambled Eggs or Warm Oats
How to set it up: On extra-cold days, serve up some scrambled eggs (chickens love them!) or warm oats. They’ll love the warmth and the protein.
Bonus: Scrambled eggs also have the added benefit of being a natural dewormer!
5. Roosting Bar Entertainment
How to set it up: If you have multiple levels of roosting bars in the coop, your chickens will enjoy moving between them. You can also add natural branches or logs for them to climb on.
Bonus: Consider attaching a mirror to the side of the coop. Chickens will enjoy socializing with their “reflections.”
6. DIY Chicken Toys
How to set it up: You can make simple hanging toys like pinecones rolled in peanut butter and then sprinkled with seeds. Chickens love pecking at them, and it will keep their beaks busy!
Bonus: You can also make paper-wrapped treats filled with dried herbs for scratching and pecking.
7. Tractor or Treadmill
How to set it up: If your run is big enough, create a chicken tractor (a movable pen). This way, your chickens can enjoy fresh ground by moving them from one section of the yard to another.
Bonus: Alternatively, a small treadmill or wheel could provide indoor exercise (though this might take a little while for them to get the hang of it!).
8. Hay or Straw Bale
How to set it up: Provide a hay bale or straw bale for your chickens to hop on, scratch, and investigate. It adds height variation and something fun to jump on, which they’ll love.
Bonus: You can hide some treats inside for them to peck at!
Pro Tip: Rotate your boredom busters! Chickens love novelty, so changing up the toys or treats you provide every few days will keep things interesting.
Winter chicken care can be a lot of fun with a few creative ideas! Do you have a covered run area that they can enjoy in the snow, or will they mostly be inside during the worst weather?
How Often to Introduce New Birds
A good rule of thumb is to add new hens every 1-2 years to maintain a balanced flock. Introducing new chickens too quickly can lead to stress and pecking among the older hens, so spacing them out gives everyone time to adjust.
Suggested Timing for Adding New Birds
Year 1: Start with a small group (3-4 hens) to build your foundation flock.
Year 2-3: Add another small group (3-4 hens) as your first batch starts to slow down in egg production.
Year 4: Introduce a new group again to replace hens that have retired from laying, or when the older hens start to show their age.
Keep adding hens every 1-2 years, depending on how your flock’s egg production declines and your space limitations.
Space Them Out: Tips for Smooth Integration
Space is important when integrating new chickens into your flock, and here are a few ways to handle it:
1. Separate Quarantine Area
Why: Before introducing new birds, keep them in a quarantine area for 2-3 weeks to ensure they’re healthy and not carrying any diseases or parasites.
How: This should be completely separate from your existing chickens to avoid any risk. You can use a small pen inside the run or a completely different section of the coop.
2. Slow Introduction Process
How to do it: After quarantine, introduce new birds gradually:
First Step: Let them see each other through a fence or wire for a week or two. This allows them to get used to each other without direct contact.
Second Step: Start letting them mingle during supervised time, keeping an eye on them.
Third Step: If the integration goes smoothly, let them share the run, but keep an eye out for any bullying or pecking.
Tip: Having plenty of space, food, water, and hiding spots helps reduce tension and allows the hens to spread out if needed.
3. Age Group Balance
When adding new birds, aim to keep the new flock members around the same age range to avoid dominance issues. For example, adding 6-month-old birds to a flock of 3-year-olds could cause more bullying or stress since the older hens will likely be more dominant.
4. Space in the Coop/Run
For a smooth transition, make sure you have enough space in the coop and run for everyone. A minimum of 4 square feet per chicken in the coop and 10 square feet per chicken in the run is a good starting point. The more room, the easier it will be for your flock to get along.
Signs It’s Time to Add More Birds
Egg production drops significantly (especially after 3 years of age).
You notice your hens are bored, lonely, or showing signs of stress (feathers missing, pecking, etc.).
You’re ready to extend your egg supply or have more hens for other reasons.
By spacing out new additions and making the introduction process gradual, your chickens will be much more likely to adjust without stress. You’ll also keep your egg production more consistent over time.
Is there a particular breed or number of hens you plan to start with? That’ll help refine your flock-building plan a little further.
RAMPS
The optimum angle for a chicken ramp depends on the texture of the ramp and the breed of chickens you have, but a good rule of thumb is:
Ideal Ramp Angle
30-45 degrees → Best range for most chickens. Provides an easy climb without being too steep.
45-50 degrees → Can work if the ramp has deep, wide cleats for traction, but might be tough for heavier breeds.
Over 50 degrees → Too steep for most chickens unless they are very agile (like bantams).
Ramp Design Tips
Width: At least 8-12 inches wide for comfort.
Cleats/Rungs: Place every 3-5 inches apart to prevent slipping.
Surface: Use non-slip material (wood with a rough texture, rubber grip, or hardware cloth for extra traction).
If your coop is raised higher than 24 inches, a shallower ramp (closer to 30 degrees) is better. If space is limited, you can use a wider ramp with more cleats at a steeper angle.
Are you planning to build a straight ramp, or would you consider a staggered ladder style?
Compared to other breeds, they are rather simple to care for and are suitable for homesteading.
Should you decide to raise Spanish goats after weighing the pros and cons, here are some tips on how to raise them.
Provide Enclosure or Fence
Spanish goats need fences and shelter against snow, rain, high heat, and wind like other animals, despite being hardy.
So, your fence must be sturdy to withstand any damage the goats may do. And because this species can jump so high, the wall should be at least 4 to 5 feet.
Additionally, it should be secure enough so no one can push it down.
These goats would try anything to escape a confined space, especially if the food on the other side attracts them.
To keep them as safe as possible, secure the fence firmly in the ground and space the posts no more than 8 feet apart.
When building your fence, you can use woven wire, welded wire, or cattle panels as the material of your choice.
To stop them from bending or jumping over the fence, you can run a line of electric wire through the enclosure. The house must, however, be capable of keeping the goat within and predators outside.
Give them Company
Whether you raise Spanish goats for pet or income purposes, it’s always important to have a company. Why?
They need someone to play with them to relieve their stress, and they won’t feel lonely. If you raise them for commercial purposes, they definitely need a partner to reproduce.
Proper Bedding
The bedding for your pet should be soft when it walks or lays down and capable of absorbing pee and excrement.
Because they are less dusty and far more comfortable than wood pellets, use wood shavings or wheat straws.
Enough Lighting
These animals favor well-lit environments. The pens should have openings, like windows, to provide adequate lighting and ventilation.
Maintain Regular Check-up from the Vet
It’s always important to consult your vet regularly to ensure they are healthy and help them recover if there are health issues.
Proper Diet for Spanish Goats
Even though these goats can endure poor pastures, you should give them high-quality goat food and access to clean, fresh water.
Because Spanish goats produce less milk than other goat breeds, they don’t need as much water while lactating.
However, they do require sufficient feeds and nutrients for the infants. To avoid pregnancy toxemia, don’t overfeed Spanish goats when they are pregnant.
Since they’reherbivores, they will happily eat weeds, bark, shrubs, and herbs. To reach leaves, they could also climb trees.
Providing them with independence will enable them to search for grass while getting exercise.
Their unique ability is that they can breed even if it’s not their season yet. And they are hardy because they can tolerate extreme weather, like hot temperatures.
You only need to provide sufficient clean water to keep them hydrated.
What type of breed is a Spanish goat?
They are part of a landrace breed. Though they are not part of the tallest goat breed, they are one of the best goats for meat production. And it’s been their purpose for over many decades.
How often do Spanish goats breed?
They can breed all year round. So, they can produce kids three times within two years.
And they can complete their reproduction cycle within 12 to 36 hours and their estrous cycle between 18 to 24 days.
Do female Spanish goats have horns?
Yes, just like the male goats, the females also have horns. The only difference is the size of the horns and their position.
For example, their male goats usually have large twisted horns, while females do not.
How long are Spanish goats pregnant?
These great Spanish goats’ gestation period is 155 days after fertilization. So they may breed again before the year ends.
Is the Spanish goat breed hardy?
Yes, they are hardy and can survive and thrive in harsh conditions.
For cashmere and meat production, purebred Spanish goats have been crossed with imported goat breeds.
Spanish Goats: Final Thoughts
Spanish goats are suitable for meat production and breeding because they can breed all year round. They can also survive extreme weather conditions and are excellent mothers to kids.
They’re also low maintenance and come in various beautiful colors.
However, although they can produce milk, it may not be enough to support your family’s dairy needs and establish a small business.
Introduction: Keeping an African dwarf frog in captivity can be a rewarding experience, especially when you see your aquatic companion thriving and happy. In this guide, we’ll explore the key indicators that your African dwarf frog is content and in good health.
1. Swimming Actively: African dwarf frogs are known for their constant activity in the water. Observing your frog swimming actively is a clear sign of happiness. These fully aquatic creatures seldom stay idle and exhibit playful behaviors, such as burbling, which adds to the joy of owning them.
2. Surface Breathing and Jumping: Healthy and happy African dwarf frogs will consistently come up to the surface to breathe, showcasing their robust respiratory behavior. Additionally, their occasional attempts to jump out of the water, especially during feeding, reflect a content and lively demeanor.
3. Bottom Dwellers’ Behavior: While these frogs are active swimmers, they often spend a significant amount of time at the bottom of the tank. This behavior is perfectly normal and indicates a happy dwarf frog. However, floating at the top may be a sign of distress or illness.
4. Reaction to Handling: A content African dwarf frog will instinctively swim away when approached or handled. This behavior is a sign of well-being. Conversely, a stressed or unwell frog may not exhibit the same swift reaction.
5. Clear Eyes and Smooth Skin: Examining your frog’s eyes and skin is crucial. Clear eyes and smooth, unharmed skin are indicators of a happy and healthy African dwarf frog. Any discoloration or fuzzy patches may signal an underlying issue.
6. Quick Food Consumption: A voracious appetite is a positive sign of a happy African dwarf frog. These frogs typically finish their food quickly. If your frog shows a lack of interest in eating or takes longer to consume its meals, it could be a sign of unhappiness or illness.
7. Shedding Skin in One Piece: Regular shedding is a natural part of an African dwarf frog’s growth. If your frog sheds its skin in one piece, it is a good indication of overall well-being. Multiple pieces of shed skin may suggest underlying health issues.
Source: AcurioPets
8. Interaction with Tank Mates and Owners: African dwarf frogs are social creatures. Interacting positively with tank mates and responding to the owner’s gestures are signs of a happy frog. Lack of interaction or avoidance behaviors may indicate stress.
9. Hiding Behavior: Frequent hiding during the day is a normal and instinctual behavior for African dwarf frogs. If your frog retreats to hiding spots, it suggests a healthy adaptation to its environment.
10. Humming or Buzzing: The buzzing sound produced by your African dwarf frog is a notable sign of happiness. This behavior, often mistaken for singing, is more pronounced during mating periods, reflecting an active and content state.
Source: Charlie_Goji
Ways to Ensure Happiness:
To maintain a happy and healthy African dwarf frog, consider the following:
Provide Adequate Space: Ensure your frog has a spacious environment.
Use Air Bubbles: Install an air stone and pump for added enrichment.
Ensure Proper Lighting: Establish a lighting system to mimic day and night cycles.
Maintain Warmth: Use a tank heater to keep the environment warm.
Offer Weekly Treats: Treat your frog with brine shrimp, bloodworms, or other favorites.
Avoid Strong Water Currents: Ensure the tank’s filtration system doesn’t create stress-inducing water currents.
Include Decor Items: Decorate the tank with items that provide hiding spots and entertainment.
Conclusion: By understanding and observing these signs, along with providing proper care and attention, you can ensure a happy and thriving life for your African dwarf frog. Remember, a joyful frog is a healthy frog.
African dwarf frogs were first discovered in rivers, streams, puddles, and shallow ponds in various regions throughout Central Africa in the late 19th century. They are members of the Hymenochirus genus of aquatic frog species and are easily confused in appearance with the other frog species in their group, the African clawed frogs. While these fully aquatic amphibians both belong to the Pipidae family and may appear to look similar, they do have different physical and behavioral traits, which are important for beginner African dwarf frog owners to identify prior to adoption.
Identifying Male and Female African Dwarf Frogs
There are several distinct features that make it easy to identify male and female African dwarf frogs. Male African dwarf frogs are typically smaller in size as they mature, develop small glands behind their front legs called post-axillary subdermal glands, have a small tail, and “buzz” quite loud when they are excited or trying to attract their mates. Females are typically larger in size with pear-shape bodies as they mature, develop longer tails, and aren’t known to buzz. When the males buzz, it is typically at night when they are most active. African dwarf frogs are nocturnal. In the wild, they hunt for food at night and rest during the day.
Choosing The Right Aquarium For Your African Dwarf Frog
The size of your aquarium will depend on how many African dwarf frogs you would like to raise. Since they are very small frogs and only grow to a maximum of 3 inches, a 2.5-gallon aquarium is recommended for housing one African dwarf frog. A 5-gallon aquarium is recommended for housing two, and a 10- to 20-gallon aquarium is recommended for more than two. Although African dwarf frogs are fully aquatic, they have lungs and need to rise to the surface of the water frequently for air. Their webbed feet make it difficult for them to swim in deep water. Avoid placing them in aquariums that are more than 12 inches deep. If their aquarium is too deep, they will struggle to reach the top for air and drown.
Setting Up Your African Dwarf Frog Aquarium
As with all herps, maintaining a proper living environment for your African dwarf frog is key to preventing stress, disease and a shortened life. The following tips for properly setting up and maintaining their living space are highly recommended:
Maintain water temperatures between 72-78 degrees Fahrenheit. The water should be similar temperatures to the African dwarf frog’s native habitat in Africa. A submersible heater and a digital thermometer are essential for maintaining these temperatures.
Maintain PH levels between 6.5 – 7.8. These levels can be monitored regularly using PH testing kits.
Use large aquarium gravel to cover the bottom of the tank. Gravel comes in different sizes and colors. If the grains are too small, the frogs can accidentally consume it and have a difficult time digesting it. This could lead to impaction and can be fatal. Sand is another option for substrate. It is recommended that a substrate be used in any aquarium, but some African dwarf frog keepers opt out of using substrate in fear of their frogs consuming it. It is a personal choice, but substrates make it easier to secure live and artificial plant decorations in the aquarium.
Always secure the aquarium with a lid. African dwarf frogs spend their whole lives underwater and are not capable of surviving on dry land for more than 15-20 minutes. If they escape, their skin will dry out and they will not survive. Be mindful that African dwarf frogs require oxygen at the water’s surface, so it is best to use a screen lid. If you use a solid lid, make sure it remains open a crack so that your frog can access air to breathe.
Avoid the use of large filters. African dwarf frogs are very sensitive to noise and they don’t have ears. They use the lateral lines on their bodies to sense vibrations. Large filters can induce stress and sickness. These frogs also prefer motionless water, so make sure the filters don’t cause strong water currents in the aquarium. An under-gravel filter is recommended. Always check with an aquarium specialist online or in store if you are uncertain. If the aquarium is small and maintained regularly, African dwarf frogs can do just fine without one.
Provide 10-12 hours of aquarium lighting daily. African dwarf frogs are nocturnal and require a regular day and night cycle. They don’t need UVB lighting like many reptile and amphibian species do. A basic LED hood light is sufficient. Avoid placing the aquarium in a room without windows. Rooms with natural sunlight will work just fine too.
Use filtered water in the aquarium. Raw water contains harmful chemicals such as chloramine and fluoride that can be toxic to all aquatic species. If you use tap water, be sure to treat it with anti-bacterial supplements and water conditioners prior to placing the African dwarf frog back in. Avoid the use of soap to clean the aquariums. Soap can leave residue in the aquarium and make the frogs sick.
Perform water changes bi-weekly. It is best to change at least 10-25% of the water every 2-4 weeks. If a filter is not being used, then it is best to change the water at least once a week. Frogs shed and can be messy eaters. Avoid performing full water changes. This could cause stress and fatally shock African dwarf frogs.
Avoid aquarium décor that is sharp and toxic. African dwarf frogs are hunted in the wild and require places where they can hide out in such as caves or logs. African dwarf frogs do well with artificial or real plants, but plants with sharp edges can tear at the frog’s skin. Some wood décor can contain harmful toxins that increase PH levels in the water. Always check with an aquatic specialist online or in store if you’re uncertain about which decorations to use.
Foods To Feed Your African Dwarf Frog
An African dwarf frog’s diet should contain a high protein and well-balanced selection of food consisting of specialized aquatic frog sinking pellets, freeze dried bloodworms, frozen brine shrimp, daphnia, and live blackworms. African dwarf frogs have poor vision and rely on their sense of smell and touch to eat. They have no tongues or teeth to help them chew, so the food that they consume should be cut up in small pieces and fed to them in small portions.
