Tag: water

Posted on

Chicken Coop Roof & Gutter System

A gutter system for rainwater collection on a chicken coop is definitely doable. There are a few ways to approach it, depending on your material choice for the roof.

Here are a few good starting points:

  1. DIY PVC Gutter System – If you want something lightweight and easy to modify, PVC pipe split in half lengthwise can work as a small-scale gutter. There are quite a few tutorials online for using heat to shape PVC into a functional gutter.
  2. Metal or Vinyl Gutters – You can use standard aluminum or vinyl gutters from a hardware store and cut them to size. The challenge will be ensuring proper slope and securing them to the structure.
  3. Corrugated Roof Water Collection – If you go with galvanized steel sheets, you can make a simple gutter using another piece of metal bent into a U-shape or attach a pre-made gutter along the lower edge. A lot of homesteaders have shared methods on YouTube for rainwater collection from corrugated metal roofing.
  4. Rainwater Diverter & Barrel Setup – To prevent overflow, you can add a simple downspout diverter to redirect excess water once the barrel is full.

Let me do a quick search for some solid tutorials or plans. One sec! 👍

That sounds like a fantastic project! Setting up a gutter system to channel rainwater from your chicken coop’s roof into a rain barrel is both eco-friendly and practical. Here’s how you can approach this:

1. Choosing the Roof Material:

  • Translucent Vinyl Roofing: This material is lightweight and allows natural light into the coop. It’s relatively easy to work with and can be cut to size with standard tools.
  • Galvanized Steel Sheets: Durable and long-lasting, galvanized steel provides excellent protection against the elements. However, it requires proper tools for cutting and handling due to its weight and rigidity.

2. Installing the Gutter System:

Regardless of the roofing material you choose, installing a gutter system involves similar steps:

  • Measure and Plan: Determine the length of the roof edge where the gutter will be installed. Plan for a slight slope (about 1/2 inch for every 10 feet) towards the downspout to ensure proper water flow.
  • Select Gutter Material: Vinyl gutters are lightweight and easy to install, making them suitable for DIY projects. Aluminum gutters are also a good option due to their durability and resistance to rust.
  • Install Gutter Hangers: Attach gutter hangers along the fascia board of the roof, spacing them about 24 inches apart. Ensure they follow the planned slope.
  • Attach the Gutter: Cut the gutter to the required length and secure it onto the hangers. Seal any joints to prevent leaks.
  • Install the Downspout: Attach a downspout to the gutter’s endpoint, directing it towards your rain barrel. Use elbows as needed to navigate the downspout’s path.

For a visual guide on installing gutters on a metal roof, you might find this video helpful:

3. Setting Up the Rain Barrel:

  • Positioning: Place the rain barrel on a stable, elevated platform near the downspout to facilitate water flow and access.
  • Connecting the Downspout: Direct the downspout into the top of the rain barrel. Consider installing a downspout diverter to channel water into the barrel and redirect overflow away from the coop.
  • Overflow Management: Ensure the rain barrel has an overflow outlet. Attach a hose to this outlet to direct excess water away from the coop, preventing potential flooding.

For detailed instructions on installing a rain barrel, refer to this guide:

thisoldhouse.com

4. Additional Considerations:

  • Water Quality: Regularly clean the gutter and rain barrel to prevent debris buildup, which can affect water quality.
  • Safety: Secure the rain barrel to prevent tipping, especially if you have children or animals around.
  • Winter Preparation: In colder climates, consider disconnecting the rain barrel during winter to prevent freezing and potential damage.

By following these steps, you’ll create an efficient rainwater collection system for your chicken coop, promoting sustainability and providing a convenient water source for your flock.

Posted on

Chicken Coop Build Considerations

  • Nice looking
  • Tidy
  • Good Run Size
  • Solar Door
  • Safety Latch/Opener (Inside Run)
  • Landscape Mesh (1/4″ black)
  • Smart Ventilation “Double Windows”
  • Simple Chain Supports
  • Solar Implementation

  • Freeze-Proof Water
  • Natural Limbs for Roosts (eg: thick birch branches)
  • Self-Closing Hinges with Latch
  • Removeable Plexi-Glass Panes for Winter
  • 4 sq ft/chicken in coop
  • 10 sq ft/chicken in enclosed run
  • Nesting Boxes: 12″x12″; One Nest Box / 3-4 hens
  • This is a 10’x16′ coop with a 10’x16′ run.
  • Heat Plate (not lamp) in coop in winter
  • Bedding: Pine shavings
  • Bury 1/4″ hardware cloth 2′ into ground to protect from burrowing animals
  • Translucent solid roof to protect from raptors and racoons
  • Line perimeter of run and coop with pavers or large stones to help prevent digging predators
  • Use bricks to raise pellet feeder and water off ground
  • Store feed and pellets and treats in galvanized trash cans
  • Food, grit, oyster shells. Purina Layena pellets
  • Chicken Guard solar door
  • Heated water dispenser for winter (Eg: All-Season Poultry Fount)
Posted on

Rainwater Harvesting and Recirculation System for Greenhouses

Harvesting rain and groundwater for your greenhouse is environmentally friendly and efficient. Steps and considerations for harvesting rain and groundwater for our greenhouse:

1. French Drain System:

Source: Fine Gardening
  • Placement: Install the French drain system around the perimeter of the greenhouse to capture rainwater and prevent groundwater from entering.
  • Drainage Pipes: Use perforated pipes surrounded by gravel to allow water to flow into the pipes.

The optimal slope or angle for French drain collection pipes to ensure good water flow typically ranges between 1% and 2%. This slope allows water to move efficiently along the pipe without creating too much speed that could lead to erosion or an insufficient gradient that causes water to stagnate.

Here’s a brief explanation:

1% Slope: This is a gentler slope, suitable for areas with light to moderate rainfall. It ensures steady water flow but might require a longer drainage path.

2% Slope: This is a slightly steeper slope, allowing for effective drainage in areas with heavier rainfall. It provides quicker water movement but may be prone to erosion if not properly managed.

To calculate the necessary slope, divide the vertical drop (elevation change) by the horizontal distance. For example, if you have a 10-foot run and want a 1% slope, the drop would be 0.01 * 10 feet = 0.1 feet (or 1.2 inches).

Keep in mind that these are general guidelines, and the specific conditions of your site, soil type, and local rainfall patterns may influence the optimal slope for your French drain system. It’s crucial to ensure proper installation and backfilling with gravel to allow water to enter the perforated pipes effectively.

2. Collection Point:

  • Location: Choose a specific point where the drainage pipes converge and lead the water towards the greenhouse.
  • Beneath Foundation: Ensure the pipes enter the greenhouse beneath the shallow 12-inch foundation. Use proper waterproofing measures to prevent leaks.

3. Buried Cistern:

  • Material: Choose a durable, waterproof material for the cistern. Options include concrete, plastic, or fiberglass.
  • Size: Calculate the greenhouse roof’s runoff and the expected groundwater flow to determine the cistern size.
  • Filtration: Install filters to prevent debris from entering the cistern.

Calculating the size of the cistern needed for your rainwater harvesting system involves estimating the total volume of water you plan to capture and store. Here’s a general guideline to help you calculate the size of the cistern:

  1. Calculate Roof Area:
    • Determine the total catchment area of your greenhouse’s roof. Measure the length and width of the roof, and multiply these values to get the roof area in square feet or square meters.
  2. Calculate Rainfall Harvested:
    • Estimate the average annual rainfall for your location. This information is typically available from local weather stations. Convert this value to inches or millimeters.
  3. Calculate Rainwater Harvested:
    • Multiply the roof area by the average annual rainfall to get the total volume of rainwater harvested in cubic feet or cubic meters.
  4. Adjust for Efficiency:
    • Consider the efficiency of your rainwater harvesting system. Not all the rainfall will be captured and stored due to losses from evaporation, runoff, and system inefficiencies. A common efficiency factor is around 85-90%, so multiply the calculated rainwater harvested by this factor.
  5. Consider Water Usage Needs:
    • Determine your greenhouse’s water usage needs. This will depend on factors such as the type of plants, irrigation methods, and frequency of watering. Estimate the volume of water required over a certain period, such as a week or a month.
  6. Determine Cistern Size:
    • Compare the estimated rainwater harvested with your water usage needs. The cistern size should be large enough to meet your water demand during dry periods between rainfall events.

As an example calculation:

Cistern Size=(Roof Area×Average Annual Rainfall×Efficiency Factor)−Water Usage NeedsCistern Size=(Roof Area×Average Annual Rainfall×Efficiency Factor)−Water Usage Needs

Keep in mind that these are general guidelines, and it’s essential to tailor the calculation to your specific conditions and requirements. Consulting with a local water conservation or rainwater harvesting expert can provide valuable insights for your particular situation.

4. Pump System:

  • Submersible Pump: Use a submersible pump in the cistern to pump water to the catchment area. (Can use the Bellagio pump we initially got for the goldfish tank.)
  • Float Switch: Include a float switch to control the pump automatically based on the water level.

A float switch is a type of level sensor, a device used to detect the level of liquid within a tank. The switch may be used to control a pump, as an indicator, an alarm, or to control other devices. One type of float switch uses a mercury switch inside a hinged float. 

5. Catchment Feature:

  • Fountain or Shallow Pond: Choose a visually appealing catchment feature that promotes water circulation.
  • Aeration: Consider adding an aerator to prevent stagnation and improve water quality.

Such As:
AquaMiracle Pond Aeration Kit Koi Pond Aerator Pond Air Pump for Pond up to 15000 Gallons Pond Deicer All-in-One Pond Aeration System with Self-Sinking Airline Flow Control Rubber Air Diffuse: $149 (Amazon)

6. Overflow and Pressure Equilibrium:

  • Overflow Outlet: Install an overflow outlet at an appropriate height in the cistern to prevent overfilling.
    • An overflow outlet is a component in a water storage system, such as a cistern or a rainwater harvesting system, designed to prevent overfilling and potential damage. It provides a controlled pathway for excess water to exit the system once the storage capacity is reached.
    • In the context of a rainwater harvesting system with a cistern, the overflow outlet is typically positioned at a specific height within the cistern. When the water level in the cistern reaches this predetermined point, any additional water flows out through the overflow outlet.
    • Key features of an overflow outlet:
    • Prevention of Overfilling: The primary purpose of the overflow outlet is to prevent the water storage system from overfilling, which could lead to flooding, structural damage, or other issues.
    • Controlled Discharge: The overflow outlet allows for a controlled discharge of excess water. This helps avoid sudden and uncontrolled releases that could cause erosion or other problems in the surrounding area.
    • Protective Measures: Installing an overflow outlet is a protective measure to ensure the integrity and longevity of the water storage system.
    • Outlet Design: The overflow outlet can take various forms, such as a pipe or a channel, depending on the system’s design and requirements. It may discharge water to a designated safe area or drainage system.
    • When designing a rainwater harvesting system or any water storage system, it’s crucial to include an overflow outlet at an appropriate height to manage water levels effectively and prevent overflows. This feature helps maintain the stability and functionality of the entire system while avoiding potential damage to surrounding areas.
  • Pressure Relief Valve: Use a pressure relief valve to maintain pressure equilibrium and prevent damage to the system.
    • A pressure relief valve, also known as a pressure release valve or safety valve, is a critical component in various systems to protect them from excessive pressure. The valve is designed to automatically release or relieve pressure when it exceeds a predetermined set point. This helps prevent damage to the system, ensuring its safety and proper operation.
    • Key features of a pressure relief valve:
    • Set Pressure:
      • The valve is set to open and release pressure when the internal pressure of the system reaches a certain level. This predetermined pressure is known as the “set pressure” or “set point.”
    • Automatic Operation:
      • The pressure relief valve operates automatically without the need for manual intervention. When the pressure surpasses the set point, the valve opens to allow excess pressure to escape.
    • Safety Function:
      • The primary purpose of the pressure relief valve is to protect the system from potential damage caused by overpressure. This is crucial in applications where maintaining a specific pressure range is essential for the system’s integrity and safety.
    • Various Designs:
      • Pressure relief valves come in various designs, including spring-loaded, pilot-operated, and rupture disk types. Each design is suited to different applications and pressure conditions.
    • Installation Location:
      • Pressure relief valves are typically installed at strategic points in a system where pressure buildup is a concern. For example, they may be found in steam boilers, water heaters, pressure vessels, and other industrial or plumbing systems.
    • Certification Standards:
      • Pressure relief valves are often subject to industry standards and regulations. Ensuring that the valve complies with relevant standards is essential for maintaining system safety.
    • In the context of your rainwater harvesting and storage system, a pressure relief valve could be used to manage pressure within the system, especially if you are incorporating a pump. It helps prevent overpressurization, which could lead to equipment failure or damage. When designing your system, consult with professionals to determine if a pressure relief valve is necessary and the appropriate specifications for your specific setup.

7. Maintenance:

  • Regular Inspection: Periodically inspect the system for clogs, leaks, or any issues.
  • Clean Filters: Clean cistern filters and pump intake regularly to ensure efficient operation.

Additional Tips:

  • Rainwater Quality: Keep in mind the quality of rainwater; it may need additional filtration for greenhouse use.
  • Solar Power: Consider using solar-powered pumps for sustainability.
  • Professional Assistance: If needed, consult with a local engineer or landscape professional for specific design considerations.
Posted on

Water Temperature and Fish Health

It’s important to keep our aquariums within a certain temperature range to make sure the fish and other aquatic creatures we keep are happy and healthy. Too high or too low, and our aquatic pets will suffer. The temperature range that’s best for each creature depends on what part of the world they’re native to. Tropical fish, for example, do best between 75° and 80°F, goldfish and other “cold-water” species prefer temperatures below 70°F, and temperate fish can be found in habitats that overlap tropical and cold-water realms.

Fish are cold-blooded – aka ectothermic or poikilothermic – animals, meaning they cannot control their body temperature. Instead, they rely on the temperature of their environment to regulate their metabolisms and activity levels. When it’s too cold, they’re less active, their appetite is reduced and their immune systems are compromised, making them more susceptible to disease.

When it’s too warm, their metabolisms and breathing speed up, and they use more oxygen. The problem is, as water warms up it holds less oxygen, which further stresses the fish. Once again, they become more susceptible to disease, and in extreme cases, they can experience organ damage or even suffocate. Making matters worse, above 90°F, the beneficial bacteria that maintain balance in an aquarium begin to die, creating the potential for dangerous ammonia and nitrite spikes.

In the Wild

Water temperature in nature isn’t always constant. In fact, it can fluctuate quite a bit. Some days are sunny, some are cloudy. There may be seasonal changes as you get further away from the equator. Sometimes it rains, which can cool things down considerably. The water near the surface is usually quite a bit warmer than just a few feet below. And what happens when the sun goes down at night?

There are two major differences between natural habitats and our aquariums when it comes to temperature. First, fish in the wild can usually move to a more desirable spot if they don’t like the temperature. And second, temperature changes tend to occur gradually in nature due to the massive volumes of water involved, so fish have time to adapt, or move. Not so in an aquarium.

In the Aquarium

Unlike nature, where water temperature can vary in different micro-habitats, the temperature in an aquarium tends to be uniform throughout the tank. Aquarium fish can’t move from a less favorable spot to one that’s more comfortable if the temperature is outside their preferred range. In addition, temperature changes are often more extreme and happen much more rapidly in an aquarium, giving our fish less time to adapt.

Fish that are kept at the wrong temperature long-term may not grow as large, their colors may be muted, they may be less inclined to breed, and they may not live as long. A sudden drop in temperature is often linked to the onset of Ick and other parasite outbreaks.

Maintaining Proper Temperature

Now that we understand how important maintaining proper water temperature is for our fish, let’s look at how to achieve it:

  • Avoid placing your aquarium near sunny windows, exterior doorways, heating and air conditioning vents, fireplaces and drafty areas that can affect water temperature.
  • Choose a quality heater that is designed for your tank size.  (Large aquariums may require more than one heater.)  Use the Aqueon Heater Guide to select the right size heater for your aquarium.
  • Make sure there is adequate circulation around your heater to ensure even heat distribution.  (This will also prolong the life of the heater.)
  • Install an accurate thermometer and check it regularly to make sure your heater is maintaining the right temperature.
  • When performing water exchanges, match the temperature of replacement water as closely as possible to your aquarium.

Heating an aquarium is relatively straight-forward, but what happens when hot weather makes your aquarium too warm? Dialing the A/C down a few notches can be expensive, and what if you don’t have air conditioning? An easy solution is to open the tank lid and direct a fan across the water surface to create evaporative cooling.  (Lower the water level slightly to prevent fish from jumping out.)  Aquariums with cold-water fish or sensitive corals may require a chiller. For additional tips on cooling your aquarium, visit How to Keep Your Aquarium Cool in Summer Heat.

Mixing Different Fish

When stocking your aquarium, choose fish whose preferred temperature ranges match the temperature of your tank. Things can get a little tricky, however, when the upper limit of one species coincides with the lower limit of another. Trying to find a happy middle ground may stress both fish because one is always a little cold, and the other is a little warm. While they may tolerate the situation, neither of them will thrive. Always set your heater for the middle of your fishes’ preferred temperature range and choose fish that share the same temperature requirements.

Maintaining a stable temperature that matches your fishes’ needs isn’t difficult, and your fish will thank you for it!

Source: https://www.aqueon.com/