If the area already holds moisture, addressing drainage first will save you a ton of hassle later.
✅ Slightly Elevate the Coop & Run
If possible, raise the entire coop and run by adding a gravel base (4-6 inches deep).
This helps water drain away instead of pooling inside the run.
✅ Dig a French Drain (For Persistent Wet Areas)
If water naturally collects, dig a shallow trench filled with gravel and a perforated pipe to redirect water away from the run.
Cover it with more gravel or soil to blend in.
✅ Add a Sand or Gravel Layer Under the Run
Before adding bedding, lay down 2-4 inches of coarse sand or pea gravel to help with drainage.
🐔 2. Use the Right Bedding for Dry Ground
The best moisture-wicking bedding depends on your climate and preference.
✅ Coarse Sand (Best Overall for Drainage & Cleanliness)
Doesn’t hold moisture like dirt or straw.
Drains quickly and is easy to clean with a rake.
Chickens love to dust bathe in it.
✅ Gravel Base + Organic Bedding (For Heavier Rains)
1-2 inches of gravel under bedding helps prevent mud.
On top, use pine shavings, chopped straw, or hemp bedding (all dry quickly).
✅ Deep Litter Method (For Cold or Wet Climates)
Instead of frequent cleaning, let bedding build up over time (6-12 inches deep).
Microbial action breaks down waste and generates warmth.
Works best with pine shavings, straw, or hemp bedding.
🐔 3. Cover & Divert Water from the Run
Even with shade, rain can make things muddy unless you manage it well.
✅ Waterproof Roofing or Tarp
If the run has a cover, make sure it’s pitched so rain runs off.
Use corrugated plastic or metal roofing for the best long-term protection.
✅ Gutters & Rain Barrels
If the coop has a roof, add a gutter system to catch rainwater.
Direct it away from the run or collect it for watering plants.
✅ Extend the Roof Beyond the Run Edges
Overhangs prevent rain from dripping inside the run and soaking the ground.
🐔 4. Keep Water Sources From Creating Mud
Sometimes, the waterer itself is the problem!
✅ Use Nipple or Cup Waterers Instead of Open Bowls
This prevents water from spilling and making a muddy mess.
Mount it off the ground to avoid splashing.
✅ Place Waterers on a Raised Platform
Use bricks, pavers, or a wooden pallet to keep them off the wet ground.
✅ Create a “Dry Zone” With Gravel or Sand
Around the waterer, place a small ring of sand, gravel, or stone pavers to absorb spills.
🐔 5. Rotate & Aerate the Run to Keep It Fresh
If your run is fixed, moisture buildup is inevitable—so maintenance is key.
✅ Rake & Turn the Bedding Weekly
Stirring bedding helps it dry faster and prevents compaction.
✅ Move the Run Occasionally (If Possible)
If you can, let an area rest while another section is used.
✅ Add Ventilation to the Coop & Run
Even in shade, extra airflow will help bedding dry faster.
🐔 What’s the Best Setup for Your Space?
If your run is completely fixed, I’d recommend: ✅ A slightly raised, well-drained gravel base ✅ Coarse sand + deep litter bedding ✅ A sloped roof with gutters to redirect rain ✅ A raised waterer to prevent spills
Layering the Ground in the Main Run:
Pea Gravel (Base Layer)
Depth: 2-4 inches
This acts as the drainage layer. The gravel allows any excess moisture to flow through and keeps the ground from getting waterlogged.
It also helps elevate the bedding, so your chickens aren’t walking directly on damp soil.
Coarse Sand (Middle Layer)
Depth: 2-4 inches
Sand is excellent for drainage and will help the bedding dry out more quickly, especially in wet or rainy conditions. It also helps keep the ground from becoming muddy.
Chickens love to dust bathe in sand, so it’s a great addition for both moisture control and chicken enrichment.
Pine Shavings (Top Layer)
Depth: 2-4 inches (adjust based on how often you clean)
Pine shavings absorb moisture and odors, and they’re soft for your chickens’ feet.
This layer will also serve as a comfortable bedding for your chickens, keeping them dry and cozy.
Why This Works:
Pea gravel creates good drainage so moisture doesn’t build up.
Sand wicks away moisture and makes the area more comfortable for chickens to scratch and dust bathe in.
Pine shavings soak up any remaining moisture, while also providing bedding for comfort and hygiene.
This should keep things dry, clean, and comfortable the girls, even during rainy seasons.
🌟 Weekly Maintenance:
Rake the Bedding
Fluff up the pine shavings and sand to help them dry out and aerate the bedding.
This will also help prevent it from becoming compacted and allow moisture to escape.
Check for Wet Spots
If any areas seem to be holding water, you can add more gravel or sand to improve drainage in those spots.
Make sure there are no puddles forming, as standing water can lead to bacteria or mold growth.
Clean Out the Waterers
If you’re using open water bowls, rinse them weekly to prevent algae growth and keep them clean.
Nipple or cup waterers are a great option to reduce spills and prevent dampness.
🌟 Monthly Maintenance:
Turn Over the Bedding
Stir up the bedding in the run to keep it from becoming too compacted.
This helps air circulate, which speeds up the drying process and keeps the area fresher.
Top Off Bedding Layers
If the bedding has settled, add a fresh layer of pine shavings to ensure your chickens have a clean, soft surface to walk on.
Check for Gaps in the Hardware Cloth
Inspect the run’s hardware cloth for any weak spots or potential openings that could allow predators to squeeze through.
Check the Roof/Canopy
If your run has a tarp or roof, make sure it’s still intact and that no rainwater is pooling on top.
🌟 Seasonal Maintenance:
Spring Cleaning (After Winter)
This is a great time to do a more thorough cleaning of the entire run and coop.
Deep clean the floor by removing old bedding and replenishing with fresh material.
Scrub the waterers and feeders, and inspect the coop for any wear and tear from the weather.
Winter Prep
Before cold weather hits, make sure your run’s roof is waterproof and all the bedding layers are in good shape.
You may want to add more insulation or move the waterer to an area that’s more protected from freezing.
🌟 Occasional Maintenance:
Add More Gravel or Sand
If you notice any spots that have become too soggy, add gravel or sand to improve drainage and help dry out the ground.
Gravel can be added underneath the sand layer if needed, or you can top off the sand layer to keep it dry and clean.
Check for Pest Activity
If you’re in a humid area, check the bedding for signs of mold or fungus.
If you notice pests or smell mildew, you may need to replace some of the bedding and improve ventilation.
🌟 Bonus Tips:
Rotating or Moving Your Run: If you’re able to move the run occasionally, it can help prevent wear on the ground and provide your girls with fresh areas to explore.
Use a Compost Pile: Over time, bedding will break down, so consider starting a compost pile for the old material. Chickens love to help turn the compost if it’s near the run!
Watch for Scratching: Chickens are great at scratching to find bugs and worms, but they can also create uneven ground. If this becomes a problem, you can add more bedding and top it off every couple of weeks.
These simple but consistent steps should help maintain a dry, healthy, and happy environment for your flock year-round! 🐓💧
PVC or aluminum gutters (avoid lead-based materials or any painted/coated materials that may contain toxins)
Downspout (PVC or aluminum)
Gutter hangers or brackets (to attach the gutter to the coop)
End caps (to close off the gutter ends)
Leaf guard or mesh screen (to keep leaves and debris out)
Rainwater Collection & Filtration:
Food-grade rain barrel (55-gallon or more, BPA-free plastic or stainless steel)
Downspout diverter (optional but helps direct water to the barrel)
First-flush diverter (removes initial dirty runoff before filling the barrel)
Screen filter (fine mesh to prevent debris, insects, and algae)
Spigot & overflow hose (to control water output and prevent overflow)
Non-toxic sealant (for leak-proofing)
Water Distribution System:
PVC pipes or food-grade hoses (to move water from the barrel to the chicken waterers)
Gravity-fed chicken waterer or poultry nipples/cups (to provide clean, fresh water)
Drip irrigation line (if you want a slow-feed system)
Blackout cover for the rain barrel (to prevent algae growth)
How to Rig It Up
Install Gutters on the Coop Roof
Attach the gutters along the roof edge using brackets.
Ensure a slight slope toward the downspout (about 1/4 inch per foot for proper drainage).
Secure end caps to prevent leaks.
Connect Downspout to the Rain Barrel
Position the barrel near the downspout on a raised, level surface (cinder blocks or a wooden platform).
Attach the downspout diverter to direct rainwater into the barrel.
Install a first-flush diverter (optional but helps remove dirt and contaminants from the roof before water enters the barrel).
Filter the Water
Place a fine mesh screen at the barrel opening to block debris and insects.
Use a secondary inline filter if needed.
Distribute Water to the Chickens
Install a spigot near the base of the rain barrel.
Attach a food-grade hose or PVC pipe to lead water to a gravity-fed chicken waterer or a system with poultry nipples.
Elevate the barrel to ensure good water pressure if using gravity flow.
Overflow Management
Connect an overflow hose to divert excess water away from the coop and prevent flooding.
Direct overflow into a garden or drainage area.
Keeping the Water Fresh & Safe for Chickens
Prevent Algae Growth:
Use a dark-colored or covered rain barrel to block sunlight.
Add a small amount of food-grade hydrogen peroxide (3% solution) or apple cider vinegar (1 tablespoon per gallon) to deter algae.
Prevent Mosquitoes & Debris:
Keep all openings covered with fine mesh.
Use a floating mosquito dunk (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis, BTI, safe for animals).
Winter Maintenance:
If you live in a freezing climate, consider an insulated or heated watering system.
Drain the system before freezing temperatures arrive if you’re not using a winter-proof solution.
Regular Cleaning:
Clean the rain barrel and water lines monthly with diluted vinegar or food-grade hydrogen peroxide.
Flush the gutters and first-flush diverter seasonally.
Bonus Ideas
Dual Watering System: If you want a backup, set up a manual fill option (a separate water source) in case of drought.
Garden Integration: Use overflow water for garden irrigation near the coop.
Automated Float Valve: Install a float valve in your chicken waterer to keep water at a consistent level.
This setup ensures your chickens always have access to clean, fresh water with minimal effort! Let me know if you need help tweaking the design for your specific setup. 😊
Milestones: Learning to eat, drink, and explore their brooder. Sleeping a lot but also active in short bursts.
Care: Keep them in a warm brooder at 90-95°F with a heat source. Ensure they have clean water with probiotics/electrolytes, starter feed, and baby chick grit if they are eating anything other than crumble (like tiny treats or greens).
Week 2-3: Feather Growth & Exploration
Milestones: Wing feathers developing; starting to flutter and hop.
Care:Lower brooder temp by ~5°F per week (so aim for 85-90°F in week 2, then 80-85°F in week 3).
Food & Water: Still on chick starter feed. You can introduce occasional soft treats (like scrambled eggs or finely chopped greens) with chick grit.
Week 4-5: Feathering Out & Curious Behavior
Milestones: Growing tail feathers, becoming more independent.
Care:Brooder temp around 75-80°F. If they’re in a warm area, they might not need supplemental heat during the day.
Milestones: Almost fully feathered. Can regulate body temperature better.
Care: If nighttime temps are above 50°F, they can transition outside. Ensure their coop is predator-proof.
Food & Water: At 6 weeks, you can start phasing in grower feed if they’re not staying on starter until 8 weeks. (Grower feed has less protein than starter but supports steady growth.)
Week 8-16: Adolescence (“Pullets”)
Milestones: Combs & wattles begin developing. Some early egg-layers may start showing interest in nesting areas.
Care: They’re now fully adjusted to outdoor life and can free-range or explore a run.
Food & Water: Switch fully to grower feed. No layer feed yet—it has too much calcium for growing birds!
Week 16-20+: Preparing for Laying
Milestones: Hens may start squatting when touched (a sign eggs are coming soon).
Care: Provide a nest box with soft bedding and encourage them to check it out.
Food & Water:Switch to layer feed around 18-20 weeks, when they are close to laying. Introduce free-choice oyster shell for calcium.
Diatomaceous Earth (Food Grade) – Add a small amount (about 1 cup per 5 gallons of the mix). This helps to control parasites like mites and lice, but it should be used sparingly because too much can irritate their respiratory system.
Dirt – Start with about 2-3 inches of dry, loose dirt or soil as the base. This provides the primary surface for the chickens to dig into.
Sand – Add a layer of fine, dry sand (about 1-2 inches). Sand helps to absorb moisture, dries out the dust bath, and makes it easy for chickens to fluff their feathers.
Wood Ash – Add about 1-2 cups of wood ash for every 5 gallons of the dust bath mix. Wood ash helps with keeping the bath dry and also has natural pest-repelling properties.
Dried Herbs – A little something extra for the girls to enjoy 🙂
Here’s a summary of everything you need to care for baby chicks so they grow up happy and healthy.
Essential Supplies for Raising Baby Chicks
Brooder Box – A safe, enclosed space to keep chicks warm. A large plastic tote, stock tank, or wooden box lined with something easy to clean works well.
Heat Source – Chicks need a consistent heat source.
Best option: A heat plate brooder (safer, mimics a mother hen).
Other option: A heat lamp (use a red bulb to reduce stress and avoid overheating).
Temperature:
First week: 95°F
Lower by 5°F each week until they are fully feathered (~6 weeks).
Bedding – Pine shavings are best (not cedar—it’s toxic). Paper towels can be used for the first few days to help them learn to eat. Avoid slippery surfaces like newspaper.
Feeder & Chick Starter Feed –
Use chick starter feed (medicated or non-medicated depending on if you vaccinate for coccidiosis).
Keep feed available at all times.
Waterer & Fresh Water –
Use a shallow chick waterer to prevent drowning.
Add clean marbles or pebbles to the dish for the first week to keep them safe.
Change water daily to avoid contamination.
Electrolytes & Probiotics – Helpful for the first few days to prevent stress and dehydration.
Grit (optional, but helpful if giving treats) – Chicks don’t need grit if only eating starter ,feed, but they do if you give them anything else.
For a safe and effective brooder heater, a heat plate or a ceramic heat emitter are both excellent choices. Here’s a breakdown of options you can consider:
1. Brooder Heat Plate (Recommended for Safety and Efficiency)
A heat plate mimics the warmth of a mother hen, offering a more natural heat source without the fire risk of a heat lamp. They are typically adjustable to different heights as the chicks grow.
Brinsea EcoGlow 20 Brooder
Pros: Safe, energy-efficient, adjustable height, and perfect for small to medium-sized flocks (up to 20 chicks).
Cons: Higher initial cost, but a solid investment for multiple brooder setups over time.
Premier 1 Supplies Brooder Heat Plate
Pros: Adjustable, energy-efficient, and provides a natural heat source, similar to a mother hen.
Cons: Can only be used in a safe, enclosed brooder area (like your kiddie pool setup).
2. Ceramic Heat Emitter (If You Prefer a Non-Lighting Heat Source)
Ceramic heat emitters provide heat without light, which can help prevent chicks from getting overly stressed by bright lights.
Zoo Med ReptiTherm Ceramic Heat Emitter
Pros: Provides steady, non-light heat, easy to mount in a brooder, safe for long-term use.
Cons: Requires a heat lamp fixture and a thermostat to control the temperature.
3. Infrared Heat Lamp (If You Prefer a Light-Based Heat Source)
While heat lamps can work, they come with more safety risks, especially if knocked over or improperly secured. If you decide to go with one, consider a red or amber bulb to avoid startling the chicks with harsh light.
Mighty Nest LED Heat Lamp
Pros: Low wattage LED, safer than traditional incandescent lamps.
Cons: It may not heat as efficiently as heat plates, so ensure the temperature stays stable.
General Tips:
Thermometers: Use a thermometer to keep track of the temperature in the brooder. The ideal temperature starts at around 95°F in the first week, and you can decrease it by about 5°F each week until they’re fully feathered (around 6-8 weeks).
Safety: No matter the heat source, make sure everything is secure to prevent fire hazards. For heat lamps, use a clamp or guard to secure the lamp in place.
Given your cozy porch setup, I’d recommend going with a heat plate or ceramic emitter for the safest, most consistent heat without the worry of fires.
Daily Care for Baby Chicks
Temperature Check: If chicks huddle together under the heat source, they’re too cold. If they spread far away, it’s too hot. If they move around happily, it’s just right.
Food & Water: Make sure they always have fresh feed and water.
Bedding Maintenance: Spot-clean daily and do a full bedding change as needed.
Socialization: Handle them gently every day so they get used to you. Sitting quietly near the brooder and letting them approach your hand helps build trust.
Health Checks: Look for signs of pasty butt (dried poop blocking the vent). If you see it, gently clean with a warm, damp cloth to prevent health issues.
Hatchery & Farm Store Recommendations
If you decide to order chicks, here are some good sources that ship to Michigan:
1. Meyer Hatchery (Ohio)
One of the best hatcheries in the Midwest—great for cold-hardy breeds.
Offers small orders (even just 3 chicks), which is great for backyard flocks.
Has a wide selection, including Easter Eggers, Buff Orpingtons, and Plymouth Rocks.
4. Local Farm Stores (Tractor Supply, Rural King, Family Farm & Home)
Many stores start carrying chicks in late February or March.
Check breed availability early—they often sell out fast!
Store chicks may be a little more stressed from travel, so check for pasty butt when selecting.
Great Cold-Hardy Breeds for a Mixed Flock in Michigan
Since you want good layers that can handle Michigan winters, here are some great options that also tend to be friendly and easygoing:
Buff Orpingtons – Super sweet, great layers, and very cold-hardy.
Plymouth Rocks (Barred or White) – Reliable layers with fun personalities.
Easter Eggers – Lay blue, green, or even pinkish eggs—fun variety!
Australorps – Black, glossy birds with great egg production and gentle temperaments.
Speckled Sussex – Friendly, curious, and beautiful feather patterning.
Wyandottes (Silver or Gold Laced) – Cold-hardy, gorgeous, and great layers.
Brahmas – Big, fluffy birds with feathered feet; very cold-resistant.
All of these breeds should get along well, especially if they’re raised together from chicks. If you get them from your friend, you might get a surprise mix depending on what breeds her rooster has been mingling with!
ChatGPT said:
Got it! That means you’ll want sexed pullets (female chicks) to avoid ending up with an unexpected rooster. If you’re getting chicks from your friend, you might want to ask if she knows how to sex them or if she has older pullets available—otherwise, with straight-run chicks, there’s always a chance of getting a rooster or two.
If you do end up with a surprise roo, you’ll have some time before he starts crowing (usually around 12-16 weeks). But since you can’t keep one, it might be good to have a plan for rehoming, just in case!
Chick Nursery Setup
We have a cozy four-season porch. I was planning on keeping them in an a protected cat “play pen” and placing a 4’ wide “kiddie pool” inside into which I’ll place the bedding, brooder heater, food and water, etc.
ChatGPT said:
That sounds like an ideal setup! The four-season porch will give them a safe, warm space with some natural light, and the cat playpen will add extra protection. A kiddie pool is a great idea—it’s spacious and easy to clean.
A Few Tips for Your Setup:
Draft Protection: Since your porch might be a bit cooler than indoors, you might want to add a wind-block (like cardboard or foam board) around the sides of the playpen to keep drafts out.
Brooder Heater Placement: If using a heat plate, make sure it has room for chicks to move in and out freely. If using a heat lamp, clamp it securely and double-check the height to maintain the right temp.
Escape Prevention: As they grow, chicks will start testing their wings by about 2-3 weeks old. A mesh cover (or hardware cloth) over the top will keep them from flying out of the pool.
Easy Cleaning: Lining the bottom with puppy pads under the bedding can make cleanup easier. Spot-clean daily to keep things dry and reduce odor.
ChatGPT said:
That sounds like a perfect number—small enough to manage easily but still giving them a little flock dynamic! Plus, with a cozy brooder setup, they’ll stay warm and social without overcrowding.
Since you’ll only have 3-4, you might want to aim for docile, friendly breeds that will integrate well together. If you’re getting them from a hatchery or farm store, you can probably choose exactly which ones you want. But if you’re getting them from your friend, you might get some fun surprise genetics!
ChatGPT said:
That’s perfect! Handling them daily from a young age will make a huge difference in how friendly and social they become.
Tips for Raising Extra-Friendly Chicks:
Hand-Feeding Treats: Once they’re a few days old, try offering small treats like scrambled eggs or finely crushed mealworms from your hand—they’ll start associating you with good things!
Talking to Them: Chicks get used to voices quickly. Talking softly while feeding or cleaning helps them recognize you as safe.
Slow Movements: Move gently when reaching into the brooder so they don’t get startled.
Lap Time: Once they’re comfortable, let them perch on your hand or sit with them in your lap. They’ll start seeking you out for warmth and comfort.
Finger Perching: Encourage them to hop onto your finger/hand by placing it in front of them—this builds trust and makes future handling easier.
By the time they move to the coop, they’ll likely follow you around and come running when they see you!
There are a few key medications and vaccinations that are commonly recommended for chickens to ensure they stay strong and disease-free.
Essential Vaccinations for Chicks:
Marek’s Disease Vaccine
When: Given at the hatchery (usually day 1 for chicks) or within the first week if you’re raising them yourself.
Why: Marek’s Disease is a viral disease that affects chickens’ nervous systems. Vaccination is highly recommended to prevent it, as it’s easily spread.
Coccidiosis Vaccine (Coccivac)
When: Typically given at day 1 (or within the first few days after hatching).
Why: Coccidiosis is a common parasitic infection that can cause digestive distress. Vaccinating against it helps protect your chicks as their immune systems develop.
Newcastle Disease and Infectious Bronchitis
When: Some hatcheries provide a combination vaccine for these diseases. Otherwise, the vaccine is given later, around 6-8 weeks, if needed.
Why: These are viral respiratory diseases that can spread rapidly among flocks, causing high mortality in young birds.
Other Health Considerations:
Deworming:
When: Chickens are usually dewormed at around 8 weeks and then every 6 months or as needed, based on local parasite risks.
Why: Worms can cause weight loss, lethargy, and digestive issues in chickens. Common dewormers include Ivermectin or Fenbendazole, but always check with your vet for the best option for your area.
Feather Mites or Lice Treatment:
When: If you notice signs of feather mites or lice (like scratching or visible bugs), treat your chickens with a poultry dust or an insecticidal spray that’s safe for birds.
Why: External parasites can cause discomfort, skin irritation, and even anemia in severe cases. Regular monitoring and cleaning of the coop can help prevent infestations.
Basic Care Tips:
Clean Water: Make sure they always have access to fresh, clean water to help with digestion and overall health.
Good Nutrition: A high-quality chick starter feed helps them grow strong and builds immunity to infections. Once they’re older, you can switch to layer feed with added calcium.
Monitoring: Keep an eye out for signs of illness (lethargy, changes in egg production, diarrhea) and seek vet advice if needed.
You can order both vaccines and dewormers online, but it’s important to make sure you’re getting them from reputable sources that specialize in poultry care. Here are some places where you can find what you need:
For Vaccines:
Meyer Hatchery
They offer various vaccines like the Marek’s Disease vaccine and Coccivac, which can be shipped directly to you when you order chicks or separately.
Ideal Poultry
This site provides poultry vaccinations, including the Marek’s and Coccidia vaccines, for both chicks and adult chickens.
Tractor Supply Co.
You can find poultry vaccines in-store or online, including common ones like Marek’s and Newcastle Disease.
First State Veterinary Supply
Specializes in veterinary supplies and vaccines, including poultry products.
For Dewormers:
Farm & Fleet
They offer various dewormers, including Ivermectin and Fenbendazole, for poultry.
The Chicken Chick’s Online Store
You can find a range of poultry supplies, including natural deworming options.
Amazon
A wide selection of poultry dewormers, though be sure to check reviews and ensure the product is safe for chickens.
A Few Things to Keep in Mind:
Consult with a vet if you’re unsure which specific vaccines or dewormers your chickens need based on your region.
Shipping Restrictions: Some states may have restrictions on shipping live vaccines or certain medications, so it’s always a good idea to check local regulations.
Distance from the House: Ideally, place the coop 30–50 feet away from your house. Close enough for easy access (especially in bad weather) but far enough to manage odors, flies, and noise.
Drainage & Elevation: Choose a well-drained, slightly elevated spot to prevent water pooling and mud, which can lead to disease. If your yard is flat, consider adding a gravel base or raised foundation.
Sun & Shade: Chickens love sun, but they also need shade. If possible, position the coop where it gets morning sun and afternoon shade (near trees or a structure).
How to Keep Mice & Rodents Away
Secure Food Storage: Store feed in metal bins with tight lids—rodents can chew through plastic.
No Overnight Feed: Remove leftover food from the run at night.
Hardware Cloth, Not Chicken Wire: Mice and rats can squeeze through small gaps in chicken wire, so use 1/4-inch hardware cloth on vents and entry points.
Deep Clean Regularly: Rodents are attracted to spilled feed and droppings, so sweep and clean often.
Trap, Don’t Poison: If you have a rodent issue, use traps rather than poison, which could harm your chickens.
Essential Elements for a Good Coop
Size & Space:
4 sq ft per bird inside the coop (bigger is better).
10 sq ft per bird in the run if they won’t free-range.
Ventilation:
Proper airflow prevents ammonia buildup and keeps moisture down.
Install vents near the roof (covered with hardware cloth).
Predator-Proofing:
Buried hardware cloth apron (12”–18” outward) to stop digging predators.
Secure latches (raccoons can open simple latches!).
Locking doors at night—even if you have an enclosed run.
Nesting Boxes:
1 box per 3–4 hens, each about 12”x12”x12”.
Keep them off the ground and lined with soft bedding.
Perches/Roosts:
Chickens sleep on perches, so provide 8–12” of space per bird.
Use 2”x4” boards (wide side up)—better for their feet in winter.
Dust Bath Area:
Chickens need dust baths to stay clean and pest-free.
A dry, sandy area with diatomaceous earth or wood ash helps.
Weather Protection:
Shade in summer, windbreaks in winter.
Covered run to keep them dry.
Would you be building your own coop or getting a pre-made one? And are you planning to free-range them or keep them in a run?
Since you have a lot of predators around, security is going to be key. Here are some extra tips to keep your flock safe:
Predator-Proofing Your Coop & Run
Hardware Cloth Everywhere
Use 1/4-inch hardware cloth instead of chicken wire (which raccoons and weasels can rip through).
Cover all windows, vents, and gaps bigger than ½ inch with hardware cloth.
Dig-Proof Skirt
Bury hardware cloth at least 12-18 inches deep around the perimeter OR
Lay an apron of hardware cloth outward 12-24 inches along the ground to stop digging predators like foxes and coyotes.
Locking Doors & Latches
Use carabiners or predator-proof latches (raccoons can open simple slide latches).
Make sure all coop doors, egg box lids, and access points are securely latched at night.
Automatic Coop Door (Optional but Worth It!)
A solar or battery-powered automatic door can be a lifesaver—closing at dusk and opening at dawn.
Covered Run
A fully enclosed run with hardware cloth on top prevents hawks, owls, and climbing predators from getting in.
If using netting, choose strong welded-wire netting instead of soft poultry netting.
No Gaps or Weak Spots
Reinforce gaps at corners, where walls meet the roof, and under doors—weasels can squeeze through a hole the size of a quarter!
Winter & Cold Weather Prep
Since you’re in a wooded area, your winters may get cold. Chickens can handle the cold well, but they need:
Draft-free but ventilated coop (prevents frostbite from moisture buildup).
2×4 roosts (wide side up) so their toes don’t curl under and freeze.
Deep bedding (straw, pine shavings) for insulation.
Heated waterer so their water doesn’t freeze.
Other Considerations
Electric fencing around the run can deter larger predators like bears, coyotes, and dogs.
Motion sensor lights or predator deterrent lights (red blinking “night eyes” can scare off raccoons and foxes).
Secure feed storage (wildlife will be attracted to spilled feed).
As long as you manage potential odor, flies, and rodents, a close coop can be a great setup. A few things to consider:
Managing a Coop Close to the House
✔ Ventilation & Drainage – Since your yard is hilly, make sure rainwater drains away from the coop (so you don’t get mud or runoff near your house). ✔ Deep Litter Method – Using deep bedding (pine shavings, straw, or sand) can help keep odors down. Stirring it up regularly also helps. ✔ Compost Nearby? – If you compost, chicken manure makes fantastic fertilizer. You could set up a compost bin downhill from the coop so water runoff carries nutrients away from the house. ✔ Rodent Prevention – Keep feed in metal bins and collect food scraps before nightfall to avoid attracting mice. ✔ Sound & Smell – Chickens aren’t super loud (except for roosters), but in summer, warm air can carry coop smells toward the house. Good ventilation and cleaning will help prevent that.
Bonus of a Close Coop
Easy egg collection – No trekking through deep snow!
Faster predator response – If something is lurking, you’ll hear it.
Convenient electricity access – If you ever need a heated waterer or automatic door, you won’t have to run long extension cords.
Since you have hills, does the flat spot get a lot of wind? If so, a windbreak (fencing, shrubs, or positioning the coop near a structure) could help keep drafts down in the winter.
Would you be building the coop on the ground or slightly raised? A raised coop might help with drainage and rodent control in your case.
ChatGPT said:
That sounds like an excellent location! Having the coop on the east side of the house gives your chickens protection from the harshest winter winds while still letting in morning sun, which helps keep the coop warm in winter. Plus, if it’s shaded from intense afternoon sun, your birds will be much more comfortable in the summer.
Why a Raised Coop is a Great Choice
✔ Better Drainage – Keeps the floor dry, prevents flooding, and reduces mud issues. ✔ Rodent & Predator Protection – Harder for mice, rats, and digging predators (like foxes) to get in. ✔ Extra Shelter – The space under the coop gives the chickens shade in summer and a dry spot when it rains.
Final Considerations for Placement & Design
📏 Distance from House – Close enough for easy access, but if possible, leave at least 10-15 feet of space to avoid smells drifting into open windows. 🚪 Door Positioning – Face the coop door/run entrance south or southeast for good light and warmth. 💨 Ventilation – Since it’s protected from the west wind, make sure the coop has upper vents (like gable vents or soffit vents) to let moisture escape. Frostbite risk goes up if humid air gets trapped inside. 🐓 Run Placement – If predators are a big concern, consider a fully enclosed walk-in run with a secure roof (hardware cloth or metal roofing).
It sounds like you’ve picked a really smart setup—great protection from the elements and easy access for daily care. Are you planning to collect eggs from an outside access hatch, or will you enter the coop to gather them?
ChatGPT said:
Perfect! An outside access hatch for egg collection will make things so much easier—you won’t have to step inside the coop every day, and in bad weather, you’ll be grateful for the convenience!
Best Design Tips for Nesting Boxes with an Exterior Hatch
✔ Height Placement:
Mount 12-18 inches off the floor so chickens don’t roost inside them.
If the coop is raised, make sure the hatch is at a comfortable height for you to access.
✔ Weatherproofing the Hatch:
Install a sloped, overhanging lid to prevent rain or snow from leaking in.
Use strong hinges and a secure latch (raccoons are sneaky little burglars).
Rubber or foam weather stripping can help seal gaps and keep out drafts.
✔ Size & Nesting Material:
Standard size: 12”x12”x12” per box.
Bedding: Pine shavings, straw, or nesting pads for comfort.
Plan for 1 box per 3-4 hens (but they’ll probably all fight over the same one anyway!).
✔ Hinged or Drop-Down Hatch?
A top-hinged lid (lifting up) is easiest for collecting eggs.
A drop-down front panel can also work but might let in rain if not well-sealed.
Since you’re raising the coop, you could also design a roll-out egg collection system, where eggs gently roll forward into a collection tray outside the coop. This keeps eggs clean and unbroken—but it’s totally optional!
Your coop is shaping up to be extremely well thought-out. Do you have any specific features you want to include, like an automatic door, roosting ladder, or extra insulation for winter?
1. Automatic Coop Door (Sunlight Triggered)
✅ Best Type for Your Setup:
Light-Sensitive (Dawn/Dusk Sensor) – Opens at sunrise and closes at sunset automatically.
Battery or Solar-Powered – Since your coop is near the house, you could also run power if needed, but solar keeps it self-sufficient.
✅ Key Features to Look For:
Safety Mechanism – A door with a slow-close feature prevents trapping a chicken.
Strong Materials – Aluminum or heavy-duty plastic doors prevent raccoons or foxes from lifting them.
Manual Override – Just in case you need to open or close it yourself.
💡 Bonus Tip: If predators are a major concern, consider adding a secondary locking mechanism at night (especially against raccoons, which can figure out some doors!).
2. Rain Barrel Water Collection for the Coop
A rain barrel system is a fantastic way to keep your flock hydrated without hauling water all the time! Since your greenhouse also lacks water access, you could expand the system later to supply both areas.
✅ Setting It Up:
Gutter System – If your coop has a slanted roof, install a small gutter and downspout to collect rainwater into a barrel.
Food-Grade Barrel – Look for a 55-gallon BPA-free plastic barrel (blue barrels work well).
Mosquito & Algae Prevention – Use a fine mesh screen over the intake to keep out debris and bugs.
✅ Winter Considerations:
Install a freeze-proof valve or disconnect the system in winter to prevent bursting.
If you want year-round use, consider burying a small holding tank below the frost line and running a heated line to the coop.
✅ Getting the Water to the Chickens:
Use poultry nipple drinkers or a small gravity-fed waterer attached to the barrel.
Raise the barrel on cinder blocks so water can flow downward easily.
Add a low-watt stock tank heater if you want to prevent freezing in winter.
This Setup Will Save You a Ton of Time!
With an auto door and rain barrel, your chickens will be safer, happier, and require less daily work.
Are you planning to build the coop roof from wood & shingles or use metal roofing? Metal roofing sheds water well, making rain collection even easier.
How to Set Up a Perfect Dust Bath
✅ Ideal Location:
Dry, well-drained area – Needs to stay dry year-round, so under a covered section of the run or inside the coop (if large enough) works well.
Sunny spot in winter, shady spot in summer – If possible, position it where it gets morning sun but afternoon shade to keep it comfy.
✅ Container Options:
Dig a shallow pit (3-6 inches deep)
Use a large, low-sided tub (like a half-barrel, old tire, or wooden box)
Frame out a 2×2 or 3×3 foot square with wood or bricks to keep it tidy
✅ Best Dust Bath Mix:
Dry, fine dirt or sand – Base material, easy to dig into.
Diatomaceous earth (DE) – Food-grade only! Destroys pests but should be mixed in lightly (too much can be drying).
Dried herbs (optional) – Chickens love lavender, oregano, or rosemary for extra pest control.
Winter Dust Bathing
If you get deep snow, chickens can’t dust bathe outside. Consider putting a dust bath inside the coop or under the covered run so they can still clean themselves.
Final Tip: Chickens Will Use It… A Lot
Once you set it up, expect them to flop, wiggle, kick, and roll around in it like lunatics—it’s completely normal and actually one of the funniest things to watch!
Would you like some winter boredom-buster ideas too? Chickens can get stir-crazy in deep snow!
1. Hanging Veggie Treats
How to set it up: Hang cabbage, carrots, or apples from the ceiling of the run or inside the coop. This will give your chickens something to peck at and provide entertainment as they figure out how to get to the treats.
Bonus: You can hang treats at varying heights, encouraging them to jump and reach.
2. Foraging Boxes
How to set it up: Fill a shallow box or bin with dried leaves, hay, or straw and bury some scratch grains, sunflower seeds, or dried mealworms inside. Chickens will happily scratch through it for their treats.
Bonus: You can rotate the contents to keep it fresh and exciting for them. Adding some pine shavings or dried herbs for variety also works great.
3. Ice Block Treats
How to set it up: Freeze treats like berries, grains, or vegetables in an ice block. Simply add the treats to a container, pour water over them, and freeze. When it’s time to feed them, you can hang the ice block or place it on the ground for them to peck at.
Bonus: This works especially well on warm winter days when they’ll enjoy the cold treat!
4. Scrambled Eggs or Warm Oats
How to set it up: On extra-cold days, serve up some scrambled eggs (chickens love them!) or warm oats. They’ll love the warmth and the protein.
Bonus: Scrambled eggs also have the added benefit of being a natural dewormer!
5. Roosting Bar Entertainment
How to set it up: If you have multiple levels of roosting bars in the coop, your chickens will enjoy moving between them. You can also add natural branches or logs for them to climb on.
Bonus: Consider attaching a mirror to the side of the coop. Chickens will enjoy socializing with their “reflections.”
6. DIY Chicken Toys
How to set it up: You can make simple hanging toys like pinecones rolled in peanut butter and then sprinkled with seeds. Chickens love pecking at them, and it will keep their beaks busy!
Bonus: You can also make paper-wrapped treats filled with dried herbs for scratching and pecking.
7. Tractor or Treadmill
How to set it up: If your run is big enough, create a chicken tractor (a movable pen). This way, your chickens can enjoy fresh ground by moving them from one section of the yard to another.
Bonus: Alternatively, a small treadmill or wheel could provide indoor exercise (though this might take a little while for them to get the hang of it!).
8. Hay or Straw Bale
How to set it up: Provide a hay bale or straw bale for your chickens to hop on, scratch, and investigate. It adds height variation and something fun to jump on, which they’ll love.
Bonus: You can hide some treats inside for them to peck at!
Pro Tip: Rotate your boredom busters! Chickens love novelty, so changing up the toys or treats you provide every few days will keep things interesting.
Winter chicken care can be a lot of fun with a few creative ideas! Do you have a covered run area that they can enjoy in the snow, or will they mostly be inside during the worst weather?
How Often to Introduce New Birds
A good rule of thumb is to add new hens every 1-2 years to maintain a balanced flock. Introducing new chickens too quickly can lead to stress and pecking among the older hens, so spacing them out gives everyone time to adjust.
Suggested Timing for Adding New Birds
Year 1: Start with a small group (3-4 hens) to build your foundation flock.
Year 2-3: Add another small group (3-4 hens) as your first batch starts to slow down in egg production.
Year 4: Introduce a new group again to replace hens that have retired from laying, or when the older hens start to show their age.
Keep adding hens every 1-2 years, depending on how your flock’s egg production declines and your space limitations.
Space Them Out: Tips for Smooth Integration
Space is important when integrating new chickens into your flock, and here are a few ways to handle it:
1. Separate Quarantine Area
Why: Before introducing new birds, keep them in a quarantine area for 2-3 weeks to ensure they’re healthy and not carrying any diseases or parasites.
How: This should be completely separate from your existing chickens to avoid any risk. You can use a small pen inside the run or a completely different section of the coop.
2. Slow Introduction Process
How to do it: After quarantine, introduce new birds gradually:
First Step: Let them see each other through a fence or wire for a week or two. This allows them to get used to each other without direct contact.
Second Step: Start letting them mingle during supervised time, keeping an eye on them.
Third Step: If the integration goes smoothly, let them share the run, but keep an eye out for any bullying or pecking.
Tip: Having plenty of space, food, water, and hiding spots helps reduce tension and allows the hens to spread out if needed.
3. Age Group Balance
When adding new birds, aim to keep the new flock members around the same age range to avoid dominance issues. For example, adding 6-month-old birds to a flock of 3-year-olds could cause more bullying or stress since the older hens will likely be more dominant.
4. Space in the Coop/Run
For a smooth transition, make sure you have enough space in the coop and run for everyone. A minimum of 4 square feet per chicken in the coop and 10 square feet per chicken in the run is a good starting point. The more room, the easier it will be for your flock to get along.
Signs It’s Time to Add More Birds
Egg production drops significantly (especially after 3 years of age).
You notice your hens are bored, lonely, or showing signs of stress (feathers missing, pecking, etc.).
You’re ready to extend your egg supply or have more hens for other reasons.
By spacing out new additions and making the introduction process gradual, your chickens will be much more likely to adjust without stress. You’ll also keep your egg production more consistent over time.
Is there a particular breed or number of hens you plan to start with? That’ll help refine your flock-building plan a little further.
RAMPS
The optimum angle for a chicken ramp depends on the texture of the ramp and the breed of chickens you have, but a good rule of thumb is:
Ideal Ramp Angle
30-45 degrees → Best range for most chickens. Provides an easy climb without being too steep.
45-50 degrees → Can work if the ramp has deep, wide cleats for traction, but might be tough for heavier breeds.
Over 50 degrees → Too steep for most chickens unless they are very agile (like bantams).
Ramp Design Tips
Width: At least 8-12 inches wide for comfort.
Cleats/Rungs: Place every 3-5 inches apart to prevent slipping.
Surface: Use non-slip material (wood with a rough texture, rubber grip, or hardware cloth for extra traction).
If your coop is raised higher than 24 inches, a shallower ramp (closer to 30 degrees) is better. If space is limited, you can use a wider ramp with more cleats at a steeper angle.
Are you planning to build a straight ramp, or would you consider a staggered ladder style?
The Township’s zoning ordinance defines what type of animals are allowed on certain properties to ensure the community’s safety and wellbeing. The zoning ordinance allows residents to keep chickens on their property if they are more than 25 feet from a home or property line. Roosters are prohibited. The Township does not require permits to own chickens or other domestic and farm animals.
Additionally, the Township allows:
Domestic animals. This includes cats, dogs, chinchillas, ferrets, fish and non-venomous lizards, snakes, and spiders, as well as caged amphibians, birds and rodents.
Farm animals. This includes horses, pigs, cattle, sheep, goats, llamas, chickens, geese, ducks, waterfowls, turkeys or any other animal raised for commercial profit.
Unlike domestic animals, farm animals can only be kept on larger properties. Specifically, farm animals kept within a structure must be at least 50 feet from any property line. Free-range farm animals must be kept at least 100 feet from any property line with the exception of chickens or domesticated waterfowl, which fall under the regulations listed above.
The Township does not allow residents to keep wild animals of any kind on their property. All animal owners are responsible for keeping the animals on their own property, as well ensuring living conditions are safe and clean.
You can learn more about the Township’s zoning ordinance pertaining to animals, by clicking here and reviewing Section 3.02.
With the growing popularity of backyard chicken keeping, the Township has seen an increase in inquiries from residents. The Zoning Ordinance establishes guidelines for animal ownership to protect the community. Here’s the scoop on keeping chickens:
Permitted with Restrictions: Chickens are allowed, but coops and runs must be at least 25 feet away from neighboring homes and property lines.
No Roosters: Those noisy alarm clocks are prohibited.
No Permits Required: You don’t need a special permit for chickens or other domestic/farm animals.
Plainfield Township classifies animals as follows:
Domestic Animals: Cats, dogs, chinchillas, ferrets, fish, non-venomous reptiles, caged amphibians, birds, and rodents fall into this category.
Farm Animals: Horses, pigs, cattle, sheep, goats, llamas, chickens, geese, ducks, other waterfowl, turkeys, and animals raised for commercial purposes. These have stricter setback requirements (50ft for structures, 100ft free-range), except chickens and domesticated waterfowl which follow the 25ft rule.
Wild Animals: Keeping wild animals is prohibited.
All animal owners must keep their animals confined to their property and provide clean, safe living conditions.
For the full details on the Township’s Zoning Ordinance related to animals, click here and review Section 3.02. Have additional questions? Contact the Community Development Department with any questions at (616) 364-1190 .
