Salt and Pepper Pygmy Cory Catfish (Corydoras habrosus)
The Salt and Pepper Pygmy Cory Catfish (Corydoras habrosus) is a very animated, distinctively marked schooling fish that is perfect for the community and planted aquarium. As its name suggests, it has a light tan body covered with black and shiny silver spotting and broken striping. This is a much smaller species than the similarly-named Peppered Cory Catfish (Corydoras paleatus), which we also offer.
The Salt and Pepper Pygmy Cory Catfish is a very peaceful schooling fish that is compatible with most nano aquarium animals. It might eat dwarf shrimp fry, but is generally safe to keep with adult dwarf shrimp. It is a classic scavenger and will inhabit and feed at the aquarium floor, which should be comprised of sand or smooth gravel. Very coarse substrate can damage its delicate barbells and underbelly. This fish is otherwise very undemanding as it will accept most dry and frozen foods. It is adaptable to most tropical freshwater conditions as long as standard regular maintenance is performed.
Care Guide for Otocinclus Catfish — Peaceful, Schooling Algae Eater
If you start getting algae in your new fish tank, most major pet stores will recommend that you buy a pleco or suckermouth catfish. The problem is that most plecos grow rather large, especially the common pleco that can reach up to 2 feet (60 cm). Instead, why not get their much smaller cousin, the otocinclus catfish? They are the perfect fish that have a peaceful personality and amazing cleaning skills. Learn how to keep these adorable algae-eaters and make sure they’re getting enough to eat.
What are Otocinclus Catfish?
This genus of South American catfish consists of about 20 species so far and are often referred to as “otos” for short. Common species in the aquarium hobby include O. vittatus (common otocinclus), O. macrospilus (dwarf otocinclus), and O. cocama (zebra oto). Otocinclus typically range from 1.5–2 inches (4–5 cm), and many kinds are known for having a black horizontal line, dark grayish-brown back, and white belly. Unlike many catfish, they are diurnal (or awake during the daytime). They can usually be found grazing or resting on the ground and flat surfaces (e.g., plant leaves, hardscape, and tank walls) until they suddenly zip away to the other side of the tank.
Are otocinclus good algae eaters? These little critters love nothing more than to nibble algae off plants, glass, tank decor, and other smooth surfaces. They specialize in eating softer algae such as soft green algae and brown diatoms and tend to avoid harder types like black beard or green spot algae. They also love to eat the biofilm that grows on driftwood and other botanicals that are slowly breaking down in the aquarium. Otocinclus perched on an aquarium plant
How to Purchase Otocinclus Catfish
Otocinclus have a reputation for being sensitive fish that are hard to keep alive, but experienced aquarists will tell you that otos are actually very resilient fish and they often avoid catching common illnesses that plague other fish. Their greatest weakness is not getting enough to eat. Currently, most otocinclus are caught from the wild and sent to an exporter’s warehouse, where they are fasted for several days so that they won’t produce too much waste when they are shipped out. Then they arrive at a wholesaler, and hundreds of them are put into a bare aquarium where they may spend a few weeks without getting enough food. By the time the fish store buys the otos from the wholesaler, the fish may not have eaten well for the past 3–6 weeks and will come in pretty skinny.
Even through all that stress, there’s a good chance that otocinclus can still thrive in your aquarium if you follow a few simple tips to greatly increase their survivability:
Make sure you have tons of algae in an aquarium for them to pig out on when you bring them home. The best way to accomplish this is to set up a quarantine tank and simply leave the light on for a week or so until algae is growing all over the place.
Go buy the otos the day after they come into the pet or fish store. This goes against conventional wisdom which says that you want to buy fish that have been at the pet store longer to prove their longevity and lessen the shock of being transported too soon after arrival. Given that the otocinclus are typically grouped together in large numbers and put into tanks that can’t produce enough algae, you want to pick out the strongest fish and take them home to pamper as soon as possible.
Pick the healthiest otos with round, pearly abdomens that are happily swimming around and feeding in the tank. The problem with scrawny otocinclus catfish is that once they have been starved of food, it is often hard to get them to eat again.
Besides algae, try offering them lots of different kinds of foods to see what they’ll eat. See the below section on dietary requirements for more ideas.
You know you have achieved success in finding a good food balance for your otos if they have lived in your tank for more than a month or two. Once your fish have survived that long, it means they are getting enough food to continue happily navigating their new home. 3 healthy otocinclus with rounded, pearl-like bellies
How to Set Up an Aquarium for Otocinclus
Otos are relatively hardy in terms of water parameters and can live in fish tanks with temperatures between 70-79°F (21-26°C), pH of 6.0–7.5, and soft to hard water. As mentioned before, they do best in a mature aquarium with lots of algae and biofilm, especially one that is planted and has plenty of hiding spots. In fact, when we collected fish in Peru, we often found them by lifting up pieces of wood from the water, so they probably feel safer there and like foraging on the driftwood for microfauna. The rivers we found them in were murky with silt and tannins, so some hobbyists like to dim the lights or add catappa leaves to tint the water. Consider getting slow-growing plants with flat leaves that are known to be algae-magnets, such as Anubias barteri. Also, we tend to only scrape off algae from the front aquarium panel so that it can grow on the other three walls and provide more food for the otos.
How many otocinclus should be kept together? Usually, we suggest keeping schooling fish in as large of a group as possible, but the problem with otocinclus is that too many of them may end up consuming all the algae in the aquarium. It is much better to have a couple of plump and healthy otos than a school of six that are slowly starving to death over time. The best thing you can do is to not overstock the tank with otocinclus (and other algae eaters) to make sure there’s enough algae and food to go around.
What fish can live with otocinclus? Otocinclus don’t have a mean bone in their bodies and are well-suited for peaceful community setups. Avoid any aggressive species that will pick on them or are large enough to eat them. Instead, choose other similar-sized, docile tank mates that won’t outcompete them for food — such as tetras, rasboras, corydoras, kuhli loaches, snails, and dwarf shrimp. While all fish will opportunistically eat whatever can fit in their mouths, we have even housed our otos with baby fish and shrimp and experienced minimal casualties.
Otocinclus hanging out with a school of blackline tetras
What Do Otocinclus Catfish Eat?
The reason why otocinclus have such specialized dietary requirements is because they are aufwuchs grazers that primarily suck off the slimy layer that grows on underwater plants and hardscape. This biofilm is made up of algae, diatoms, insect larvae, tiny crustaceans, and other microorganisms. That is why otos don’t tend to take to flake foods, pellets, or other normal community fish foods. Instead, they need foods that allow them to constantly graze, last for a long time in the water without breaking apart, and won’t be immediately gulped down by other species.
Not every oto eats the same thing, so keep trying different foods to see what they like — like canned green beans, algae wafers, and softened zucchini slices that have been blanched (or slightly boiled) and sitting in the aquarium water for more than 24 hours. One of our favorite foods to feed them is Repashy Soilent Green gel food, which is specially formulated for aufwuchs grazers. Just stir the powder in hot water, and while the mixture is still runny, paint it or spoon it onto a round rock or piece of driftwood. In fact, don’t forget to add driftwood and catappa leaves into their tank (even without Repashy gel food) because otos like to graze on the natural biofilm that forms as the plant fibers break down. You can tell when they are full because their bellies look like a round, white pearl. Oto munching on a slice of zucchini
How to Breed Otocinclus Catfish
In general, otocinclus have breeding behaviors that are very similar to corydoras catfish. The females are a little bigger and broader than males, especially when they are full of eggs. To condition them for spawning, feed them lots of their normal foods and introduce more protein in their diet — such as live and frozen baby brine shrimp and micro worms. Some hobbyists try to induce breeding by doing 50% water changes to imitate seasonal flooding and heavy rainfall. Like cory catfish, the mating pair forms a T position and then the female lays adhesive eggs on plant leaves and other surfaces. These clutches of 30–40 eggs should be removed or they may get eaten by other fish. Sometimes the eggs can be extremely sticky and hard to roll off.
Put the eggs into a hatching container with an air stone and wait about 3 days for the fry to hatch. The fry can be fed green water, soft algae that grows on surfaces, spirulina powder, live paramecium, soft vegetables, and tiny, 5–50 micron powdered fry foods. Eventually, you can add live baby brine shrimp to their diet for faster growth. Because of their miniscule size, make sure to use gentle flow with a sponge filter or block the intake tube of your filter with a pre-filter sponge.
Zebra or tiger otocinclus (O. cocama)
Otocinclus catfish are the sweetest, little fish to add to your planted community tank, and if you invest some love and care, they will happily thrive for years.
Care Guide for Pygmy Corydoras – The World’s Tiniest Cory Catfish
Cory catfish are beloved in the freshwater aquarium hobby because of their happy-go-lucky nature and interesting behaviors, such as constantly shuffling through the substrate for snacks. While some hobbyists enjoy keeping the larger species, like the hognosed brochis (Corydoras multiradiatus) or emerald cory catfish (C. splendens), nano aquarium enthusiasts take special pleasure in finding the most petite corys. The pygmy cory (C. pygmaeus) has become quite popular because of its adorable appearance and unique swimming style. Learn about what it takes to care for one of the smallest corydoras in the world.
Pygmy cory perched on a plant leaf
What are Pygmy Cory Catfish?
This tiny South American schooling fish grows to a grand total of 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length, with females being slightly rounder and longer than males. Its silvery body with a horizontal, black stripe is not particularly colorful, but it’s hard to resist those big, black eyes and little whiskers that look like a mustache. Like many cory catfish, they like to “wink” by quickly looking down and will dart up to the water surface to take the occasional gulp of air. In contrast though, most corydoras are known as bottom dwellers, whereas pygmy corys have the unusual habit of hovering midwater by flapping their fins, almost like an underwater hummingbird.
What is the difference between the habrosus, hastatus, and pygmy cory? All three of these dwarf corydoras are similar in size and coloration. However, they have clear differences in their patterns that you can easily identify:
C. habrosus (salt and pepper cory): silvery body with an uneven, horizontal black stripe, a tail covered with stripes, and darker splotches on the head and back
C. hastatus (tail spot cory): silvery body with a big, black spot at the base of the tail that is flanked by small, white dots
C. pygmaeus (pygmy cory): silvery body with a thin, horizontal black stripe
Left to right: C. hasbrosus, C. hastatus, and C. pygmaeus
How to Set Up an Aquarium for Pygmy Corys
Pygmy corydoras were originally discovered in the river basins of Brazil, so they are used to pH of 6.4–7.5 and moderately soft water. They also appreciate slightly cooler temperatures between 72–78°F (22–26°C). In the wild, they are prone to predation and therefore like to hide amongst the tree roots and vegetation along the riverbanks. To make them feel more comfortable in your home aquarium, add plenty of plants and hardscape for cover. We often find them perched on anubias leaves and driftwood branches to give them a bird’s eye view of what’s going on in the tank.
How many pygmy corys should be kept together? While a small group could technically fit in a 5-gallon nano tank, they can be a bit shy. Instead, get a 10-gallon or larger aquarium so that you can keep a bigger school of at least 8–12 pygmies that will be less afraid to come out.
What fish can live with pygmy corydoras? Like most cory catfish, pygmy corys are very peaceful community fish that wouldn’t harm a fly. Because they are fairly petite, make sure not to pair them with anything big enough to eat them. Also, they are not the fastest eaters, so don’t let them get outcompeted for food during mealtimes. We find that they do well with other nano species — like neon tetras, chili rasboras, celestial pearl danios, otocinclus, and even a chill betta fish. Also, they won’t bother your snails or adult-sized dwarf shrimp, although they may accidentally slurp up a baby shrimp while foraging.
Pygmy corys swimming midwater with lambchop rasboras
What Do Pygmy Corydoras Eat?
As a species that hangs out in the lower half of the aquarium, they prefer to graze off the ground or on the surfaces of plant leaves. Their little, downturned mouths are most suited for eating sinking foods that are either tiny in size or soft enough to nibble on. For example, frozen bloodworms are often too hefty to easily swallow, but frozen daphnia, cyclops, and baby brine shrimp are perfectly bite-sized. In terms of dry foods, nano pellets, freeze-dried tubifex worm, and sinking wafers are all good options that have worked well for us. One of their favorite foods is Repashy gel food — whenever we drop in a chunk, they all seem to swarm on it like bees to honey.
How to Breed Pygmy Corydoras
While pygmy corys may not be as easy to breed as bronze or albino corys (C. aeneus), many hobbyists have had success with them in home aquariums. Take a mature, 10-gallon tank that is full of plants, mulm, and microfauna for the fry to feed on. Add a colony of at least six corys to increase your chances of having both males and females and feed them well. Be patience because it may take a little while for newly purchased corys to mature if you got them as juveniles. When the female is ready and full of eggs, she is often followed by an entourage of smaller males who are hoping to mate with her.
Unlike other corys that usually lay a cluster of eggs all in the same spot, the female pygmy will deposit a single, sticky egg — about 1 mm in diameter — on a strand of java moss or the roots of floating water sprite. Then she will swim to another location to place the next egg and repeat this process until tens of eggs have been laid. There are varying reports on whether or not the parents tend to eat their own eggs, but just in case, some breeders like to gently remove the eggs with their fingers and place them in a well-aerated spawning container. They may add a few drops of methylene blue, some alder cones, or even dwarf shrimp to clean off any fungal growth.
The eggs start off as translucent white and then eventually change colors. Fertilized eggs become a translucent yellow-tan, whereas unfertilized eggs turn solid white and should be removed to prevent fungus from spreading. Depending on the water temperature, the eggs usually hatch within 2–5 days, and the newborn fry have a translucent body, two black eyes, and a black band behind their head. Within a couple of days, they develop three more black dots down their back, which eventually become a fully mottled pattern all over the body to help with camouflage. Eventually, these splotches combine to form the classic black stripe running their lateral line. This rapid transformation happens within a month or so, such that the juveniles look just like miniature adults and can be hard to tell apart from their parents.
As with most babies of nano species, start off with nearly microscopic foods like vinegar eels, infusoria, and 5–50 micron golden pearls until they’re big enough to eat live baby brine shrimp and Repashy gel food. Provide frequent small meals and frequent small water changes to keep the water quality high.
Pygmy corys love laying their eggs in dense foliage like java moss.
African dwarf frogs were first discovered in rivers, streams, puddles, and shallow ponds in various regions throughout Central Africa in the late 19th century. They are members of the Hymenochirus genus of aquatic frog species and are easily confused in appearance with the other frog species in their group, the African clawed frogs. While these fully aquatic amphibians both belong to the Pipidae family and may appear to look similar, they do have different physical and behavioral traits, which are important for beginner African dwarf frog owners to identify prior to adoption.
Identifying Male and Female African Dwarf Frogs
There are several distinct features that make it easy to identify male and female African dwarf frogs. Male African dwarf frogs are typically smaller in size as they mature, develop small glands behind their front legs called post-axillary subdermal glands, have a small tail, and “buzz” quite loud when they are excited or trying to attract their mates. Females are typically larger in size with pear-shape bodies as they mature, develop longer tails, and aren’t known to buzz. When the males buzz, it is typically at night when they are most active. African dwarf frogs are nocturnal. In the wild, they hunt for food at night and rest during the day.
Choosing The Right Aquarium For Your African Dwarf Frog
The size of your aquarium will depend on how many African dwarf frogs you would like to raise. Since they are very small frogs and only grow to a maximum of 3 inches, a 2.5-gallon aquarium is recommended for housing one African dwarf frog. A 5-gallon aquarium is recommended for housing two, and a 10- to 20-gallon aquarium is recommended for more than two. Although African dwarf frogs are fully aquatic, they have lungs and need to rise to the surface of the water frequently for air. Their webbed feet make it difficult for them to swim in deep water. Avoid placing them in aquariums that are more than 12 inches deep. If their aquarium is too deep, they will struggle to reach the top for air and drown.
Setting Up Your African Dwarf Frog Aquarium
As with all herps, maintaining a proper living environment for your African dwarf frog is key to preventing stress, disease and a shortened life. The following tips for properly setting up and maintaining their living space are highly recommended:
Maintain water temperatures between 72-78 degrees Fahrenheit. The water should be similar temperatures to the African dwarf frog’s native habitat in Africa. A submersible heater and a digital thermometer are essential for maintaining these temperatures.
Maintain PH levels between 6.5 – 7.8. These levels can be monitored regularly using PH testing kits.
Use large aquarium gravel to cover the bottom of the tank. Gravel comes in different sizes and colors. If the grains are too small, the frogs can accidentally consume it and have a difficult time digesting it. This could lead to impaction and can be fatal. Sand is another option for substrate. It is recommended that a substrate be used in any aquarium, but some African dwarf frog keepers opt out of using substrate in fear of their frogs consuming it. It is a personal choice, but substrates make it easier to secure live and artificial plant decorations in the aquarium.
Always secure the aquarium with a lid. African dwarf frogs spend their whole lives underwater and are not capable of surviving on dry land for more than 15-20 minutes. If they escape, their skin will dry out and they will not survive. Be mindful that African dwarf frogs require oxygen at the water’s surface, so it is best to use a screen lid. If you use a solid lid, make sure it remains open a crack so that your frog can access air to breathe.
Avoid the use of large filters. African dwarf frogs are very sensitive to noise and they don’t have ears. They use the lateral lines on their bodies to sense vibrations. Large filters can induce stress and sickness. These frogs also prefer motionless water, so make sure the filters don’t cause strong water currents in the aquarium. An under-gravel filter is recommended. Always check with an aquarium specialist online or in store if you are uncertain. If the aquarium is small and maintained regularly, African dwarf frogs can do just fine without one.
Provide 10-12 hours of aquarium lighting daily. African dwarf frogs are nocturnal and require a regular day and night cycle. They don’t need UVB lighting like many reptile and amphibian species do. A basic LED hood light is sufficient. Avoid placing the aquarium in a room without windows. Rooms with natural sunlight will work just fine too.
Use filtered water in the aquarium. Raw water contains harmful chemicals such as chloramine and fluoride that can be toxic to all aquatic species. If you use tap water, be sure to treat it with anti-bacterial supplements and water conditioners prior to placing the African dwarf frog back in. Avoid the use of soap to clean the aquariums. Soap can leave residue in the aquarium and make the frogs sick.
Perform water changes bi-weekly. It is best to change at least 10-25% of the water every 2-4 weeks. If a filter is not being used, then it is best to change the water at least once a week. Frogs shed and can be messy eaters. Avoid performing full water changes. This could cause stress and fatally shock African dwarf frogs.
Avoid aquarium décor that is sharp and toxic. African dwarf frogs are hunted in the wild and require places where they can hide out in such as caves or logs. African dwarf frogs do well with artificial or real plants, but plants with sharp edges can tear at the frog’s skin. Some wood décor can contain harmful toxins that increase PH levels in the water. Always check with an aquatic specialist online or in store if you’re uncertain about which decorations to use.
Foods To Feed Your African Dwarf Frog
An African dwarf frog’s diet should contain a high protein and well-balanced selection of food consisting of specialized aquatic frog sinking pellets, freeze dried bloodworms, frozen brine shrimp, daphnia, and live blackworms. African dwarf frogs have poor vision and rely on their sense of smell and touch to eat. They have no tongues or teeth to help them chew, so the food that they consume should be cut up in small pieces and fed to them in small portions.
This species is endemic to South East Asia, particularly to the Borneo island. Known to be located in the Indonesian province of Kalimantan Selatan, the Mosquito rasbora’s natural habitat consists of rivers, black water streams and swamps.
These bodies of water are usually tinted dark brown due to the tannins released from decaying organic matter like leaves, twigs and tree branches. This process gives the water an acidic property with a pH value as low as 4.0.
The fish thrives in densely vegetated areas and prefers a dimly lit environment, giving its shy behavior. In order for it to feel safe and comfortable in your home aquarium, you should try to replicate these conditions as much as possible.
Description
With its distinctive colors and pattern, the Mosquito rasbora displays an orange-red body color with a brown-black mid lateral stripe and a dark spot at the base of the caudal fin.
Behaviour
Because of its shy nature and very small size, this fish is not suitable for community tanks. You either keep it alone or with other small and peaceful fish like Strawberry rasbora or the Least rasbora.
Mosquito rasbora are a shoaling species and so it should be kept in groups of at least 10 members. Doing so will make them more comfortable in the aquarium environment.
Diet
In its natural habitat, the Mosquito rasbora is an avid micropredator, feeding on zooplankton, worms, small insects and crustaceans.
While not a picky eater, make sure to provide the Mosquito rasbora with a varied diet. Beside staple dried foods like flakes and pellets, the fish will reach its optimal form only if you feed it live food such as Tubifex, Artemia and microworms, on a regular basis.
Chopped-up bloodworms are also an option as long as the pieces are small enough for the fish to easily consume.
Feed once or twice a day and make sure the food is eaten in a short period of time, around 3-5 minutes as leftovers will usually reach the bottom and spoil the aquarium water.
Reproduction
Mosquito rasbora males are slimmer and slightly smaller than females. They also display brighter colors: dark red and black highlight on fins. This is especially observed when they’re in breeding form. They will compete with each other for female attention, becoming more aggresive and territorial. The dominant males in the group will also showcase a deeper red.
Females are bulkier and not as intensely colored. When they carry eggs you can easily notice their bellies becoming more round.
Upon reaching sexual maturity, they will lay eggs almost daily. The parents will attempt to eat the eggs if they spot them so it’s best to remove the pair once the spawning process is over.
If your goal is to keep as many fry as possible then the best approach is to separate the breeding fish into a smaller tank (10-20 liters). Add heavy vegetation to the tank. Java moss or any other kind of aquatic moss works best for this purpose.
Keep a small air-powered sponge filter to maintain water quality in the breeding tank. The temperature should be slightly higher than usual, around 27 – 28°C. If you want, you can condition the fish a couple of days prior the spawning, by feeding them quality fresh live foods.
Once the eggs are laid and fertilised, remove the adult fish from the breeding tank. After 24 hours the eggs will hatch and the fry will live off of their yolk sacs. Feed them infusoria and freshly hatched Artemia after another 24 hours.
